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6.2L Batteries

E

EastBay

Well-known member
Hello,
Need a little help here. Have 6.2L motor with two 12 volt batteries. The batteries need to be replaced. Have a Perko switch....off battery 1, battery 2 , or both. Should I get a dedicated start for #1 and a deep cycle for #2. Have LED lights and typical boat light: running red/green...white. Have like 12 LED fishing lights. Any comments appreciated!
Thank you.
Eastpoint
 
EastBay said:
Should I get a dedicated start for #1 and a deep cycle for #2.
Thank you.
Eastpoint
Click to expand...

You pretty much nailed it right there except the numbers. Get a battery rated marine Deepcycle/starting, the biggest one that will fit and wire it to #1. Get a second "Marine Cranking" battery and wire it to #2. For the cranking, go at least 650 CCA if you are weight conscious, bigger if it makes you feel better.

On a morning start throw the switch to both, crank that mother up, make sure the voltage comes up and leave it on both until your first (or second or whatever) stop. After that switch to #1 and leave it there the rest of the day/night unless you have cranking issues. If you do have issues, switch to #2, if that don't work, switch to both.

Do not worry about switching to any positions except OFF with the engine running. All other positions have at least 1 battery connected (make before break) and will not damage your engine electronics or alternator. Going to OFF while running can damage stuff.

I'm definitely a fan of Optima batteries, but they are pricey. If I had to pick one of the above I would get an Optima cranking battery and a whatever deepcycle. I have 4 reasons for this recommendation, first the Optima Deepcycle has less amp hours than most for the same size/weight. Second, I find the Optima's hold a charge for much longer than a normal wet battery. Third, let a normal cranking battery go full dead and it's time for a new one, deepcycle batteries are made to come back from the dead. Fourth, The Optima will last at least 2 of the deepcycles using this scheme.
 
Slidin Gator,
Thanks, sounds like a great way to go!
Always appreciate your comments.
New to this, but have lots of engine experience...willing to help other with questions if I can.
Thanks again!
 
Slidin Gator said:
EastBay said:
Should I get a dedicated start for #1 and a deep cycle for #2.
Thank you.
Eastpoint
Click to expand...

You pretty much nailed it right there except the numbers. Get a battery rated marine Deepcycle/starting, the biggest one that will fit and wire it to #1. Get a second "Marine Cranking" battery and wire it to #2. For the cranking, go at least 650 CCA if you are weight conscious, bigger if it makes you feel better.

On a morning start throw the switch to both, crank that mother up, make sure the voltage comes up and leave it on both until your first (or second or whatever) stop. After that switch to #1 and leave it there the rest of the day/night unless you have cranking issues. If you do have issues, switch to #2, if that don't work, switch to both.

Do not worry about switching to any positions except OFF with the engine running. All other positions have at least 1 battery connected (make before break) and will not damage your engine electronics or alternator. Going to OFF while running can damage stuff.

I'm definitely a fan of Optima batteries, but they are pricey. If I had to pick one of the above I would get an Optima cranking battery and a whatever deepcycle. I have 4 reasons for this recommendation, first the Optima Deepcycle has less amp hours than most for the same size/weight. Second, I find the Optima's hold a charge for much longer than a normal wet battery. Third, let a normal cranking battery go full dead and it's time for a new one, deepcycle batteries are made to come back from the dead. Fourth, The Optima will last at least 2 of the deepcycles using this scheme.
Click to expand...

Very good words to the wise, I never cranked on both and charged, (would always just alternate/cycle the switch from one to the other).
 
Starting and running/charging with multiple batteries connected in parallel is not an issue. Left tied together without a charge and over time (days) one battery will draw the other one down (This is why switching everything to "off" is best for storage). This scheme confirms that both batteries are in good shape and gives them a top off charge. It is good practice to shut off the engine when switching, particularly from #2 to #1. Those Perko switches can be hard to turn and I have overshot the mark hitting off, which is hard on electronics.

I had 4 batteries on old twin engine offshore rig. I ran 2 batteries on each engine using this configuration and could tie the two banks together to put 4 batteries on an engine if I wanted. I used the scheme described with a lot of electrical loads (electric reels, downriggers etc.). Every year I would buy 1 new battery and swap it with the oldest. Then I would swap the 4-year-old battery into one of my trucks. I never ran out of battery on that rig!
 
More good words of advice thanks Slidin', I was always paranoid about throwing the Perko with the engine running-never did.

And for anyone here buying batteries at Wallyworld, I learned this the hard way...
When you buy a battery there look at the date on it, (now I take every last battery off the shelf to get to the one in the very back).
If you buy a battery that has a date code, say 10/30/2021 today, Walmart has already taken 3 months off the warranty of your new battery!
Get the one in the very back and you'll usually get the battery with a date code of say 01/30/2022.
They screwed me out of 4 months of warranty like this!

Got a yellow top Optima in the daily driver but other things say budget decides, cheapest price with warranty.
 
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