Building first engine stand

[mudcrazzy]

Good morning gang,
New to this group as after running mud boats and jets for 30 years my 61 year ole ass is tired of pushing boats
Anyway to the point, I got a project boat 13’6” glass
Hb. It has cracking conduit on engine stand but seat rig is good, bottom rail is bad, I plan to put new angle on bottom all the way through and come off that with new engine stand
Carpenter by trade and can weld. Ahh some. so am sure I can get engine set level, plumb, square etc
Now plan on sq tube 1” corners 3/4” cross. Question after all this jiberish “how thick do u recommend for tube walls?
Thanks in advance and thanks for having me moderator
Denny

 

[Gary S]

1/8 is thicker than than the conduit stand.

 

[SuprchgedPalmBeach]

1/8" square tube-1" uprights & top connecting beams, 3/4" for cross bracing.

 

[Slidin Gator]

Conduit is great for the rigging (cage and seat stands), but it is too light for the engine stand. My engine stand is 1-1/2" SQ main uprights and top connecting beam, 1" Sq everywhere else (diagonals etc.). A bit overkill perhaps, but no issues after 30 years. You can go thinner than 1/8" with the larger size, depends on what you are comfortable welding and what engine is getting mounted.

 

[John Fenner]

I use 1x1x.065" square, be sure all intersections of the cross bracing end up to the mounts or pad.

 

[mudcrazzy]

Thanks guys,
THis is a very helpful site
Denny

 

[One Eyed Gator]

If you end up using any conduit make sure the area in well ventilated.

Also if you are using mild steel check the price of Stainless 304 mill finish is not very much more will last a lot longer.

I use the same as John 1" Sq x.065"

 

[Gary S]

Mild steel is a whole lot more forgiving.