• If you log in, the ads disappear in the forum and gallery. If you need help logging in or getting registered, send request to: webmaster@southernairboat.com

fabricated aluminum valve covers

Fish, Jeg's has lots of valve covers in their on-line catalog. I'm just thinking that I might be a lot less expensive to buy a pair and then
modify them the way you want rather than have them made from scratch.

olf
 
Hey fish... just a little info. I purchased a set of fabricated S-B chevy covers from Summit a while back. I had to return them because the gasket mating surface was so warped. A majority of fabricated covers don't have breather holes either on one cover or both... keep that in mind as well. As far as where to get them??? I haven't any good advice. I eventually bought mine from Moroso and had to have the breather holes and baffles welded in after the fact. Maybe Felber or Waterthunder can give you further advice. Good Luck
 
filetnrelease

Exactly.

I had some spotted at Maximum Race Engines. Seems they have gone out of business. Just my luck.

One breather per cover capability with an O-ringed seal on the threaded fill cap on one cover would be just fine :wink:

The fabricated ones are just plain sexy.
 
Try James Gang. I bought from them and they are pretty nice for the price.
jgangracing.com small blocks run $120.00, BB run $155.00 last I checked.
 
Make sure what ever you buy has billet rails if their the cheapies that are just bent on a break you can be sure they will leak. Plus most of the cheap ones don't clear stud girddles or big rockers the ones that have the bolts to the inside clear everything and the ones that have bolts on the outside always seam to hit everything!
 
jgangracing.com-- thanks

Make sure what ever you buy has billet rails-- also thanks

Still searching. I have spotted a set in this month's circle track magazine. Pictured in the sparkplug wire article. Cannot find this pictured set for sale anywhere.

Guess my problem with being particular is biting me again. As usual.
I was thinking these fabricated covers ought to be worth at least one extra degree of pitch. At least one, and maybe 1-1/2 at the tips. :)
 
I have pretty mixed feelings on sheetmetal valvecovers. Like Daver said, you gotta have the billet rails to not have em leak, and most with billet rails have the outsidebolt bosses, so you otta shop around. Moroso does a pretty good job in my experience, or you have to go to someone high dollar like Mike Laws. As for me.....I love my $100 cast aluminum ones with machined rails. They're easy to weld/modify, don't leak or warp, look great and they're cheap. On a small block you're looking at maybe a 5# weight savings. JMO

Felber
 
I think the aluminum covers run quieter and cooler too. Small things I know, but they all add up. JMO

olf
 
I'm feeling your pain too Fish... I spent embarrasing $$$ on the Moroso covers I bought... I work for Moroso on my days off, so I paid Moroso to put the baffles in and position the holes... subsequently I will have to install the valve covers on upside down to work like they should (breather holes on bottom angle of cover) which means the Moroso logo will be upside down... nice advertising huh... but anyways, these fabricated covers sure are pretty. I have probably no less that three other sets of steel and cast aluminum lying around but I had to have the fabricated covers too. I'm still eatin' peanut butter and jelly.
 
filetnrelease
I also talked to Moroso this morning and figured out one could get the custom job from them. When I put a pencil to it, I got to thinking that my wife would not be to proud of me for spending money that needlessly.

"You spent $500.00 for what?" I swear I heard her say that.

I then went to Felber's new website and saw the valve covers on his 496.

Yeah man. That is exactly what I want, just for a small block with 23 degree T1 heads. Things got real clear real quick. I called Mike Felber and the price was right. And exactly what I wanted. Thanks Mike-

Hah-- . now on to what length the push rods push rods need to be when using a .391 raised camshaft block. :scratch: :wink:
 
Hey Fish,

Sounds like you're having fun too. I'm in the process of assembling a 383 and my first 427 cu in small block chevy... I'm guessing you're building a stoker too if you are using the raised cam block. Just curious, which block are you using. I was looking at the iron eagle... it won't be very stealthy but probably the easiest way to pack 10 pounds of crap into a 5 pund bag.
 
I am also using the iron eagle. 9.025 deck. Squaring to 9.020.
Assembling 434 cubic inches.

I used the Little M one the last 434 I had. Getting away from the solid roller small base circle stuff.

User friendly. Hopefully.

Trying to make some real power with a hydraulic roller bump stick. Using Brodix 23 degree heads and getting my intake runner worked on pretty heavily. Trying to make 550 tq @ 4800 RPM. Will limit engine RPM to 5200.

I just sold a 434 cid small block to a street rod guy. That motor was absolutely mean.
Big heavy boat. Got really good economy. 4mpg +-. Always chasing skinny water
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top