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0540 breakin procedure
- Thread starter rastusair
- Start date
Duckhunter_012003
Well-known member
Never really ran the 0540 260s, I mainly ran the 0360s, 180s and the 200s, but you might try callin Ronnies Airboats, there in centerville, http://www.ronniesairboats.com
Or if no help there you might also try Scullys Aluminum Boat Works in morgan city. By the way where ya usin an airboat at up in Minden. I'm also in Louisiana, just way way down south of you.
Or if no help there you might also try Scullys Aluminum Boat Works in morgan city. By the way where ya usin an airboat at up in Minden. I'm also in Louisiana, just way way down south of you.
marshmaster pat
Well-known member
Most use mineral oil primarily for the first 40 hours ("or until oil consumption stabilizes). Most guess switch at that time over to ashless disperant oils. However, you can use mineral forever, the Japs ran it in their planes throughout WW2 to save petroleum.
Lycoming has a break in sequence mentioned in their overhaul manuel.
First run is to check for oil leaks, oil pressure, etc.. Then run at the following RPMs for either 10 or 15 minutes (will check manuel) each after warming the engine up, then let the engine cool to touch and do the next RPMs. This will supposedly help set the rings.
1200
1400
1600
1800
2000
2200
After that is says to run the first 10 hours at slightly more throttle than normally used at cruise. Minimize idling for the first 10 hours as well.
Then continue to run with mineral oil until oil consumption stabilizes or 40 hours.
I figured running airboats it typically alittle more throttle than most pilots use, but I try to stick to this. Have broken in two engines and no problems.
Two more things:
Once you switch to ashless dispersant, you are not supposed to switch back to mineral. WHY - I don't know.
DO NOT MIX THE TWO TYPES OF OIL - you will have problems. Believe me.
Lycoming has a break in sequence mentioned in their overhaul manuel.
First run is to check for oil leaks, oil pressure, etc.. Then run at the following RPMs for either 10 or 15 minutes (will check manuel) each after warming the engine up, then let the engine cool to touch and do the next RPMs. This will supposedly help set the rings.
1200
1400
1600
1800
2000
2200
After that is says to run the first 10 hours at slightly more throttle than normally used at cruise. Minimize idling for the first 10 hours as well.
Then continue to run with mineral oil until oil consumption stabilizes or 40 hours.
I figured running airboats it typically alittle more throttle than most pilots use, but I try to stick to this. Have broken in two engines and no problems.
Two more things:
Once you switch to ashless dispersant, you are not supposed to switch back to mineral. WHY - I don't know.
DO NOT MIX THE TWO TYPES OF OIL - you will have problems. Believe me.
kb27_99
Well-known member
Go light the first hour or two without idling then run it like you stole it, especially if you have chrome cylinders.
That’s my philosophy, broke in 2 0540's an a 0320 like that with no problems.
Pat, both overhaul manuals I have also have a segment in it that recommends a 1 hour wide open throttle oil consumption run, does yours have the same procedure in it?
Kevin
That’s my philosophy, broke in 2 0540's an a 0320 like that with no problems.
Pat, both overhaul manuals I have also have a segment in it that recommends a 1 hour wide open throttle oil consumption run, does yours have the same procedure in it?
Kevin
rastusair,
Modern pholosophy in the aircraft world is to break them in pretty hard to seat the rings and prevent glazing before the rings relax. I would follow your rebuilders recommendations, or contact Lycoming, or contact a reputable builder for suggestions. Some of the manuals around may be old. There are as many theories about this as there are engine owners.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/mai...ions/keyReprints/operation/engineBreakIn.html
Jim
Modern pholosophy in the aircraft world is to break them in pretty hard to seat the rings and prevent glazing before the rings relax. I would follow your rebuilders recommendations, or contact Lycoming, or contact a reputable builder for suggestions. Some of the manuals around may be old. There are as many theories about this as there are engine owners.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/mai...ions/keyReprints/operation/engineBreakIn.html
Jim
Have you received your hull and/or engine? What size engine you getting?
Had the fiberglas hull rebuilt. It was a disaster, just lookin for a place in deep water to come apart. Going to add polymer to bottom edges for strength. Deceided to keep it too.
Leaving for Alaska on 05/01. Will be back by September. You going to be ready by then? Are you still decking your hull?
Had the fiberglas hull rebuilt. It was a disaster, just lookin for a place in deep water to come apart. Going to add polymer to bottom edges for strength. Deceided to keep it too.
Leaving for Alaska on 05/01. Will be back by September. You going to be ready by then? Are you still decking your hull?