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Aluminum hull refit

Marshn

Well-known member
Howdy folks,
A buddy of mine inherited an aluminum hull w/ a 180 Lycoming. The boat runs great after a little work. Biggest problem now is leaky rivets, including some under the stringers.The boat has 1/4 poly. The question is is it worth fixing each rivet or maybe getting a new hull? Suggestions? Thanks.
 
If the poly is in need of replacement, strip it off, tighten or replace rivets, roll a good coat of elastomeric roof coating on hull, replace poly or reinstall poly, a properly shaped chisel and punch in a rivet gun is best way to shear off buck tails and drive out rivets.
 
Mr. Fenner why the roof coating out of curiosity? I think I know but like to hear from experience.
 
It will seal the bottom, all riveted hulls leak in one way or another, the roof sealant wicks into the seams and rivet pockets.
 
Roger that. I was told to put steelflex on before poly to help to keep corrosion to a minimum. It came from a guy with a riveted hull. His reason was because his bottom is 6061 alloy and keep the corrosion at bay.
 
hdsadey said:
Roger that. I was told to put steelflex on before poly to help to keep corrosion to a minimum. It came from a guy with a riveted hull. His reason was because his bottom is 6061 alloy and keep the corrosion at bay.

Steelflex is a bottom coating, it does not flex as stated, the elastomeric roof coating does, 6061T6 does corrode but not as bad as 7075T6 in brackish or salt water.
 
John Fenner said:
hdsadey said:
Roger that. I was told to put steelflex on before poly to help to keep corrosion to a minimum. It came from a guy with a riveted hull. His reason was because his bottom is 6061 alloy and keep the corrosion at bay.

Steelflex is a bottom coating, it does not flex as stated, the elastomeric roof coating does, 6061T6 does corrode but not as bad as 7075T6 in brackish or salt water.


I don't disagree that elastomeric roof coating is a great flexible product but this is the first time I've ever heard that steelflex doesn't flex. I understand it definitely doesn't flex as much as elastomeric roof coating but to say steelflex doesn't flex doesn't make sense. If steelflex didn't flex it would crack off the boat of an airboat as you were running it because an airboat is constantly flexing. I can't remember off the top of my head what the flex rate is for steelflex but I know when I did read the data spec sheet many years ago it had a very good flex rate. I use steelflex on the bottom ever time I do poly and have never had an issue.
 
All of the Palm Beach Style Boat builders I know using all riveted design use Steel Flex. And also use 3M Elastokote under all of the runners during assembly.
 
SuprchgedPalmBeach said:
All of the Palm Beach Style Boat builders I know using all riveted design use Steel Flex. And also use 3M Elastokote under all of the runners during assembly.

kwanjangnihm said:
SuprchgedPalmBeach I sent you a PM.

Kwan,
Playing final jeopardy here, 3M 826 Nitrile Scotchweld would be the answer, if your question is "What Glue to Use Under Runners". 3M 1357 Neoprene would be the second choice.

I am tempted to try Permatex Ultrablack but it is hard to argue with success of the Scotchweld. I use the Ultrablack on everything buggy related and it always requires a lot of effort to get things back apart. Wayyy better than the silicone gasket makers of old.
 
Been using weldwood contact cement ever since I was trained to 35 years ago, you can knock out rivets on a boat that old and still have to pry the material apart, just redid a boat that was built prior to my employment at Don Davis' shop.
 
Fresh coat of Steelflex on my new Circle H 12x8 before the polymer goes on!
 

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Right one is an old Panhead that I am converting to a hardtail for a guy and left is one I built for myself years ago. 107 Ultima 6 speed Ultima hardtail frame custom everything else. 500 miles into it the chain came loose and ripped the rear fender down into the tire a locked it up. 12 years ago and still pissed about it. Never fixed it. Maybe one of these days!!!!
 
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