polymer ?

A general, non-powerplant specific, discussion on airboat technology, ie., hulls, rigging, polymer, etc..
RickMc
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polymer ?

Postby RickMc » Thu Dec 22, 2016 1:13 pm

I started looking into finding some polymer here in Scranton Pa. and all i've come up with in 5x10 is white. is that ok? What thickness do you guys run? I want to stay light but 1/4 in. seems thin by the time you countersink and bolt it on. It's going on a 12 ft. glass hull with a 0320 and a 4 blade warp drive. What do you guys think ?
Thanks Rick
The glass is always half full....til I get a hold of it

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Deano
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Re: polymer ?

Postby Deano » Thu Dec 22, 2016 4:26 pm

I think that you don't want to use white. Historically, compared to others, has a very poor track record.

Actually, I don't think anybody that sells and promotes polymer for airboats offers it in white anymore. Years ago when it was used, over time it would end up getting brittle, shrinking and then cracking, pretty much rendering it useless after it was aged.

I agree that 1/4" may seem thin but will say that many people use it successfully all the time. I probably should point out that I'm talking specifically about UHWM Polyethylene like is sold for airboats. Mine have 3/8 and 5/16 so I can't really share any experience or comment beyond that.

Maybe worth mentioning is that typically sheets are 80x120 and 80x160. If you really only need a 5' width, having them cut it may save you some on shipping. Alternatively, if you can't find any up there and are going to be down here later, you might entertain picking it up while you're down here, throw it in the boat and install it when you got home. Maybe shipping isn't that much, but lately it seems like it may be. :dontknow:
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SWAMPHUNTER45
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Re: polymer ?

Postby SWAMPHUNTER45 » Thu Dec 22, 2016 4:40 pm

If your not in a very extreme environment probably the best thickness you could run is 5/16 with countersunk heads. There is a tool that will drill the hole and bore the countersink it's like $50 and worth the purchase. I bought mine and the bulk stainless hardware from Diamondback but I am sure there are a large number of sources to acquire what is needed.

I would not run white poly for the reasons stated by Deano. It gets brittle fast fyi.

Scarecrow
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Re: polymer ?

Postby Scarecrow » Thu Dec 22, 2016 6:46 pm

I would be concerned about the 4 blade prop on the 4 cylinder motor because of harmonics, a friend of mine had one blow apart at cruise speed, he contacted warp drive and they sent him a new 5 blade at no charge. :rebel:

RickMc
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Location: North east PA.

Re: polymer ?

Postby RickMc » Thu Dec 22, 2016 10:09 pm

The 5 ft. width would be replacing what was there just the flat on the bottom. How well does it bend around the chines? I assume it would require heat . Mine are about 35 deg..If i can bend it that far an 80x120 would work out great . I just sent an e mail to Polymer systems I'll see what they have to say. Thanks for the time on my project Deano now I just have to figure out the rudder art. Rick
The glass is always half full....til I get a hold of it


RickMc
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Location: North east PA.

Re: polymer ?

Postby RickMc » Thu Dec 22, 2016 10:35 pm

So.... I'm sure it's been discussed to death but are there any good threads on the 4 blade vs. 4cyl Lycoming topic.
Thanks Rick
The glass is always half full....til I get a hold of it

boatair
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Re: polymer ?

Postby boatair » Fri Dec 23, 2016 5:13 am

About 20 years ago I ran a 0320 with a 4 blade warp drive and was told the same thing. I ran this set up for 3 years and logged about 600 hours of run time with no issues and also had friend with the same results. If I remember correctly we clocked the props on the crank to eliminate vibration but I don't remember where they ended up being clocked compared to tdc of #1 cylinder. Use the search on this site and you will find more info.

terrible ted
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Re: polymer ?

Postby terrible ted » Fri Dec 23, 2016 6:28 am

What's it not mentioned is it need to be hot when applied not fire hot but like hot in the sun. To me a little to uncomfortable to hold or hold your hand on. That not long hear in Florida. I ordered my last piece fright delivery. It was in a roll 6'x12'. I took a router and beveled the leading and side edges. It will conform to the hull as long as it not real sharp edges. My poly rolled slightly up the sides of the cotton mouth hull and ran most of the way up the front. Were ever the hull my encounter the ground, rocks, brush, boat ramps and or trailer when dry loading. Yes you need or will want a counter sink with a depth stopper on it so you don't put a c'sink hole in it to deep to work.

UHMW Expands when hot, you want it expanded when installed so it will pull up tight when cools. 1 bolt every 2 inch around the perimeter and about a 6 to 8 square inch pattern across the rest. Please research application and find what's best Some on hear have done it allot I have only done two.


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