• If you log in, the ads disappear in the forum and gallery. If you need help logging in or getting registered, send request to: webmaster@southernairboat.com

CAD GUYS

F

fatboy0054

Well-known member
WHAT KIND OF MOTOR MOUNTS ARE YALL USING ! ON MY SECOND SET ! BROKE THE RIVETS OUT OF ONE ! LEFT SIDE SMASHING DOWN (PROP TORQUE)! GUESS I WILL MAKE SOME DONT WANT SOLID !IF I CAN HELP IT ! THANKS GUYS ! :dontknow:
 
I run DD 500 and have fabricated steel solid mounts with a bolt thru all. Rubber in back but will be changing to an automotive type suspension bushings in spring. (hopefully) No problems yet with cracks or bending.
 
Airboa2304.jpg




Here is a motor mount from airboat trader. Don't know if this helps.
 
I have factor mounts, but we welded like a U clamp around it to make it more soild.

I have yet to find anyone to make a soild mount that you can purchase.
 
you could have solid mounts machined at a local shop (good shop) but those that Boblee74 pictured are just flat bar cut and welded with holes drilled out and would not e that hard to make yourself just take a little time
 
fatboy, About a month ago swampjet showed me a set of real beefy mounts that were custom made for swamp buggy's. He is having some made up for airboats. They looked alot stronger than what I am using, and I have not had a problem with mine. Maybe he will come up here and tell us how to get them. Or try calling him @ 352-400-5153 his name is Bob. Maybe he will post a pic. they really are nice looking mounts.
 
THANK YALL ! GOT SOME BEING MADE NOW ALMOST LIKE THE PICTURE BUT SHORTER !! FOR A LITTLE BUSHING TO KEEP IT FROM BEING SOLID ! I SMASH ANOTHER ONE THIS WEEK END ! I AM GETTING TIRED OF MAKING EVERTHING FOR MY BOAT BUT COOL !THE PROP TORQUE IS GETTING THE PASS REAR AND THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT ! :D
 
The torque from a reducted Cad is killer on the metal works. I have installed gussets and everything else possible and have to weld up cracks in the tubing on a regular basis.
 
I'm planning a new rerig and more than likely going stainless this go around. The current metal works was originally built for a direct drive Caddy so it is seeing much more torque with the reduction.
 
Just think a year ago every Caddy guy I ever meet said don't ever run more then 1.7 reduction. Then a few went to 2to1 and then a few went to 2.38. Not much longer they will be running 2.68's also!
 
Ok... for us guys with no money and who need to start budgeting for the reduction unit. What is the "Bare Minimum" modifications needed to be done on a stock 500 Caddy for it to use a 2.38 or even 2.68 gear box. I don't want the most powerfull think out but want dependable close to stock power.
 
BALANCE AND ROCKER ARMS ! IF ITS TOGATHER ALREADY ! ROCKER ARMS A MUST ! AFTER MARKET BALANCER IS NICE BUT ITS WHO YOU ASK ! :D MAYBE POTTER WILL CHIME IN ! :D
 
some good shaft rockers and valve springs the weak ones they put on a caddy will float and you will go cam grinding or piston slapping one or the other or both.
 
speaking of valve springs, is anybody running those beehive style comps ???
was thinking of getting a set for the caddy ( potters got them) but at under 5k is it still a good spring , having less weight and tension etc.??
 
i was going to run em but couldn't get ahold of potter so i went another route.the design was supposed to enable higher rpm with out the chance of valve float.just watch install height or spring pressure will kill your cam.also i guess it would depend on if you were going to run heavier than stock valves.they do look cool though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top