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0320 running warm?

B

BlowinBills

Active member
Got a new boat first time playing with A.C. engines, anyhow on longer runs the temp wants to creep up. I got rid of the small oil cooler and put a Hayden 1260 on it, and new gauge. It helped a lot but still on long rides it will creep up. With the new cooler it’s up to 215 and probably would keep going. And that’s light load low rpm cruising it still creeps up. Boat is lightweight 11’ glass hull. Has Avgas in the tank too. Overall boat runs good starts good. Does get hard to start once it gets up in temp tho. Should i check timing? Or maybe a lean issue?
 
All the plugs are ab-6 except for the forward 2 jugs on the bottom they are d16. Should i start with putting all new an-6 plugs in it like i had bought for it? As for how they look i didn’t see anything crazy, the left Bank was a little lighter in color not as much black carbon as the right bank. The right wasn’t really bad though just the back bottom plug on that side was kinda wet and black
 
Put a set of D16 in it, also check timing for good measure. Run it hard with new plugs with least idle time as possible, pull plugs and insulator should read tan on plugs, if very light, it is lean.
How is oil usage?
If it is using oil, the ring lands are worn allowing combustion to superheat the oil.

Also, how is the cooler plumbed at front cover? Does it have a standard oil screen with a vernatherm in its center? If not, is the plunger and spring in the oil cooler bypass gallery?

Just did a complete overhaul on a friend's o360, originally the engine was a pull off from a water landing that seized in flight, and my friend bought it overhauled by a reputable mechanic, the engine had likely had 150 hours on it and was overheating to where oil pressure would fall off bad, upon our recent overhaul we found that whoever plumbed the aircraft had it to where oil would not be forced through the cooler although it somehow circulated enough to show latent heat, thinking all was fine, we discovered why the plane had to ditch.
Hope this helps.
 
Ok from what i see is i don’t have a vernatherm so i took the bolt out where the bypass is and i don’t see anything there. Does that man i need to locate a viscosity valve for it? If so where could i locate one?
 
Does this picture match what you have, except you are missing items 3&4?

O-320-H-Cooler-Bypass-800x580.jpg
 
Yea i think so, i took that cap bolt off and didn’t see a spring i couldn’t see down in it that well tho but i figured the spring would be right there. I’m going to look again in a few minutes
 
Here is a link to all the AV manuals on the site:
https://southernairboat.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=53847

It sounds like that diagram matches what you have, making it an O-320-HXXX model (XXX yet to be determined). Look on the oil sump for a label plate for full model code and other details.

Here is the 320-H manual link, parts and overhaul manual.
http://www.southernairboat.com/pdf/aircraftengines/lycoming/320/H2AD/

I am not real familiar with this engine, but others on here are. Looking at the diagram it does not appear this engine uses a Vernathane. The cooler bypass appears to be a relief valve that opens when oil pressure is high due to cold oil, then closes once pressure drops into the operating range. In the open position (or with the plunger and spring removed) the valve is in the by-pass mode, meaning little, if any oil flows through the cooler.

You did say you removed a "Bolt" vs. a "Plug". make sure someone didn't plug it off permanently so it never bypasses?
 
I double checked it with a light and mirror i couldn’t get my head under the seat, but the ‘bolt’ i was referring to is the #6 in the picture so yea it’s called a plug but there is nothing else in it so I’m gonna assume I’m missing that spring and detent. Ill get one coming. Do you have a good link to where i can order these things? I do have a small aircraft airport near me where i buy fuel and oil i may be able to see if they can get it. I don’t have an engine plate on mine it’s missing but I’ve ran numbers stamped on the block i do know it’s an0-320 I’m sure someone could tell more by looking at it it’s just all new to me
 
The link I gave you has 2 manuals, the overhaul manual and the parts manual. The previous diagram was from the overhaul manual. Get the parts catalog, look at figure 6, page 1-6. Item #'s 8 & 9 on that diagram. Part numbers:

Spring 69436
Plunger 62415

You will find you want to know a local used parts source, the local airport is going to be high dollar, unless they happen to have used available for some reason. There has to be a reason those parts were removed. You might need the whole block?? Advise where are you located for info on local parts.

Here is new, something like $80 for both.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/oilcooler62415.php?clickkey=142795
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/lycomingsprings_69436.php?clickkey=142792

Otherwise start Googling
https://www.ebay.com/p/Lycoming-62415/809273896
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LYCOMING-O...69436-AIRCRAFT-/113288700234?oid=113233139837
 
Thanks a lot of help here, I’ve been doing plenty of research on these things trying to figure it all out. What reason would someone remove these items for? Unless they didn’t know what they were doing?
 
does this motor have a twin Siamese mag or 2 separate mags..if has the Siamese then it's an 0320 h2ad.. I've had 2 of these motors 1 with the housing & screen & 1 with the spin on oil filter housing with a vernatherm either will work
 
that's exactly why I just had a wide deck 0360 built..had 2 h models.. don't get me wrong they are good running motors for the $ but got tired of the mag & lifter problems associated with these motors
 
Add this quote and thread to the 320-H owners required reading list:

John Fenner said:
:( Lucas will raise oil temps in any aircooled engine without a vernatherm valve, the style of oil cooler bypass in that engine is a ball and spring at rear bottom of case, the spring reacts to thick oil (cold) and allows oil to bypass the cooler mostly till oil is thin (hot) then spring seats the ball and directs more oil through the cooler.
That said, Lucas not only helps pressure boost but it also makes the designed weight of oil that spring holds back oil later, pull cap, spring and ball, install a washer behind spring if you are concerned, 200° isn't too hot to me but for your own preference do the washer (s).
Click to expand...

https://southernairboat.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=71508&p=688518&hilit=lucas#p688518

A key point here is that you add add shims to the spring to increase the bypass pressure, effectively lowering oil temp.

diamondback0320 said:
that's exactly why I just had a wide deck 0360 built..had 2 h models.. don't get me wrong they are good running motors for the $ but got tired of the mag & lifter problems associated with these motors
Click to expand...
DBO320,
Didn't you get a Pacemaker ignition installed on that 360, which resolves the mags on any motor? Are there quirks with the Siamese system vs. standard dual mags?
 
yes I went with the pacemaker ignition..the Siamese mag is very prone to ground problems & moisture.. I've had 2 different mechanics tell me thru 2 h models these mags suck & they were right..I had many issues with them thru the years..I even added a external ground from 1 of the cover screws to a good ground on the motor that did help somewhat but issues would return over very little time..spent more time cleaning mating surfaces and where the condenser grounds to the inside of the cover
 
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