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Boat bouncing
- Thread starter stangman
- Start date
Hello I just put up the last post regarding Porpoise, I don't think this is what I'm looking for. The boat just bounces and smacks the water once on plane any ideas what I'm doing wrong gets pretty bumpy. Thanks againHomesteadSlide
Well-known member
You're not doing anything wrong. A lot of boats hop unfortunately, bottoms can be set incorrectly, boats that have wrecked will change the way they ride, engine stand placement comes into effect at times. Do you have pics of the boat or a good description, whats on the bottom, motor, hull material and size. There is only one way to really fix a hopping boat, but there are a few bandaids that you can try to use for the issue. The best person to speak with on here about this issue is John Fenner.
HomesteadSlide
Well-known member
I just saw your previous post that John commented on, see if you can't strike up a conversation with him if you've already read all threads about the issue.
Deano
Well-known member
It is preferable to contain questions about the same subject to a single thread. Most people will not read the whole board before they post a response and can miss half of what has already been said. It only creates confusion and makes it difficult to follow along when one subject matter is spanning multiple threads.
Did you read the response linked in the other thread you started? You seem to be outlining the same issue that is addressed at that link.
IF the bottom is straight and lacking any deformities, lowering the rear of the engine should minimize if not alleviate that problem.
If it does not, then you need to determine where the bottom is NOT straight; then you will know where to focus your attention.
There can be other issues (and is where searching will help you), but generally, if the bottom is straight and the engine is properly trimmed, that will address a porpoising issue the radical bulk of the time.
Putting your location in your profile will only benefit you. A pair of more experienced eyes might just immediately identify what is wrong.
Did you read the response linked in the other thread you started? You seem to be outlining the same issue that is addressed at that link.
IF the bottom is straight and lacking any deformities, lowering the rear of the engine should minimize if not alleviate that problem.
If it does not, then you need to determine where the bottom is NOT straight; then you will know where to focus your attention.
There can be other issues (and is where searching will help you), but generally, if the bottom is straight and the engine is properly trimmed, that will address a porpoising issue the radical bulk of the time.
Putting your location in your profile will only benefit you. A pair of more experienced eyes might just immediately identify what is wrong.
Sorry for posting another thread about the same thing, I didn't realize it messes things up. The boat is a Stump Jumper 12ft fiberglass with a 220 gpu engine and a slick bottom, the bottom of the boat looks straight with no signs of ever being wrecked. I'm outside of Lake Wales FL I'll try to get a few pictures on here. The boat still looks factory built and has been taken well care of for a 2001. I'll try to get in touch with John Fenner on this forum
John Fenner
Well-known member
Ok, I guess I've been summoned, I read both posts, slide boat off of trailer about half way safely shoring rear with jackstands, using a straight edge from transom edge forward across the bottom in increments, where you find any rocking is your hop, from transom lip forward shall be dead flat with zero rocking, not knowing how the slick bottom was applied, or what type it is, if you can contact previous owner would help out.
Knowing what is on there is key to recoat after this procedure, done this many times to cure chattering step hulls as well most think I'm nuts doing this but it works well, drive around and locate a dead flat section of road, concrete is preferred "rest stops are usually concrete and flat and not too congested" ok, now, tow boat to location, have boat off trailer on flat surface, use winch to snug hull up to it, elevate nose slightly to where you have a very slight gap about 4' from transom, using tow vehicle, gently drag boat across the concrete, it takes a bit, baby steps, may take a few trys, just picture a large flat piece of sand paper that you are honing the bottom with, as stated, may take a few trys, recoat wear spots, build up un worn areas with slick, repeat the same procedure, it will ride free and flat.
Knowing what is on there is key to recoat after this procedure, done this many times to cure chattering step hulls as well most think I'm nuts doing this but it works well, drive around and locate a dead flat section of road, concrete is preferred "rest stops are usually concrete and flat and not too congested" ok, now, tow boat to location, have boat off trailer on flat surface, use winch to snug hull up to it, elevate nose slightly to where you have a very slight gap about 4' from transom, using tow vehicle, gently drag boat across the concrete, it takes a bit, baby steps, may take a few trys, just picture a large flat piece of sand paper that you are honing the bottom with, as stated, may take a few trys, recoat wear spots, build up un worn areas with slick, repeat the same procedure, it will ride free and flat.
Thanks John Fenner,
I have no way of contacting the original seller. The boat is red with a tan color semi rough slick bottom I assume that's what a slick bottom is.I did notice some small red spots on the bottom when I unloaded it. I have to unload and load it on grass when I winch it back on the trailer could it be damaging the coating. I'll put it on the trailer and do as you suggest and let you know. Thank you.
I have no way of contacting the original seller. The boat is red with a tan color semi rough slick bottom I assume that's what a slick bottom is.I did notice some small red spots on the bottom when I unloaded it. I have to unload and load it on grass when I winch it back on the trailer could it be damaging the coating. I'll put it on the trailer and do as you suggest and let you know. Thank you.
HomesteadSlide
Well-known member
There is the exact reason many people seek John for advice! Keep us updated on what you find, the more info out there from different boats, the better we can all make adjustments if needed in the future.
John Fenner
Well-known member
Remove rigging from hull "I do it as one unit" flip hull upside-down, get a belt sander, get coarsest belts for it, remove all remaining slick coating from hull, clean bottom with ZEP degreaser the purple colored stuff, rinse, repeat, allow hull to bake in the sun and fully dry, get a telescopic handle, a heavy duty roller, short nap roller covers, call Fasco epoxies in Ft Pierce, order 2 gallons of 9XN, a gallon of 9X2000 Superslick, 4 ounce jar of Red pigment that will match the hull color, get a jar of black pigment for the super slick if you want the different color for the slick coat.
Now, once you have all supplies, masking tape, gallon- plus mixing buckets, drill driven paint mixer, have hull prepped, clean, masked off and in direct sunlight, have roller ready.
In the 9X neutral containers, put 2 oz red pigment each, mix with paint mixer till full color in each, close one till later, dump the open container into mixing bucket, once emptied fully, add the 2nd part "the clear liquid" to the mixing bucket, mix till full color is achieved, "avoid raw parts of unmixed epoxy on rim of bucket" once mixed, full sun, dry day, pour mixed gallon from rear forward up center to where hull starts to ramp and set bucket upside down to drain, grab that extended roller, start spreading and rolling it out, full even coverage, side to side fore and aft, once near bucket, remove it, swirl roller around to blend any unmixed and continue till full coat achieved, slow and easy rolling from bow to transom nonstop in overlapping rows lifting off at transom each pass, let it bake in sun, it will lay out like glass.
When doing this, you have to hustle, no beer break or it will light off, pull masking tape off about 10 minutes after rolling done "or it will never come off" let it bake and cure. Have a beer, watch paint dry, lol!
Ok, reassemble boat "preferred" repeat the planing "not much" on the concrete, observing wear spots and unworn spots, the 2nd gallon comes into play here, "no need to flip hull, work under off trailer" note all unworn spots, add equally mixed parts say 1/4 gallon of the 9X red into bucket, cover wear spots lightly and unworn spots heavy "mainly at transom forward" allow to cure fully, repeat planing, recoat, allow cure again, test drive it, if it rides right "as it will" pull rigging, flip hull, sand the 9X with 80 grit, mask off, apply the super slick, only 1/2 gallon, same application as above, sun cured, will be a fine riding boat.
Now, once you have all supplies, masking tape, gallon- plus mixing buckets, drill driven paint mixer, have hull prepped, clean, masked off and in direct sunlight, have roller ready.
In the 9X neutral containers, put 2 oz red pigment each, mix with paint mixer till full color in each, close one till later, dump the open container into mixing bucket, once emptied fully, add the 2nd part "the clear liquid" to the mixing bucket, mix till full color is achieved, "avoid raw parts of unmixed epoxy on rim of bucket" once mixed, full sun, dry day, pour mixed gallon from rear forward up center to where hull starts to ramp and set bucket upside down to drain, grab that extended roller, start spreading and rolling it out, full even coverage, side to side fore and aft, once near bucket, remove it, swirl roller around to blend any unmixed and continue till full coat achieved, slow and easy rolling from bow to transom nonstop in overlapping rows lifting off at transom each pass, let it bake in sun, it will lay out like glass.
When doing this, you have to hustle, no beer break or it will light off, pull masking tape off about 10 minutes after rolling done "or it will never come off" let it bake and cure. Have a beer, watch paint dry, lol!
Ok, reassemble boat "preferred" repeat the planing "not much" on the concrete, observing wear spots and unworn spots, the 2nd gallon comes into play here, "no need to flip hull, work under off trailer" note all unworn spots, add equally mixed parts say 1/4 gallon of the 9X red into bucket, cover wear spots lightly and unworn spots heavy "mainly at transom forward" allow to cure fully, repeat planing, recoat, allow cure again, test drive it, if it rides right "as it will" pull rigging, flip hull, sand the 9X with 80 grit, mask off, apply the super slick, only 1/2 gallon, same application as above, sun cured, will be a fine riding boat.
HomesteadSlide
Well-known member
stangman said:
Not when you're rolling the slick bottom on, it will run.
John Fenner
Well-known member
Use chain fall to raise rigging off of boat
John Fenner
Well-known member
Looking at pictures, I figured you did already.
John Fenner
Well-known member
I would plane it before disassembly, use chain fall raise full rigging from hull, set hull on ground, set rigging on trailer to make it moveable, not bothering me at all, I enjoy passing knowledge along.