Bleeding angle valve 0540 lifters.

[Alaska viking]

I have an injected 0540 that had one jug, #4, re-built, and another, #2, replaced with a re-built jug.
I need to bleed the lifters, to check pushrod requirements.
Is there a way to bleed them without removal?
If not, what's the trick to getting them out without damaging them?

 

[Slidin Gator]

To set valve lash properly you have to bleed the lifters. You have to remove the lifters to bleed them properly. I use needle nose pliers and dental picks to get them out after removing pushrods, shrouds etc. They can be hard to pull out mainly due to oil viscosity and suction.

You need a 3/32" diameter piece of brass or aluminum rod. Push the rod into the small end of the lifter to push the check valve off it's seat and compress the spring to squeeze out the oil. Then let it suck up solvent while releasing the spring. Repeat 2-3 times to dry out the lifter.

I use the above procedure on clean equipment. If the lifters have a lot of hours or have set for a while you should disassemble the lifter to fully clean out gunk and dry versus the above.

Then, push in the brass rod and compress the spring, remove the rod. Hold the lifter to your tongue and release the spring, make sure it maintains suction.

You need a manual, my copy is too big to attach, send me a PM with contact info.

 

[Alaska viking]

Thank you. PM sent. Anything to be especially careful of when removing the lifters? I assume they can be easily damaged?

 

[Alaska viking]

Got them all out. Used a piece of .032 safety wire with about 1/8" bend, 90 degrees, in the end. Wire slipped behind the lifter, and pulled out. About 20 seconds, each!

 

[wink57]

I have an injected 0540 that had one jug, #4, re-built, and another, #2, replaced with a re-built jug.
I need to bleed the lifters, to check pushrod requirements.
Is there a way to bleed them without removal?
If not, what's the trick to getting them out without damaging them?

i here this question over and over. im not an engine builder but i can read. while reading a manual i was left wìth the impression that if the sump was empty and the spark plugs were removed? you could spin the prop which would work the rockers up and down this should pump the lifters dry. im sure it would take a few times around. so spin motor with starter ??? havent tryied it yet?? seems like it should work

 

[Alaska viking]

After doing all 12, I can tell you it is a mere drop of oil that comes out of each. Much less than what I expected.

 

[Slidin Gator]

i here this question over and over. im not an engine builder but i can read. while reading a manual i was left wìth the impression that if the sump was empty and the spark plugs were removed? you could spin the prop which would work the rockers up and down this should pump the lifters dry. im sure it would take a few times around. so spin motor with starter ??? havent tryied it yet?? seems like it should work

I would be interested in the manual details where you got that impression from

I do know for a fact that if you put all 12 lifters in With oil in the sump, and then set the lash 1 by 1 while turning the prop by hand, the setting will get progressively worse since hand propping keeps pumping them up.

After doing all 12, I can tell you it is a mere drop of oil that comes out of each. Much less than what I expected.

That's about right, just a squirt. Make sure the check valve holds a vacuum, if it does put em back in. Make sure exhaust and intake rockers go on right, they are different.

 

[Alaska viking]

Well, re-fired, and, while less smoke, still smoke.
Less clicking, but still clicking.
Appears the #2 exhaust valve rod is too long, so ordering an adjustable in the morning.
The good news is, I can now remove the valve cover, rocker pin cover, rocker pin, rocker arm, pushrod, pushrod shroud, rod cap, lifter, bleed the lifter, and be waiting for a new pushrod, in just under 8 minutes.

 

[GILLO]

To set valve lash properly you have to bleed the lifters. You have to remove the lifters to bleed them properly. I use needle nose pliers and dental picks to get them out after removing pushrods, shrouds etc. They can be hard to pull out mainly due to oil viscosity and suction.

You need a 3/32" diameter piece of brass or aluminum rod. Push the rod into the small end of the lifter to push the check valve off it's seat and compress the spring to squeeze out the oil. Then let it suck up solvent while releasing the spring. Repeat 2-3 times to dry out the lifter.

I use the above procedure on clean equipment. If the lifters have a lot of hours or have set for a while you should disassemble the lifter to fully clean out gunk and dry versus the above.

Then, push in the brass rod and compress the spring, remove the rod. Hold the lifter to your tongue and release the spring, make sure it maintains suction.

You need a manual, my copy is too big to attach, send me a PM with contact info.

A magnet works very well also pull them out very slowly

 

[Slidin Gator]

A magnet works very well also pull them out very slowly

Absolutely DO NOT do this.

Gillo, download the repair manual from this forum and read up please.