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Caddy Temperature Problem Solved....I hope

Capt Ken

Member
Got the check book out and went for broke. Bought a monster radiator. Ran the boat last Friday and did not get 200 degrees. On the way back to the ramp I pushed it hard. No problem. Thanks for all the help. :D
 
I haven't followed this thread closely to see if this has already been mentioned but I was wondering if you are running an oil cooler? I have read in other posts, not related to this topic, that higher rpms can also require larger capacity oil pans. An oil cooler and/or larger capacity oil pan could improve operating temps. All the caddy/belt drive combos I personally know do run oil coolers.

JD
 
I make sure my motors run between 150 to 170 Deg anything above that tends to have problems when you run them hard as in 20 minutes to an hour of running thru woods. Motors that start at 180 or more tend to overheat when you run dry or run em hard. I also try to have an oil capacity of at least 8 quarts. I have yet to run an oil cooler on a car motor boat because I haven’t needed one yet. On a barge or tour boat I could see the need for an oil cooler. When a boat gets that heavy or big the motor is constantly under a load just to remain on a plane so an oil cooler would be a good idea. You want your oil temp to be within 30 degrees of your water so if your water is around 160 you don’t need an oil cooler.
 
Sorry about my response time. I travel a lot so it may take a few days for me to reply. The old radiator was a Griffin 2 core / 4 core equivalent, aluminum radiator. The new one is a Griffin 4 core. I need to get exact measurements, but the new one is a least 1.5 time the physical size as the old radiator. As far as oil cooling goes. That was next on the list. I don't have any external cooling as yet. Probably will add that soon. I tried hard to make the engine run over 200 degrees. Rough water, head wind and on/off the plane in a narrow winding creek. Stayed under 200. In fact, stayed around 185 until I really started playing. Manged to get maybe 195-198.
 
Capt. ken,

That is HOT for an airboat engine. Have you cored your thermostat? Or, checked for a blown head gasket / cracked head?

Never heard of a Cadi running that hot on an airboat.
 
hey big daddy i run a stock thermostat on my caddy which is 195deg.
and my temp usally stays at 200deg. i thought cooler was better but
after talking with richard potter of cadillac performance parts,and al
from mts.they said these were the temps i need to have my caddy more fuel efficeint
 
I am no Cadi expert - have never owned one. But, quite a few of the guides I work with run them for fishing charters and airboating pleasure. Several have experienced mishaps of minor degrees that have resulted in blown head gaskets and cracked heads as a direct result of overheating and not getting it shut down quick enough. There is precious little time from 195 to destruction, it would seem. Not trying to be a know-it-all, that's for sure.
 
i wasn't talking trash atcha bigdaddy just saying that captain ken is probably ok.now if i were running an alluminum motor or a cast block
that was not high in nickel,then 165-180 is where i'd be.
 
Bigdaddy,
The stock pistons will crack if overheated. They crack on the skirts. Aftermarket hold up better. The problem with headgaskets, from what I hear, is running high compression pistons 10-1 and over. Also the heads getting warpped from overheating.
Also I run a 2 core with a 180 deg. thermostat, it runs 190 in cruise and will hit 195 after hard running on ground. Never anything above that.
We'll see you at the FAA meeting.
I know
A
I
R

B
O
A
T
Lets see who pays at the pump!
 
Yea, Yea, Yea - OK, I'll stick to my own business.

Truth is I run an 0-540 because they burn AvGas 100 and it is an aphrodisiac to redneck women. So, go burn your pimp gas. I'll burn the golden nectar. I just love swamp perfume :lol:
 
Bigdaddy,
After years in aviation I do admit that 100LL smells better than car gas when burnt.
I average 5.7 gallons per hour and have a 30 gallon tank. What do you do and how big is your tank? Most aircraft boats I see have 50 gallon tanks. At $4.00 plus a gallon. I would like to have a 540, but with fuel prices, I'll stick to the car engine.
 
Don't know if you know J.W. Ward, Stumpjumper Airboats, but he says 195-200 is ok for my engine. Several other "engine" people have agreed with this temp. However, I need more information on this redneck women aphrodisiac. Do you think if I bought a gallon of avgas and just had it on board would work? Just a thought. :?:
 
J. W. Ward knows plenty and builds the best ss metalworks I have ever seen. Really wish we saw and heard more from him. He could teach each of us a bunch.

My fuel consumption is very reasonable. Strait valve 260 with many hours on it. Never had a jug off while I have owned it. I run a 40 gallon tank on the new hull purely for possible future disaster airboat response work. My average fuel use for typical stop / start / wet / damp / dry Kissimmee running is about 4 gallons an hour with my substantial foundation and two others on board.

As to the aphrodisical powers of burnt LL100, the fumes must be inhaled (sorry, Slick Willie, I know you never inhaled) to be effective. There is a secret formula. Guess when you are running long enough behind an 0-540 - as most car boats usually do :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: , it might work. :D :D :D.

Forgive me Lord, I could not help myself. :p :p :p
 
Add a little castor oil (to the oil or gas!!) and they will be jumping in the boat!!

Jim :roll: :roll:
 
Jim,
I hope you are talking about the swamp ladies jumping in the boat.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
I'll take a 55 gallon drum.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
 
I have never seen a car motor airboat that starts under 160 blow a head gasket or go into detonation. 70% of my motors are 10.5 to one compression and up. I have 16ft boats running 11to1 they don't detonate either. Every car motor boat I have seen that runs dry that starts at 180 or higher I have seen over heat and blow a head gasket. You can run at 180 or even 190 but you can't run them hard for long.
 
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