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Ecotec Electrical: Trouble in Paradise, Please Help

SaltyAir

Member
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Does any one know a shop, person, company who can trouble shoot Ecotec electrical networks- both hardware and software- so not just tuning support. I am in Hernando County Florida but will to drive far if need be.

I recently purchased George-LandOLakes' 1.8 Chevy Ecotec 16' Dixon Twister made by the great Chuck Rackley who has sadly passed on as many of you know.
When I bought it it was in perfect running condition and Land O Lakes George is truly a class act so don't mistake this post as buyers regret or drama or such.

I absolutely love this light weight agile rig... but I might have royally screwed up.
After installing a new battery I forgot to connect the 2nd ground wire on the battery that goes directly to the starter, but rather only connected the frame ground.
When I cranked it to make sure everything worked, the engine fired but stalled out after 2 seconds of running and would only crank but not start again until I found the disconnected ground. I reconnected the ground and now it will start but is running very rough, making unpleasant noises like its missing badly, and appears to be in some sort of safe low power mode judging by the throttle response. It is also throwing an OBD code for every sensor you can imagine. Replacing one of the sensors did nothing to that particular code- it came right back after clearing. No blown fuses that i can see. I feel like I either fried the ECM or the wiring harness or something else i can conceive of.

Either way i'm out of my depth. I sent the ECM to an Ecotech tuner, he cant see any problem on the initial scan but the ECM is both locked with a code and reconfigured so the outputs don't match factory so no one else can tune it... i'm guessing by Trifecta. Trifect wont talk to me, car shops wont touch it, so i'm officially out of options.

Any help from the ecotec veterans would be greatly appreciated.

Jantzen
 
Well, there is a good reasonI vomit even thinking about that D bag @ Trifecta. Best if you just cut the cord now if you like the boat amd wish to keep running that 1.8L.

I dont know exactly which 1.8 you have, but i suspect its EFI and not DI injection. If it is in fact EFI, you can control that engine very well with a huge range of engine controllers sold by all kinds of companies.

I would recommend ditching the GM setup entirely and run a Holley system and be done with it. You can find tuner support for the Holley and they also self tune so well that you may not need to do much else.

That said, its for sure some work to convert over.

May want to triple check grounds and possibly research if others have been able to run whatever PCM you have in "stand alone". You could possibly replace the PCM with a new one for probably under $100 and then tune it with HP tuners.

Thats a different hill to climb, but may be an option.

I cant help you fix what you have.

Good luck with it!
 
Is it direct injection
It is; that's one of the reasons it gets such good gas mileage and low end torque from what i understand... very hard to tune for though.
1.8L LUW out of a 2012 Chevy Cruz

Edit: actually it may be sequential not direct... i'm going off block numbers and part number to try and find all this out casue i have nothing but word of mouth right now.
 
Well, there is a good reasonI vomit even thinking about that D bag @ Trifecta. Best if you just cut the cord now if you like the boat amd wish to keep running that 1.8L.

I dont know exactly which 1.8 you have, but i suspect its EFI and not DI injection. If it is in fact EFI, you can control that engine very well with a huge range of engine controllers sold by all kinds of companies.

I would recommend ditching the GM setup entirely and run a Holley system and be done with it. You can find tuner support for the Holley and they also self tune so well that you may not need to do much else.

That said, its for sure some work to convert over.

May want to triple check grounds and possibly research if others have been able to run whatever PCM you have in "stand alone". You could possibly replace the PCM with a new one for probably under $100 and then tune it with HP tuners.

Thats a different hill to climb, but may be an option.

I cant help you fix what you have.

Good luck with it!
Thanks for the input, it made me question my assumption that it was direct injection so i looked it up and seems like you're probably right.... that will be much easier to convert than I was thinking.
 
PCM Calibrators. Try contacting A J, he offers a service to unlock tuner codes.

GM CLASS II PCM TUNER-LOCK​

Picture




We unlock Class II PCM's
Do you have a PCM with a Tuner Lock? We will unlock them and save the tune.
$75 + $10 for Standard Shipping
 
Have you tried talking with Tyler at BrownWater off US41 in Floral City ?

He has been installing and tuning Holley systems so maybe he would be able to cross your engine management over. Worth making the call.

Generally when a ECM goes into Limp Mode clearing the codes or resetting via key cycle will clear it.

Since it appears you have nothing to lose at this point. I would try taking the ECM off line for a few hours and starve it if all 12V power then reinstall. You risk loss of the tune but at this point it’s not working regardless.

Check all grounding points and any bolt surfaces that serve the ground.

Check pins in plugs
 
Have you tried talking with Tyler at BrownWater off US41 in Floral City ?

He has been installing and tuning Holley systems so maybe he would be able to cross your engine management over. Worth making the call.

Generally when a ECM goes into Limp Mode clearing the codes or resetting via key cycle will clear it.

Since it appears you have nothing to lose at this point. I would try taking the ECM off line for a few hours and starve it if all 12V power then reinstall. You risk loss of the tune but at this point it’s not working regardless.

Check all grounding points and any bolt surfaces that serve the ground.

Check pins in plugs
Actually Brown Water Airboats was one of the first places I called and he said if it wasn't Holley he couldn't help, but I didn't think about asking if he can convert. He's almost exclusively Lycoming's but couldn't hurt to ask.

I will definitely try the key cycle reset when I get the ECM back from the tuner.

Much appreciated!
 
They do a lot of car motor work.

They have done my bros dual turbo / nitrous LS with the Holley hyper spark ignition and Terminator port EFI.
 
I found an automotive electrical specialist who quickly found my issue using his advanced CANBUS tools. It was a broken wire on the MAF wiring harness combined with an intermittent ignition relay that had overheated... all the other codes I was seeing were not active. On the trailer it appears to fixed and running normal from how I remember but....

Now its throwing a lean code. The MAF is showing much more airflow than it should at idle causing it to run rich and the ECM to try and lean it out.... does anyone know if this could be an "airboat tune feature" from Trifecta? Maybe meant for engines that dont heat up quickly due to deleted electronic thermostats or some other reason?
 
So I got it back on the water and unfortunately I'm still having a very pronounced miss-fire on 1 and 3 only that's taking enough power away to not get on plane. Throwing a misfire code immediately after starting. Replaced all relays with automotive OEM quality... probably gonna try switching the coil-on-plug around to see if the misfire follows the coil.

I have another diagnostic appointment scheduled with the Auto Electrician and i'm confident he will be able to figure this out like he did the other issues. I'll keep the thread updated as I figure things out
 
Plugs fail too. Drop a new set of plugs in if you haven't already. If you are interested in trying to get another not locked ECU to fit your harness I can send you a contact number for a great harness builder in California. He has a bunch of stand alone base tunes for different ECU'S that he builds stand alone harnesses for. You will still need someone to tune it as he is not a tuner.
 
Yes, that would be excellent thank you, even if I don't need it now I probably will at some point.

And you might be spot on with the plug suggestion... the non-functioning MAF sensor was making it run rich(I assume) and I found 2 fouled plugs... The misfire followed the plugs on my OBD scanner when I moved them to different cylinders. I had a devil of time finding a replacement plug that I could confirm exactly matched the GM number that was in it when I got it. Have no idea if that original plug is the OEM recommendations for this engine, all I know is it ran like a top with them before the MAF stopped working.

For anyone ever wondering, it ran absolutely perfect with GM "55580961 R6 IFR6Z7G"
The AC Declo "replaced by" recommended plug according to the internet does not seem to be the same resistor and heat range and it's still missing when I installed them no now I have the NGK match on the way. (didn't notice the NGK code stamped small into the 55580961 plug initially)
NGK Match:
NGK 95609 IFR6Z7G Laser Iridium Spark Plug
https://www.ngk.com/ngk-95609-ifr6z7g-laser-iridium-spark-plug
Resistor Value: 5k Ohm
Heat Range: 6
Engine: 2012 Ecotech 1.8 LUW Engine NA
 
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