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0540 fuel pump install

Alaska viking

Active member
Well, I made the switch. Pulled the servo, spider, injectors, and pump.
Installed a new MA 4-5 carb, plugged the injector holes, and just got the new low pressure pump, (mechanical), from Jernigans.
What's the trick for getting the pump arm all the way in? Research says there is a steel rod that dropped down upon removal of the old pump, and needs to be held up in order to get the new pump all the way in.
Any tricks/advice?
 

Gary S

Well-known member
Put your finger in the hole and have someone spin prop backwards while you hold the plunger up. stop whoever is turning prop when plunger is at the top of the travel. I don't know if it's actually proper but I have used a globe of grease to hold plunger up.
 

John Fenner

Well-known member
As Gary states, the pushrod needs to be on the base circle of the cam of the gear, you can also hold finger on pushrod, bump starter over till at base circle, a small diameter long rod can hold the pushrod as you stab the pump into place as well.
 

Slidin Gator

Well-known member
Page 2 of this thread shows pictures of the inside of the accessory case, including the fuel pump drive plunger and cam.

I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors

IMG_8692-600x800.jpg


IMG_8693-600x800.jpg
 

Alaska viking

Active member
Well, after inventing a book of new cuss words, I called Steve Jernigan. The engine currently has studs for mounting the pump, rather than bolts, thus, unless physically able to hold the steel rod up, no way to wriggle the pump arm under the rod.
Studs are not standard. BOLTS are standard.
So, tomorrow we pull the studs, get proper bolts, and hope for better results.
 

Slidin Gator

Well-known member
You are talking to the right guy for sure, Steve was raised on Lycoming engines, I learn new things every time I talk to the man.

With no new posts, I'm starting to think the studs are stuck in the accessory case (not unusual). That describes time to go full Rose Bud on it, you just got to pull the motor and accessory case. Go through the thread I posted and make sure all is good when you have it out. I highly recommend the Pecks gasket kit.
 

Alaska viking

Active member
Well, after work today, I pulled the studs, and the pump went in with just a little jiggling. Steve's advice on how to jiggle was spot-on.
Then installed new fittings and re-connected the hoses, ran the booster pump to check for leaks, and all appears solid.
Will fire it up on the trailer, tomorrow. Let pipe dope set, and, as luck would have it, wind picked up, and rain tonight, so tarp stays over the cage until morning.
 
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