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Airboat Eyeing

A

Anonymous

Guest
Recently I was given a ride in an airboat, and now believe I may want one.
I have read a great deal on this forum, plus studied other sites as well as several Airboat Manufacturer web pages.
I quickly realized from all the stuff I've read, I don't know how to go about choosing a beginner's airboat.
My only interest in an airboat is to be able to fish in more remote areas not accessable to propboats. I usually fish alone or with one other person.
Hi speed running, or running the hill, as you guys say, is not my goal.
I believe I would be looking for something simple, dependable and forgiving to a novice. I will need to make short dry runs over small dikes.
Can something like that be found used for around $8 to 10K and not just be a nightmare of problems?
If you guys could offer me some pointers as to what to look for, it would sure help.
Thanks

 
Yep have to agree with cracker airboattrader.com and yep should find something for that money and the opinions on what kinda motor will be all over the place. I like chevrolet, as a newbie I would suggest a 350 with a stinger box (weighs less than a belt drive) with around 335 to 350 hp and an adjustable composite prop on a 13 or 14 foot hull with high sides and if you are crossing dikes I would go with polymer instaed of slick bottom.

and remember airboats dont have brakes and if you dont give it throttle it wont turn, and they sink quick if you swamp it. I hesitate to add this but you should hear it and then think on it a little ... you generally wont sink an airboat with your foot in the throttle (except turns are a grey area) no that causes real brain farts at times cause your brain says stand on it and your butt says no way.

just dont go too fast in too tight a spot for a while and get out and try things out preferably with no one else on the boat but with others around to help clean up the mistakes. and have fun
 
It pains me to say this. I’m a car motor guy thru and thru. I have owned them all, however if you have no or little airboat experience. And really don't know what you will enjoy yet. I would start out with a 220gpu or a 4 cylinder Lycoming, that’s at least a 150hp or more. For three reasons (1) their cheaper if you don’t like it you didn’t hawk the farm to buy it. Everyone starts out with a 220GPU and then upgrades so there are a lot of used ones cheap (2) Their lighter and more forgiving you can screw up pretty bad in a 220boat and not get hurt. (3) The simplicity of an air cooled motor is hard to beat for a newbee. After you accumulate seat time and have learned from your mistakes you will be ready too leave the nest then go buy a car-motor boat.
 
Hey WATER THUNDER: Yep your right I forgot Its been a long time since my corvair motor boat. There were a few 125, 180, and 220's in there also. I been drivin V8's so long I didn't even think of it I was just thinkin of keepin the power low and he would be ok. somebody slap me. LOL

so there you go NEWBIE GUEST and there are quite a few at the trader that will fit the bill just right for you. Good luck and happy airboatin
 
Thanks for the info. It will help narrow down my looking.
I will concentrate my efforts on the type you are suggesting.
Makes sense to go with an entry level boat to see if airboating fits my needs. I am a so-so fair mechanic and have read aircraft motors can be worked on only by aircraft people. That was leaning me towards a car motor boat. But I was wondering about the high RPMs it would turn and how long it would last. Also finding one that had not been run to death in my price range. Also dealing with the weight of a cooling system.
My thoughts also are leaning toward purchasing a NEW entry level type airboat. From what you are saying they are availble, but how much, and do they carry a Warranty? I would think a new one would be more trouble free?
I hesitate going to a manufacturer or sales lot with my limited knowledge. I have looked at Airboat Trader.
I believe I will continue to only ask questions until I can learn enough to feel more confident.
One more question, GPU motor? What is it?
I know what you are thinking, this guy is dumb as hell!
Thanks again
 
Hey there newbie, Welcome aboard the more the merrier. With all the bad press airboaters get it's good to get someone else on our side. That first ride on a REAL airboat is addicting, there is nothing else like it. As for asking questions, its the easiest way to find out what you don't know. The hard way is to jump in with both feet (and your wallet) and make alot of mistakes, I know I've done my share. It can be painful, expensive, and awful humbling. Now for your answer... the GPU stands for Ground Power Unit. They are manufactured by Continental and are almost like an aircraft engine, low RPM, air-cooled, magneto ignition. The main difference between aircraft and gpu is the stock gpu has only one magneto, the case is different, and the intake (carburator) is on top of the motor. Most of them started as generator power units mainly for the military. They come in 4, 6, and 8 cylinders (150, 220, 300 horsepower) They can be modified to be almost aircraft engines by adding the dual magnetos, and changing the cylinders and intake to use aircraft parts. They work great for smaller airboats, are reasonably priced, and usually don't require alot of maintenance. I hope this info has helped.
 
Ok, so I am learning.
A Ground Power Unit, or GPU is not a aircraft engine, but close. It is, or was used to power ground equipment such as a generator.
If I have this correct, the carb is on top of the engine, it is air cooled and runs on 87 octane gas. What about oil?
Lycoming, a aircraft motor has the carb underneath, uses aviation fuel, a special oil and is more expensive to buy and operate.
Both are low RPM motors compared to car motors and the prop is bolted directly to the engines, whereas the car motor must use a gear or belt reduction. to lower the prop RPMs.
GPUs and Lycoming are both used or rebuilt motors where a car motor can bought new.
Ok, now, what is the difference between a direct drive car motor and reduction gear or belt drive in terms of performance and longivity.
And finally, a car motor boat should be at least 14 ft or better and a GPU boat can be smaller due to the lighter weight of the motor?
This forum has cleared up a lot for me. Thanks to all that have helped.
Newbie Guest
 
cntry141iq you got me on the Corvair boat. I have never owned or rode one of them. I must admit I HATE 220GPU's but their hard to beat for a first boat. Plus if ya hurt the motor you can buy another one for $2500.
 
Newbie Guest":o6rnjcwo said:
Recently I was given a ride in an airboat, and now believe I may want one.
I have read a great deal on this forum, plus studied other sites as well as several Airboat Manufacturer web pages.
I quickly realized from all the stuff I've read, I don't know how to go about choosing a beginner's airboat.
My only interest in an airboat is to be able to fish in more remote areas not accessable to propboats. I usually fish alone or with one other person.
Hi speed running, or running the hill, as you guys say, is not my goal.
I believe I would be looking for something simple, dependable and forgiving to a novice. I will need to make short dry runs over small dikes.
Can something like that be found used for around $8 to 10K and not just be a nightmare of problems?
If you guys could offer me some pointers as to what to look for, it would sure help.
Thanks

Click to expand...
 
I really don’t hate them but I have owned 3 of them one was bone stock. Another had pistons and a modified intake, the third one I built a nasty stroker with Lycoming rods, cut down pistons, crane cam, fully ported heads, crank trigger ignition, gapless rings, larger valves, roller rockers and a custom intake and pan. Just like in the movie Christine when the old bastard told the kid (you know pepper you just can’t polish a terd) I learned you can’t polish a 220. I also learned the best 220 to run is motor with a fresh bore job and gapless rings utilizing a 500cfm 2 barrel Holley. Everything else just didn’t justify the work. See I weigh 300 pounds and all of my friends weigh 240 to 300. Needless to say with me and a friend on the boat I kept getting stuck and had to watch all the car motor boats burn up the hill. The stupid thing is I build race engines for cars. So I finally built a 406 and no longer get stuck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think 220’s are good for some things but they have their limitations. There’s a situation were each motor is better than any other motor for a specific application. However for 220’s that situation is defiantly not performance. But they are the best at being economical!
 
I've been airboatin' for 3 1/2 years now, all on a 12 foot Laser-like fiberglass hull with a 220 GPU. I learned to drive on this boat, and have also learned many hard lessons (or lessons the hard way). From my experience, I would recommend:

1) Buy a hull with sidewalls, like a conventional boat (I don't know the proper name for these). These boats are more forgiving when you take that turn a little too tight, or two of your buddies decide to move to the same side of the boat at the same time........

2) If you're going to be airboatin' in 'Glades like territory (shallow water, sawgrass, etc.), look for a hull that has polymer installed (I think ours has 3/8" poly on it). This will help keep the fiberglass/aluminum from getting too dinged up when you hit a stump or drive across dry land.

3) If you're going to be doing a lot of deep water (more than 5 foot deep) airboatin', look for a boat with lower seats. If you're going to be out in the 'Glades, you may want high seats. Understand that high seats makes the boat more top heavy, which I consider dangerous in deep water.

4) I would recommend a 220-GPU, for ease of maintenance and repair. When I started, I had no knowledge of engines whatsoever. However, I've changed heads, starters, flywheels, props, mags, ignition cable, carbs and other misc. items on our GPU. Before you buy, make sure you do a compression check on the engine. Our "new" GPU has about 120 PSI per cylinder (I don't know if the size of the number is as important as the fact that all cylinders should pretty much read the same). The compression check will let you know the shape of the rings and the cylinders. BTW, our "new" GPU was made in '59, overhauled in '79 and had less than 100 hours when we bought it for $1900 almost two years ago.

I wouldn't spend much more than $6500 for this boat. There are plenty of them on airboattrader.com for this price or less.

Our boat's been flipped, sunk, the original GPU threw a rod (on the cylinder I had paid someone else $560.00 to replace), but with the exception of three trips (the sinking, throwing a rod, and a plug issue) out of 300 trips, it's always brought us home.

Good luck, and enjoy what I term "a Florida dirt-bike".
 
It’s official Doc Holliday you’re an airboater. You know what they say there are two types of airboaters. Ones who have sunk their boats and ones who lie and say they haven’t
 
Yepper Water thunder dont feel bad you didnt miss a thing on a corvair boat but it was a start as they say. and if you run one you will sink it been there done that several times never hurt nothin but my pride.

well now newbie guest you should have just enough info to be totally confused dont sweat it just dont spend a fortiune on the first one and once you start the seat time your needs and wants will become clear. Then you can look for another boat that will suit you better. Be clear that you probably will never have the perfect boat you will always want somethin different. I have 436 hp and I believe 650 would be just about right hmmm what was that web site oh yeah wheelermotorsports.com well gotta go have fun and remember you gotta get off the porch to get started.
 
Newbe, Here's another opinion. From a professional guide who has owned airboats for close to 40years. If you plan to fish salt water, buy at least a 14' boat with poly.

Power for that rig can vary. Plenty of guides have found a direct drive big block Cadillac to be the katzaz. The very best are from ElDorado and they are around. These 1968 -- 1974 472 / 500 -- cubic inch motors develop gobs of stock torque at 3,000 rpm - which is max prop speed. A HEI distributor, set of rings and a steel or roller timing chain and many of these engines run airboats for years trouble free. Add a Chet Herbert or Crane cam plus freshened heads and you are hot to go.

Spring for SS rigging and engine stand if you are running salt water -- EMT if fresh will do fine.

Muddying the waters, I guess. But another viable alternative.
 
Newbie, I would agree with Big Daddy. A 500 caddy on a 14' hull is also a good beginer boat. They have enough power to get you out of trouble, and parts are usually as close as the parts store. There are plenty of guys around here running them and do very well. Also under 3000 rpm they seem to do farly well on gas. Just another opinon. Hope it helps
 
I looked at a real nice aluminum bear hull last night with tall side's a great beginner hull with a solid 220gpu on it. All cylinders were within 7lbs of cylinder pressure. Rigging was in good shape the hull was in excellent shape with new polymer and it had a nice new aluminum grass rake on it. It came with a tilt galvanized trailer that was also in great shape. It was in above condition for a used airboat. It has a wood paddle prop on it that I would replace in the near future. They guy is only asking $5,500 for it I thought it was a fair deal. What price range are you looking in.
 
Waterthunder, it sounds like a good possibility. Where are you and where was it?
 
Water Thunder - I always heard the saying was

There are two types of airboat operators, those that have sunk one and those that haven't sunk one..... yet.

And Newbie - Good luck with staying in the second group.

I like making new operators wanting to learn, put in hours in water less than 3 feet. We have some nice lakes that get nasty chop with white caps spaced closed together that scare the you know what out of people. Boat tosses back and forth if they turn sideways, but if (or when) they mess up, the boat ussually swamps. The motor and control panel both stay out of the water. Just get a mudboat to pull you to shore. Narrow bayous around here also make you stern wake huge as it has no where to go. When they let off the gas, have them look back and see that tidal wave coming at them, they realize they had better get that boat moving fast and next time slow down real slowly to let the wave get smaller.

Newbie - Another idea is to look for an enclosed back deck, Palm Beach Style hulls. They ussually knock the price up about $5,000, but they let you learn with a little less chance of sinking. Also Continental makes aircraft engines as well. 0-520s (rated at 250 hp+) and a few others from Cont. are available, but they cost quite a bit more.
 
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