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Head Porting tools

COLD

Well-known member
I was just wondering where you can get a carbide burr with the ribbed pattern required to improve the Boundary Layer in your ports? Checked some machine tool sites so far and no luck so far! :?
 
COLD-EH

I always used small elongated stones that go in Air grinder for Iron heads not unless you are doing Aluminum heads then I use a tootse role they don't chatter like Burs do and you have more control with them and if you know some one with a tig machine you can weld a piece of drill rod on the shank and make them long enough to get all the way in the port
 
Felber is the master in head porting! He uses nothing but carbides until the final finish, he has it down to a science and you can tell by the mounds of material under his porting benches, when Mike ports iron heads he uses carbides with more flutes but slows the bit down with a rheostat on his grinders.
 
Carbide is great for some one with experance but I think for some one that does not what I suggested does not remove so much metal so fast so you are less likely to mess up a good head.
 
I just recall Felber mentioned a rough finish in areas of the port to improve airflow by means of improving the boundry layer. Pictures I have seen show a ribbed finish 90 degrees to the airflow. I'm sure that people have learn't a lot since the days of polishing everything to a mirror finish as epoxy and boundry layer have come into it. I'm just looking for matching the intake, little bowl work under the valve and whatever else I can do to improve things. I do understand overzealous die grinder can make things worse and I do have access to a flow bench but I don't want to go nuts. Just maby some good tips! 8)
 
Mike leaves a rough carbide finish on the intake to improve atomization and keep the fuel from separating from the air and he polishes the exhaust. However don't expect him to give any pointers on porting heads the only way to get good is by porting hundreds of sets as he has. Mike use to be fairly open with his porting techniques but has grown tired of educating people. He has with out a doubt done the most aggressive or creative port work I have seen and he loves to use epoxy when you go all out for max horsepower. This will ruffle some feathers but on an airboat I wouldn't be worried about peak flow numbers especially at max lift. Don't expect a flow bench to tell you how to port heads that only comes from experience.
 
The fuel seperation due to excessive velocity is what I recall Felber discussing. The only pointer I am really looking for is where I can get a carbide burr that creates the pattern I have seen and perhaps areas to watch so I dont go through to a waterjacket. :wink: Thats all!
 
OK I figure I can probably throw a carbide burr in a drill press and take a die grinder with an abrasive cut off disc to create my desired finish. My goals are just to make it better than factory and not make it worse so like I say I don't plan on going to wild. Thanks for the help! 8)
 
Hey Cold, Thunder is very right! A flow bench only verifies what you did, wrong or right. It does not tell you what to do,unless you really understand what it is telling you. I SCREWED up a WHOLE LOT OF HEADS before I got a bench! What I thought was helping was not. Be careful. Remember the gasket is not always the correct way to match your ports. Runner shape and direction of flow must be observed. Expansion, not contraction, drops velocity. The most important areas are about 1 inch above and below the valve and the intake to manifold match. You get the most bang for the buck in those areas. For a complete port job it is best to pay Mike a visit because experience is golden. You can spend hours on your heads and they can flow WORSE. Please dont hog out the exhaust at the gasket, it is ugly and does not help!! You mentioned boundary layer in the port. The air does not flow directly on the walls. There is around a .005" gap between the moving air and the wall, this is what I call the boundary layer. Polishing the entire port througout only gains you 1% better airflow, yet promotes fuel dropout and a myriad of other drivability problems. The grooves Felber talks about are called ribblets from what I have learned. You need to call Mike with your credit card number to get the skinny on that mod. A good head modifier helps the motor run better at idle, acceleration,and cruising. Many of the things I do are for idle quality and throttle response. Peak numbers arent everything. Felber and Waterthunder are in a special class because they build many motors, and are able to verify thier work. These guys deserve respect. Knowing what not to do is as important as what to do. Verification is necessary to move forward. Experience is golden, but it aint cheap!!!!!!
 
UNDERPRESSURE IS PRETTY SMART GUY ON WHAT WORKS AND WHAT WONT ! HE BUILD MY MOTOR ! WE ARE BOTH TRYING TO GET OUR BOATS DONE ! SOME MANY THINGS THAT WE HAD LEARNED FROM DAVE AND MIKE ARE INVAULABLE AND PRICELESS ! POTTER TOO ! GREAT GUYS TO TAKE TIME AND SHARE SOME MUCH INFO FOR FREE ! THATS WHY ITS TAKING SO LONG TO GET THESE GOING! BUT LIKE POTTER SAYS WE TRYING TO MOST OUT OF OUR BOATS !THE FULL POTENIAL TO START WITH ! WHEN YOU SEE OUR BOATS ! DAVE WILL SEE HIS STUFF! MIKE CANT SEE HIS ,BUT WILL KNOW ! AND UNDERPRESSURE KNOWS AL READY ! POTTER HE KNOWS ! THANKS :shock: :shock: AND YALL ON THE WEST COAST YALL NEED A FIX OR A MOTOR ! PM ME AND I WILL GET UNDERPRESSURE TO CALL YOU ! HE IS GOOD AT WHAT HE DOES ! :D
 
cold-eh, as i pay 1.00 less for a gallon of fuel, my wife tells me to write the check for the health ins., 1400 a month for 3 of us, me 34,her 33, and my son at 13 months, how much do u pay ?

im not trin to win a pissin contest, i think u guys pay too much or most of
ur stuff, but u do have certain things u dont have to pay 4. so go freeze ur ass off!!!!!!!!!
 
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Darn, it ain't working, but it made it into a link for porting tool pics.
 
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