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getting warm???

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nightarcher

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with the 220 gpu I went bowfishin last night and idoling around 1000 or less the temp was 130-145 when running or playins steady it would jump to 200-215 why? And for anyone that is interested we shot 78 fish.

Nightarcher
 
Would help to know what RPMs you are running or playing steady at.

No experience on GPUs, but those 0-540s will start running warm if you are to heavy on the throttle for a long period. If they are anything like 0-540s you should be able to run 2200 all day long without a issue. The angle valve I am running stays low at cruise all day long with air temperatures in the high 90s. But if I step on the throttle heavy, she starts climbing. Steady around 2500 or higher and the gauge starts creeping.

Depending whether your temperature gauge is mounted in the oil pan or where the oil circulates through the block will make a difference. If it is in the oil pan, I would be concerned. If where the oil circulates through the block, alittle less worried.
 
I took it out yesterday and if I was in it 2500 or more it would really start climbing if I stayed under 1500 it would sit still I couldnt run more thana mile without having to slow down and let cool down, I have 2 oilcoolers on this boat. Do you know of anything that I can do?? to keep it cooler?
 
just got cylinder prob fixed and gettin 2700 rpms at top end on direct drive. thats good right? so do I need more octane or more fuel? I have holley 600 4 barrell can I turn up the gas or do I have to jet? I am runnin 93octane with booster. thanks for the info.
 
If its running lean you will have to increase the main jet size.

What do your plugs look like? White, tan, black?



Kevin
 
first get rid of the holly i dont know who told you to run that but that is for car motters not aircraft . second if it has been converted to run on 93 it dont need boost so quit that if that dont work call w air c (407 649 7828) he is in ovedo fl. he can talk you threw it
kenny
 
The Holley 500CFM 2 barrel is the perfect carb for a ground power. You can buy them bran new for $220 from Jeg’s or Summit instead of buying some 30 year old used aircraft carb that has been rebuilt 15 times. People have installed four barrel carb’s but they don’t work as well. A carb meters air and fuel to the motor so it doesn’t matter what kind of motor its on if it’s the correct size (CFM). All motors are simply air pumps they move air and fuel thru it. The only time I would specify an aircraft carb for a 220GPU is if you have an abundance of money and feel like wasting it. The 500CFM 2 barrel Holley works perfectly on a GPU. I have installed over ten of them for airboaters everyone comes back raving about their improved performance fuel economy and snap over the old Zenith POS. The only main difference between an aircraft carb and an automotive carb is the ability to richen and lean the fuel mixture which you only need for flying at different altitudes and the ability to run inverted which neither of these cases an airboater would ever want to do. If I remember correctly you originally had a bad hole that you found by doing a compression test. If all your cylinders are even and good then usually one of three things will cause it to run hot A- it’s not getting enough fuel. B- there is a vacuum leak in your intake tubes C-your timing is of. They way I find these problems quickly is with a temp gun look for a cylinder that runs way to hot then look for a vacuum leak. A can of carb cleaner or a propane torch will work also. If you don’t have a vacuum leak you need to look at your carb the main jet’s or some passages may be clogged. Third check your mag and timing. I feel it will probably be your carb or a vacuum leak but I haven’t seen or hear it run. So I would start by looking for a vacuum leak or carb problem.
 
I have a 220 gpu, i can run 2100-2200 all day and not go over 175 degrees, but if i get on it, it will climb.

What is your oil pressure at? I know if you bearings are getting worn out, that can cause to oil temp to climb.

As far as the carb, I have had a couple of GPU's, the best one that I have found for them is the 2 barrel 500 holley. I just got another 220 boat, it has a 4 barrel holly on it, i think it is a 390cfm, it does not give me anywhere the performance that the 500 did, but I can run all day at 2100, and burn about 8-10 gallons of fuel. Also, I run 100 octane, the gpu's run a lot better on it than 93.
 
I'm sorry I have heard the running hot 220 story so many times I assumed you meant jug and engine temp I reread your entire post and saw you have an oil temp problem. Either your motor is running to hot or you have an oil system issue. I hate to preach but I would get a temp gun and check the inlet temp of your oil cooler vs. the outlet temp. This will tell you how hot your oil is getting if it’s getting to hot your oil cooler will not be able to help you. If you see no difference between the inlet and outlet temp you know it’s an oil cooler issue.
 
new to airboating.

I was amazed to hear Richard say he was burning 8 - 10 gal. of fuel for an all day run. Is this normal?

I'm running A 350 blk. 385 hp and use 8 - 10 gal per hr. Quite a difference :(

Also, the engine turns 4800 rpm's max. Should it turn more?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Larry
 
Fuel consumption is based on 20 or more things. Most of which is hull, weight, RPM’s and where you run. Most car motor hulls don’t break free and are constantly running at higher RPM’s. When your hull plows you burn ton’s of fuel. I had a 600HP car motor boat that planed out at 1,900RPM that thing sipped less fuel than my old O470 boat . I also had a buddy with a car motor burn more in two hours than I burned all night.
 
My buddy has a 13' Diamond back with a sb, and a rotater, he burns more fuel than me, also, my roommate has a 10' cutdown hull, with a 125 and he burns twice as much as me, as Waterthunder said, their are a lot of things that can make a difference. My boat planes out at about 1700 rpm's, it is a 13'6", and all of my rigging is mild steel, not conduit. I think it has to do with the fact that I have a small 4 barrel carb, and most of the time, the secondaries are not open, but I do not run my boat hard, i cruise between 1800 and 2000 rpm's for the most part.

About the oil cooler, and checking the inlet ond outlet temps is a great idea, question though, what should the temp drop be across the oil cooler? I also know that at 175 degrees, which is where mine runs, is still a little to high, I have mounted a second cooler, but have not plumbed it in yet. I made a bracket to mount it on the out side of my cage, behind the prop, so it will push air through it. I am hoping to have it plumbed for this weekend.

Both of the 220's that I had, have had similar cooling issues, my first one was worn out, but ran like a champ, the one I have now has about 25 hrs on it since a major overhaul, and it does the same thing, go figure!
 
Hope for a 20deg drop but an oil cooler usualy drops your oil temp around 15 degress. The badest high dollar ones can only drop oil temp's 30deg.
 
Thanks for the info, what do you thimk about running 2 coolers? I ran ine on my last boat, a 180 lyc, but I know the bearings were going bad, real bad.
 
Larry, you said you turn 4800, do you have a reduction unit? If so, what is the reduction ratio? My friends with SBC and 2:0 to 1 reductions turn them at about 5000 rpm's.

Understand when I burn 8-10 gals. of fuel per day, we run alot, but we also stop at the camps and hang out as well. We do how ever run a good majority if the time, I average about 3-4 hrs of solid run time each time I go out.
 
Larry,


Thats about where you want to be. If you flattin out thoughs blades any more than that you will burn even more fuel because your cruise RPMs will also go up.




PS: I am returning home on the 11th, I plan on burning 100 gals of Avgas the first week I am home, the water in the basin has fell quite a bit and should be fun. Keep in touch.


Kevin
 
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