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Calling all Caddi's, info needed.........

L

lil_armond

Well-known member
Guys I need a little help, I'm not very knowledgeable about Caddi set up's but I am in the process of helping my friend build a new rig. We are in the process of going from 13' glass hull DD 500 to a 15 x 7 aluminum reduction rig. I know their are some quirks with the Caddi as far as going with reduction such as mounting the unit and also what type of reduction ratio is best for a 500 Caddi. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Oh yeah; :D the reduction unit he is in the process of rebuilding is a CH2 belt drive I think it is 1.7:1 is this what he needs or can he go 2:1?

Also he is aquiring a 4 blade PS prop to go on this set up.
 
You should read some of "waterthunder"'s posts.He seems to know alot

about that. I asked him almost the same question two days ago and he

said 2.38:1 and a 78" 3 blade wide blade Sensenich prop.
 
THere are quite a few posts regarding caddy's on this site but I can share some of my experiences. I went from a direct drive 500 caddy on a 13' hull to a direct drive 15 X 7.5 Alumitech AGI. I toyed around with the caddy changing heads, raised compression to about 12.5:1, props, etc. Well about $10,000 later I decided reduction was the best way to go and changed over to a 2:1 reduction. 1.774:1 belt or 2:1 or even higher is fine as long as you choose the right prop combination and try to keep the rpms under 4500 utilizing prop pitch. I recommend changing the factory rocker setup and spend the $$$ on a shaft system. Cadillac Performance posts on here and is the best information and parts source for Caddy's in my opinion. You will see there are some impressive Caddy's out there but they're not that common on reducted airboats. Personally, I love mine and dollar for dollar they are hard to beat on power. Just my $.04 (inflation)! PM me and I can go into great detail on the caddy's.
 
with a caddy motor they are great motors and if you just change the rocker system they are pretty bullet proof if you stay below 5000rpm.if you just want a motor cheap without alot of mods rockers are a must to change and a good timing gear then stick 0n a 2.0 or 2.38 and watch out.but if he is getting a four blade go 2.3.jmo
 
On my LS1 boat in ride mode I only turn a max 5,000RPM with a 2.68 and if he does run a 2.38 he may need a four blade. However I beleive but I hate to recomend this with out testing it first is a three blade Q series ultra wide. That would make a beast of a boat.
 
I have ran this prop on lot's of my motors and love it however not on a Caddy yet. I have sold a 2.38 to a Caddy guy KJC but I haven't heard back how it run's. On a Caddy I bet a 2.38 with a 76'' Q series ultra wide is a home run. You better have either a light boat or a wide boat because this much thrust will torque roll a heavy or narrow boat.
 
Water Thunder

I got all the parts and decided to go a little different route. I have a 500 Caddy engine coming a Monday week. It has all the bells and whistles already done to it. Upgraded zero decked, rods, rockers, heads, intake, pistons, ignition, carburetor etc.. I can’t wait to put it all together and try it. I will let ya’ll know how it does. The prop I have is a Sensenich K series 78� three blade not the Q. I think the K is 12� wide and the Q is 10 ½� wide.
 
THEY ARE RITE ! ROCKER ARMS A MUST ! DONT CARE FOR THE RATIO !NOTHING LESS THAN 2.3 OR 2.68 ! I WOULD REALLY LIKE TO SEE A GEAR DRIVE ! IF HE REBUILDS THAT BELT DRIVE LIKE HE SHOULD ! HE CAN BUY A BOX ! CHEAPER, LIGHTER NOTHING BUT A OIL CHANGE !AND IF ITS DD GOING TO A BOX ! PRETTY SIMPLE ! JUST TOO LITTLE MOUNTS AND BANG YOU ARE THERE ! :D
 
i think if he goes belt drive hes in for some crazy roll.....why not gear reduction ?? eliminate that torq roll ??

sounds like our caddy reduction crew is growin !! gonna have some big powerhouses cruizin around soon........not as flyweight as the thunder fleet, but we'll all be havin fun swingin monster props !!!
 
Hey guys, I just got my buddy a deal. I found him a 2.09:1 stinger gear box with a 4 blade 78" P/S prop for $3k. We found out how much eaiser it is to use a gear box compared to a belt drive with the adaption work. I think the guy is going to give him two options; he can take the 4 blade or he will get him a 3 blade hub and he will have an extra blade for a spare.

I think if were my boat I would go with the 4 blade so in the event that you ever sling a blade you can pull the opposite blade out and limp home on 2.

Also we have after market rocker arms and a couple other upgrades so she ought to hold up well. But if any body could tell me about the Caddi shaft issues when using a gear box I would appreciate it.
 
WELL WHERE DID YOU GET FIRST ! AND THEN WE WILL BE ABLE TO TELL YA !!YOU GOT TO GET THE SPACING RITE , SO THE TIP RIDES RIGHT ! AND BEFORE YOU PUT YOUR HEADS ON MAKE SURE YOUR PUSH ROD HOLES ARE LONG ENOUGHT ! SIMPLE FIX SORT OF A MARK UP PROCESS !THEY WILL HIT ON ALL AFTER MARKET STUFF ! NEED SRPINGS !STOCK ONE ONLY GOOD FOR 3800 ! :D TELL US WHAT YALL SHOOTING FOR ! :D AND WHAT YOU GOT ! UPGRADES THAT IS !
 
jmo, but i don't think you will be happy with a four blade with that gearbox ratio when it is all said and done i would say three blade but that is my opinion.maybe mudpuppy can chime in here he runs a caddy w/2.38 and a 4 blade 76inch stumpuller he may be able to give an idea of performance.ruagatr can give an idea too he ran a four blade w/2.38.last part of my post i removed sorry ruagatr.
 
My engine is not a Potter engine, but I bought some parts from him. I built it. I ran a 4 blade Powershift powerplus w/a 2.08 k-way. It was excellent. Then I replaced that with a 2.38 Rotator. It is even better. I then sold the 4 blade powershift and bought the new superwide sensenich 3 blade. I am now going to get the 2.68 Rotator. I thinkl IF you have at least 500 horsepower, you will love the four blade. And if not, you wont. Charles
 
Hope you do plenty of research before you jump into this project.

I have a Cadi built by one of the most respected names in the business. It is very powerfull. I run a 1.77-1 Stinger and a 78" three blade Power Shift Falcon Series on a '16 Laser with seating for five. It will go most anywhere. But, overheating is a problem. I moved the radiator closer to the prop, installed an oil cooler and went to 16PSI radiator cap.

Thelast time I ran, she ran cool all day. It had rained most all day, and the boat was not very loaded. The time before, with four adults, 40 gals. of fuel and 90 degree weather, it was on the verge of 200 degrees. My engine builder says thats to hot.

As for mounting the motor. J. W. of Stump Jumper built my rigging. He makes the fronts so you can use standard automotive mounts, and the rear is typical that mounts to the drive unit.

Do your research and talk to Potter Automotive, and Buddy Branch you build that Cadi.

Good luck
 
hey capt catfish you could always do the head cooling system that potter sells that brings the temp down quite well from what some of the caddy guys say.but you would have to yank the heads to tap them.
 
CAPT ! GOT ANY WAY OF GETTING HOLD OF BUDDY ! THEY SAID HE MOVED ! HAD HIS NUMBER BUT MISPLACE IT ! ANY HELP IS FINE THANKS! :D
 
My Caddy runs anywhere from 180 to 210 depending on loading and air temp with or without a thermostat. I've been running it at that temp without any problems and have run the entire main trail through Gardner's Marsh dry without it climbing over 210. The stock temp light in the old caddy cars didn't light up until 240 degrees.
 
Catfish: With all due respect, 200 is about perfect. The factory thermostat for that engine is 195 and it sounds like yours is running right there. You do not have to take the heads off to put potters head cooling kit on--just drill and tap with the water jacket empty and use a shopvac....works perfectly. The higher the ratio, and the more pitch, the Cadillac loves it. This is my 32nd year running Cadillacs in airboats. Charles
 
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