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chevy 327
- Thread starter FLrooter
- Start date
Well not trying to sound like a smart ..s but if that is what you have well then run it. It would not be my first 5 or 6 choices but anything is better than sitting and watching. Where do you want to run ?? hopefully only in water. If your insisting on DD then keep looking for a 455 or a caddi and be gathering stuff for the swap.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Now Cntry, the man said he had a 327. Sounds OK to me. That ain't exactly a 65hp Cont. now, is it? On the right, light hull it could run real sweet.
FLrooter, there are several guys who post on here that DD engines. Hang around for a couple of days and they'll give you some ideas. You also might want to consider picking up a belt reduction drive for it. ***
That would let you turn a bigger prop.
Ken
*** That should get Thunder stirred up :lol: !
FLrooter, there are several guys who post on here that DD engines. Hang around for a couple of days and they'll give you some ideas. You also might want to consider picking up a belt reduction drive for it. ***
That would let you turn a bigger prop.
Ken
*** That should get Thunder stirred up :lol: !
fatboy0054
Well-known member
IT S HARD TO HAVE ANY POWER UNDER 3000 WITH THAT SET UP AND IT WONT RUN LIKE HAMANT HULL THAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT !BUT RUN WHAT YOU GOT , START SOMEWHERE , EASY TO CHANGE !
If its what he has then by all means run it. The 327 will be severly short on hp and torque at the rpm he will be runnin. Now if he wants to spend money modifying it as in heads, cam, intake carb, an exhaust system with back pressure and maybe stuick a nitrous kit on it after he beefs up the bottom end to hold it providing he didnt get carried away with the compression when it went together, then there might be hope but it seems easier to me to go get a 472 or 500 caddy and build a dd boat. They don't cost that much aren't that hard to find and have been proven to work and can be modified as the wallet allows and still have fun as you go along. So if your starting from scratch just think on it if your already rigged for it well heck throw it in the water and burn some gas.
marshmaster pat
Well-known member
FLrooter - Had a buddy that ran a 327 on a narrow wooden stick prop for a long time on a 1975 Panther hull. There are several engines that are better for DD, but just keep a few things in mind while you run and it will be ok.
First, it will probably run better with a narrow stick than a wooden paddle prop. Or at least that is how that old boat worked. With a wide paddle prop, it had much better response on the low RPM range, (we frogged by hand grabbing off the front deck) and climbed up on plane maybe a little faster with the wide blade, but then it dogged out and wouldn't make much speed. With the narrow stick prop, it took a few seconds to get up on plane, and you had to give it some RPMs to get it to climb up. You couldn't just slowly climb up onto plane, but seemed to have to give it a goose to get it to brake over on plane. However, it had much better top end speed and handled very well with that prop when on plane.
Second, it had to have 4 to 6 inches of water to idle along, and about 1 to 2 inches of water to run on plane. BUT DON'T STOP UNLESS YOU HAVE MANPOWER TO PULL HER OFF> or at least that was how this rig ran. She would get free in 4 inches but you had to give it the gas and wiggle the stick.
Third, it wouldn't run cattails, cane, or whip without several inches of water. And it didn't have thrust to push the vegetation down if you stopped in it when it was thick. But we learned to stomp down a small trail and we would whip that boat around and run back out our trail. (If it was tough to walk through them it wouldn't run far through them.)
Lastly, it would not run dry or grass with no water under it.
He figured that all out years before I met him, and when I learned to listen to him that it would not go where the seismic rigs I was running would go, it was a blast to run. I got her stuck more times than I can remember, and he would jump in the driver seat while I worked it to get it out.
The hull was a great slider hull and blast to run, but just plain aluminum. I wonder what it would have done with something on the bottom.
We all tend to forget that the early rigs were really low HP motors. There were lots of 60 and 90 HP continentals rigs around here in the early days (1960-1970s). I gave a fellow a ride a while back that used to run a 90 continental in the early 1970s and he was thrilled to see what I could run through and there are lots of better rigs around that what I drive.
Any airboat is better than walking or sitting on the bank watching. Good luck!
First, it will probably run better with a narrow stick than a wooden paddle prop. Or at least that is how that old boat worked. With a wide paddle prop, it had much better response on the low RPM range, (we frogged by hand grabbing off the front deck) and climbed up on plane maybe a little faster with the wide blade, but then it dogged out and wouldn't make much speed. With the narrow stick prop, it took a few seconds to get up on plane, and you had to give it some RPMs to get it to climb up. You couldn't just slowly climb up onto plane, but seemed to have to give it a goose to get it to brake over on plane. However, it had much better top end speed and handled very well with that prop when on plane.
Second, it had to have 4 to 6 inches of water to idle along, and about 1 to 2 inches of water to run on plane. BUT DON'T STOP UNLESS YOU HAVE MANPOWER TO PULL HER OFF> or at least that was how this rig ran. She would get free in 4 inches but you had to give it the gas and wiggle the stick.
Third, it wouldn't run cattails, cane, or whip without several inches of water. And it didn't have thrust to push the vegetation down if you stopped in it when it was thick. But we learned to stomp down a small trail and we would whip that boat around and run back out our trail. (If it was tough to walk through them it wouldn't run far through them.)
Lastly, it would not run dry or grass with no water under it.
He figured that all out years before I met him, and when I learned to listen to him that it would not go where the seismic rigs I was running would go, it was a blast to run. I got her stuck more times than I can remember, and he would jump in the driver seat while I worked it to get it out.
The hull was a great slider hull and blast to run, but just plain aluminum. I wonder what it would have done with something on the bottom.
We all tend to forget that the early rigs were really low HP motors. There were lots of 60 and 90 HP continentals rigs around here in the early days (1960-1970s). I gave a fellow a ride a while back that used to run a 90 continental in the early 1970s and he was thrilled to see what I could run through and there are lots of better rigs around that what I drive.
Any airboat is better than walking or sitting on the bank watching. Good luck!
A
Anonymous
Guest
MM pat, thanks for that post. Anybody that thinks that you need 600 hp to have a nice runnin' little airboat only needs to take a look at the last video that Rick posted.
No, Thunder ..... there was not a tow rope.
Sure, lower horsepower engines have their limitations. You learn them .... where you can go and where you can't, and then you just go out and run the thing!
K.
No, Thunder ..... there was not a tow rope.
Sure, lower horsepower engines have their limitations. You learn them .... where you can go and where you can't, and then you just go out and run the thing!
K.
I know low horsepower .. I started with a corvair engine on a homemade aluminum hull put together with panhead machine screws and lock washers and nuts with speed limit signs as rudders. Fun.. you bet hard work when stuck.. you bet wanna do it again .. heck no. But any runnin is better than all the sittin and dreamin.
Waterthunder
Well-known member
Dam Big Feather did I ruffle your feathers or something. I have owned just about every type of airboat combo there is. Most people that preach something have only owned what they preach. I have never meet a 4 cylinder aircraft guy bash a 4 cylinder, a car motor guy bash car motors, or a DD guy bash DD see I have owned all of them and base my opinions on personal experiences. I have also owned a belt drive, Rotator and a Stinger gearbox so I have experience with the deference’s between them. I have never owned a radial motor so you will never here me comment on one. There all great and each motor has a purpose but when somebody ask’s me what’s best I tell them what I feel is best from my own personal experience for their individual application. Because as I always preach no motor is ever the best for everything.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I knew I'd get a rise out of ya' ...... :lol: .
No feathers ruffled here, just tryin' to get you back in the game! We miss your input on the weekends.
Ken
No feathers ruffled here, just tryin' to get you back in the game! We miss your input on the weekends.
Ken
Waterthunder
Well-known member
I was in the shop all week end I wanted to and planed on going to Laugman's. But had to finish up a motor before Monday. So I worked till noon after I finished I went riding locally. Me CC and a few others had a blast. I missed a turn fell behind, I knew where I was going but not how to get there. So needles to say there is a new trail from Sarno all the way to 192 I eventually found CC or they found me but we had fun that's for sure.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Run an aluminum manifold, long headers, and a single exhaust system with a good muffler.
Run a cam with around 200 degrees duration at .050" lift (don't use the old stock cam from the 60's as these don't have the aggressive profiles that todays cams do)
Use a 500 cfm carb (2 barrel Holley or Edelbrock 4 barrel, what ever fits your manifold)
Then stick a 66-26 narrow blade or a small 4 blade warp drive on it and go.
Run a cam with around 200 degrees duration at .050" lift (don't use the old stock cam from the 60's as these don't have the aggressive profiles that todays cams do)
Use a 500 cfm carb (2 barrel Holley or Edelbrock 4 barrel, what ever fits your manifold)
Then stick a 66-26 narrow blade or a small 4 blade warp drive on it and go.
the heads have had work and the cam has been changed to a more low end type of grind. still running a 2 barrel carb. the hull is a 13 foot old bradberry fiberglass hull. its very light weight. with all the rigging i can drag it around my backyard with no problem. new slick bottom was put on about a mounth ago. what i'm looking to do is mainly gig and hunt out of it and cruise around the lake once and awhile. would be really nice if it'll run dry. what props would work? got a 68/34 wood stick now, but can try out a few others.
A
Anonymous
Guest
34" pitch seems like a lot to me, while maybe 26 is a bit on the light side.
Put it on there if you got it and see what it does, let us know
Put it on there if you got it and see what it does, let us know
You probably would like that 68x34 on that motor, would spin up quick and give good rpms, probably about 3000-3100. I am spinning a 66x34 on my chevy inline six and i know that 327 will spin a bigger prop, actually i have a friend that has an old solid lifter 327 on his boat and he runs a 68x32 and will spin around 3300 when wound up. It's noisy as hell but will run dry with his setup.
Larry
Larry
marshmaster pat
Well-known member
I think Larry is right. That prop sounds about right. I think I have an old cracked blade off the 327 that my old friend had. It is in the storage shed. I saved it to make one of those airboat propeller clocks in 1994 and we tried out a paddle blade. Still there sitting and waiting for the job to be finished. I try to go look tomorrow. But try what you got and go from there.
Here is a pic of the boat. It is pretty light, .090in. aluminum witha .050in. deck and polymar. It can pull right up on the island at camp and pull right off when he needs to leave. The big single fun rudders helps out too I think, it really gets that boat moving side to side to break free.
Larry
Larry