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0320 questions

J

jdjensenmia

Active member
Hi everyone newbie to the web site.
Let me start off by saying this forum is great, just finished reading all the posts that may concern me in the a/c only section what a wealth of knowledge we have going on here.

I Have a 0320 lycoming conical mount narrow deck w/ 0480 angle valve chrome STD bore jugs & High Comp. Pistons (recently redone by Don George) then I installed them. Adjusted all my valves to 50-55 clearance didn't want the motor too tight or too loose. got a nice 149t flywheel and starter w/ 25deg BTDC lined up on center case face w/ #1 At TDC.

Planning on purchasing a Q-Series sensenich 68" prop, Champion Plugs, a single wire automotive style alternator, and an MA4-5 Carb.

All this is pushing a 10' 6" x 6' 6" Stainless wrapped 1/2 deck, sled w/ 48" air foil rudders that I'll be using South of the Loop and N. of the trail Two seat rear, single front driver w/ 26 GAl AV Gas fuel tank.

I gather I'll need Champion D-14 Plugs (low heat for High Comp.)? Please correct me if I'm Wrong.

With the 25 degree mark lined up on the case center and the #1 Cly. at TDC the Mark for TDC on the flywheel should be toward the right hand side of the motor (say between (12 o'clockk and 3 o'clock) looking from the prop end of the motor correct?

About how many quarts should the Sump hold? Aeroshell ashless? Or aeroshell mineral oil for break in right (1st 30 hrs)?

Can anyone tell me the distance back from the prop flange face to the backend of the hub on a Q Series Prop I left my self about 10 inches so my rudders wouldn't be far back off the boat

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go just starting to build the cage now EMT. Got about 2.5 inches of clearance between the mock up prop tip I made and the rear deck.

I guess thats enough for now. Any help will be appreciated thanks in advance john.[/img]
 
I have no idea how much distance you need with the Q prop but I'm sure someone will answer that for you. I think I've read you need to move the engine stand 7 inches forward from that of a wood prop. Not sure, so, ask someone who knows.

The 25 degree mark is to time the magnetos at 25 degrees before top dead center. When you bring the number one cylinder to top dead center make sure it is on the compression stroke. Put you thumb over the spark plug hole while pulling the prop through until the compression blows past your thumb. The number one cylinder on the Lycoming engine is the closest to the prop on the port side of the boat. If you have impulse mags be sure to pull the prop through until the impulse clicks then back it up and take the gear lash out and do the timing. Use a buzz box to finish the timing. Buy one or borrow one.

The plugs sound right for that engine. Use Aeroshell straight mineral oil for the first 50 hours for the break in of the rings. Then use Aeroshell 15-50 or Aeroshell 100 plus. The sump should hold 8 quarts not counting the oil cooler. Get a good oil cooler and use an oil temp and a cylinder temp gauge to monitor the engine. I have no idea what you mean by the valves at 50-55 but the rest sounds good. It sounds like a real nice project.
 
hey des moines boater thanks for the reply. What I meant to say was the toe clearance to the valve with the hydraulic lifter collapsed is suppose to be in a range of 28- 89 thousandths clearance the lower being tight (wear-out faster) and the higher being to loose and noisy. My thinking was to hit the middle of the road and hope for the best. Thanks for the input John
 
All right, that makes perfect sense. My book shows .028 to .080 valve rocker clearance with the hydraulic tappets collapsed. Sounds like you know what you're doing. Good luck.
 
I would set them at 18 to 20 thousands if it were me. It should idle better and rev up faster. Mags don't put out that much spark at lower RPM. I gap the plugs on my O-360 at .020 and it runs just fine.
 
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