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88" JW blades
- Thread starter F0zzy2
- Start date
PAINKILLER
Well-known member
I always go with area of surface of blds and my torque curve of my motor and what rpm I intend to turn the motor two of which never match the prop
Prototype
Well-known member
The gear box version is well worth the effort and I'm a S blade kind of user.
If matched in belt or as stupid as it sounds a DD or AC you might notice a smoother prop?
It does not have a snap factor like the superwides if your experienced with their snap... most aren't with pushing 10 inch carbon props!
If your twisting 5 88's anywhere near 20,, that somewhat dictates 700-900 with a 268 drive and very healthy power plant.
If matched in belt or as stupid as it sounds a DD or AC you might notice a smoother prop?
It does not have a snap factor like the superwides if your experienced with their snap... most aren't with pushing 10 inch carbon props!
If your twisting 5 88's anywhere near 20,, that somewhat dictates 700-900 with a 268 drive and very healthy power plant.
Prototype
Well-known member
If your retro fitting and Cage is close on the forward side, buy the spacer for the new hub design! The new hub of the new J's is 1-3/8" forward and either motor can now be pushed back from say a S blade hub user.
I wish I knew the new specs before but the 88jw is smoother and the torque roll is a lot less vs the S series.
If you use their specs of 2 inch clearance forward and aft and its diameter, your good!
If not?,,,,,, it's still worth having them trimmed to need or build a new cage, or do the american airboat thing with center hoops expansion clearance.
It just depends on how far a person is willing to go to clear 88's vs 82's, but I can say they cut a lot better with a ton less torque roll on the gearbox configuration than a S blade. They also out turn an 82 ngr by 10-12 pitch settings blade for blade on the 268 level!
I wish I knew the new specs before but the 88jw is smoother and the torque roll is a lot less vs the S series.
If you use their specs of 2 inch clearance forward and aft and its diameter, your good!
If not?,,,,,, it's still worth having them trimmed to need or build a new cage, or do the american airboat thing with center hoops expansion clearance.
It just depends on how far a person is willing to go to clear 88's vs 82's, but I can say they cut a lot better with a ton less torque roll on the gearbox configuration than a S blade. They also out turn an 82 ngr by 10-12 pitch settings blade for blade on the 268 level!
Prototype
Well-known member
Good,
At five 88's I think you'll be happy vs 5 S's twisting your rigging and hull all over the place. Not that S's are bad for couple decade old tech or anything? I would like to get some big Jx blades at four or more to compare but those final inches are tech not realized or refined yet for airboats!
I'm sure someone on here can post 5 S blades at 81 or 82 pitched @ 1.75 to 3.? behind a 268, but most don't push 700 plus on a public forum.
At five 88's I think you'll be happy vs 5 S's twisting your rigging and hull all over the place. Not that S's are bad for couple decade old tech or anything? I would like to get some big Jx blades at four or more to compare but those final inches are tech not realized or refined yet for airboats!
I'm sure someone on here can post 5 S blades at 81 or 82 pitched @ 1.75 to 3.? behind a 268, but most don't push 700 plus on a public forum.
Pato Sicario
Active member
I’m pushing 5 82’ JX blades, but a 2.55 box. Not exactly what you’re trying to compare, but happy to answer any questions and give feedback if you want to PM me.
Prototype
Well-known member
Pato Sicario said:
Pato,
Where do you run?
I'd love to try 5 82's jx's vs 4 jw's 88's!
Also compare blower performance to my blower shopped stocked displaced ls6.
2 or 20 on the prop seems to almost define real effeciency with proper gear and torque and fuel burn. Point and shoot aside of those factors to what actually works.
Not much on here to over effecient boats above 600hp, but tons of over powered boats and mega tons of underpowered or incorrect prop'd!
Pato Sicario
Active member
I run my boat in Utah, specifically for duck hunting.
On the dyno my engine came in at 1143 peak TQ at 4300 rpm. 1119 peak HP at 5900 rpm, 93 octane. I told the builder to focus on 5400 rpm as maximum, turning 5 JX blades and a 2.55 box at Darrin’s recommendation over at Sensenich.
My Alaska/Utah boat is prob around 4,000 lbs all in with couple of guys, gear and 50 gallons of gas. It runs dry very well. I have the blades pitched for push not speed at 20 degrees. Max speed is 60 mph at 5,000-5,100 rpm.
Keep in mind that’s at 4200 in elevation. Most things you read tell you that you lose 12-15% to that elevation. So I’ll use 13.5...using that loss my new numbers at 5,000rpm are 906HP and 957TQ.
Our hunting season has just ended. So I’ll finally get around to calling the engine builder and do a true tune at this elevation. It was tuned in Florida and set in Learn Mode so I could just turn it on and go.
There is a guy in Florida running a blue 14’ deck over. He has the exact same engine, same box and prop.
It’s a blue Hamant boat. You can find it on their Instagram page. His engine actually has a YouTube vid if you google Steve Morris airboat engine. His boat is lighter than mine and pitched for top end. He told me he gets 82-83mph.
Hope this helps
On the dyno my engine came in at 1143 peak TQ at 4300 rpm. 1119 peak HP at 5900 rpm, 93 octane. I told the builder to focus on 5400 rpm as maximum, turning 5 JX blades and a 2.55 box at Darrin’s recommendation over at Sensenich.
My Alaska/Utah boat is prob around 4,000 lbs all in with couple of guys, gear and 50 gallons of gas. It runs dry very well. I have the blades pitched for push not speed at 20 degrees. Max speed is 60 mph at 5,000-5,100 rpm.
Keep in mind that’s at 4200 in elevation. Most things you read tell you that you lose 12-15% to that elevation. So I’ll use 13.5...using that loss my new numbers at 5,000rpm are 906HP and 957TQ.
Our hunting season has just ended. So I’ll finally get around to calling the engine builder and do a true tune at this elevation. It was tuned in Florida and set in Learn Mode so I could just turn it on and go.
There is a guy in Florida running a blue 14’ deck over. He has the exact same engine, same box and prop.
It’s a blue Hamant boat. You can find it on their Instagram page. His engine actually has a YouTube vid if you google Steve Morris airboat engine. His boat is lighter than mine and pitched for top end. He told me he gets 82-83mph.
Hope this helps
Prototype
Well-known member
Pato Sicario said:
If it works, use it!
Yeah I'm not up on numbers over a small bridge crossing over 400 feet high! MSL
I do find builds to be different even at factory specs though! Motors/hulls/even rigging's, one will be better and one will be worse even robot computer built.
kwanjangnihm
Moderator
Pato Sicario said:
[youtube-video]https://youtu.be/A9ur2T65E3g[/youtube-video]
Prototype
Well-known member
Deano said:OneBFC said:My personal favorite.... :toothy7:
Those are beyond any doubt, the cleanest rudders I have never seen.
Can't post here either, without commenting on how bad ass those dyno numbers are. :thumbleft:
Its hard to post anything anymore that's real even a pic of something as useless as a rudder less airboat with no rudder mounts or steering options
Could be new but highly doubt any real steering to this pic with that setup of old school prop blades and mounts.
Not that it can't be done, but not in this pic of rudder less steering.
Hell maybe foot drag is the knew thing,, some can't steer even with old school rudders and mounts?
Could be a pic of boat that counts on ram powered drag to steer it?
Could be a pic that has no relation to the long jw blades in gear box format?
Hard to say what onebfc is thinking other than more and wider rule vs real time JW usage?
Looks often does not work even at 100K but does tend to sell?
Prototype said:Deano said:OneBFC said:My personal favorite.... :toothy7:
Those are beyond any doubt, the cleanest rudders I have never seen.
Can't post here either, without commenting on how bad ass those dyno numbers are. :thumbleft:
Its hard to post anything anymore that's real even a pic of something as useless as a rudder less airboat with no rudder mounts or steering options
Could be new but highly doubt any real steering to this pic with that setup of old school prop blades and mounts.
Not that it can't be done, but not in this pic of rudder less steering.
Hell maybe foot drag is the knew thing,, some can't steer even with old school rudders and mounts?
Could be a pic of boat that counts on ram powered drag to steer it?
Could be a pic that has no relation to the long jw blades in gear box format?
Hard to say what onebfc is thinking other than more and wider rule vs real time JW usage?
Looks often does not work even at 100K but does tend to sell?
This is one of the most confusing posts I’ve seen...