Fresh poly install while its cold!

[12ftgso480]

So I jacked around till last minute and don't want to wait till next spring/summer. I'm in Oklahoma, looks like a low to mid 70s this weekend for a high. Going to heat shop and direct heat to hull/poly. This is my second poly job, kinda worried about the breaks going from bottom to the sides. Would one want to heat and try to make this one piece ? I would like to try and "fold" over might be just as sufficient to make each side separate pieces. Thoughts ? This will be a rivet job, got 1/4" rivets 100° head, wanting to counter sink an 1/8" or so ? We run alot of dry ground over sand, encounter some rocks. 3/8 seamed in the middle poly

 

[John Fenner]

Ok, do your rivet lines and grid, clearing all stringers, I use a white tire marker, once that is done, roll the whole shebang out into direct sunlight, let it swell, using 3/16" tek screws spot in across the front about every 6 inches apart, then run the center to rear, work your way per row till you get to the break, heave down on the sides and same as the front every 6 inches toward the rear per side, then across the transom, once tekked down, drill the rest of the grid and lines, countersink those holes, pull all tek screws in reverse order, remove sheet to clean the shavings and debris, sand the bottom and the sheet apply some paint of choice to hull "I use cool seal roof coating" then again in direct sunlight, reinstall sheet with tek screws in same order as before, drop the rivets in, hammer away, pull tek screws as you go, drill and countersink those drop rivet in and go.
Oh and I forgot, it will take a case of beer to get it done, lol, maybe 2.

 

[12ftgso480]

Ok, do your rivet lines and grid, clearing all stringers, I use a white tire marker, once that is done, roll the whole shebang out into direct sunlight, let it swell, using 3/16" tek screws spot in across the front about every 6 inches apart, then run the center to rear, work your way per row till you get to the break, heave down on the sides and same as the front every 6 inches toward the rear per side, then across the transom, once tekked down, drill the rest of the grid and lines, countersink those holes, pull all tek screws in reverse order, remove sheet to clean the shavings and debris, sand the bottom and the sheet apply some paint of choice to hull "I use cool seal roof coating" then again in direct sunlight, reinstall sheet with tek screws in same order as before, drop the rivets in, hammer away, pull tek screws as you go, drill and countersink those drop rivet in and go.
Oh and I forgot, it will take a case of beer to get it done, lol, maybe 2.

With the poly being 3/8 do you think counter sinking the head about an 1/8" is right? The heads on my rivets have about an 1/8" of "wear" so I'm hoping by the time I start really wearing rivet heads in future I won't have much poly left ?

 

[John Fenner]

With the poly being 3/8 do you think counter sinking the head about an 1/8" is right? The heads on my rivets have about an 1/8" of "wear" so I'm hoping by the time I start really wearing rivet heads in future I won't have much poly left ?

Will be just fine. Will need to make a set at the diameter of the rivet head

 

[12ftgso480]

Got a bit with washer tacked up now!! Guess we'll giverrr hell

 

[JLP3314]

Ok, do your rivet lines and grid, clearing all stringers, I use a white tire marker, once that is done, roll the whole shebang out into direct sunlight, let it swell, using 3/16" tek screws spot in across the front about every 6 inches apart, then run the center to rear, work your way per row till you get to the break, heave down on the sides and same as the front every 6 inches toward the rear per side, then across the transom, once tekked down, drill the rest of the grid and lines, countersink those holes, pull all tek screws in reverse order, remove sheet to clean the shavings and debris, sand the bottom and the sheet apply some paint of choice to hull "I use cool seal roof coating" then again in direct sunlight, reinstall sheet with tek screws in same order as before, drop the rivets in, hammer away, pull tek screws as you go, drill and countersink those drop rivet in and go.
Oh and I forgot, it will take a case of beer to get it done, lol, maybe 2.

John,
That procedure would work just as well for nuts and bolt correct, (using the tek screws to first get it laid down right-then coming back with nut and bolt). And love the idea of the kool seal as that stuff does wonders on my home roof!

 

[John Fenner]

John,
That procedure would work just as well for nuts and bolt correct, (using the tek screws to first get it laid down right-then coming back with nut and bolt). And love the idea of the kool seal as that stuff does wonders on my home roof!

Yes, the tek screws are a cheap alternative to clecoes.

 

[12ftgso480]

Didn't order enough of the right length of rivets but got most done while it was warm out. Thank you for input

 

[Slidin Gator]

Yes, the tek screws are a cheap alternative to clecoes.

Something like this.