Help. Newby questions/parts ID

[Reddfin]

This is a great site and I have learned a lot already but have tons more to go. I just got my first boat and it needs a little work.

Changing out old wooden 70 X36 prop to used 72" Warpdrive 5 Blade. Clearance around cage looks good but if prop flexes towards motor more than 2" it may hit near the bottom on the splashpan? Can anyone direct me to Warpdrive directly or a dealer in South FL?

What are these called? Can they be tapped out and replaced? Where can I find them? Shouldn't they all be the same length? One is longer than the rest. Any reason why?

Does this Warpdrive prop need a ring or washers between prop hub and bolts like a wooden prop or just bolt as is?

Can I put a spacer over the flywheel (something like the ring on a wooden prop only under the prop) to get the new prop 2" further away from the motor to clear the splashpan?

Hope this wasn't too confusing

Thanks for any and all help.

Tony

 

[CONTINENTAL CRACKER]

i am pretty sure you can replace those,i use the prop plate on the splash pan and use lock washers just like on a wood prop .it makes the pressure space out throwout the hole prop instead of just where the bolt is.i don't see why you couldn't put a spacer between the prop and hub.

 

[Smuggler]

In your first picture.. Those are called Prop dowels. Different prop manufactures make different prop dowel hole depths. Some times the dowels needs to be cut off some so the new prop will fit tight against the hub. My guess is someone cut them down for a different prop, installed the prop than when back to the original prop. While doing that they stripped a dowel out and had to replace it. Since the prop they were going back to had a deep enough dowel hole there was no need to cut the new one down so they just left it. So yes the dowels can be replaced. Anyone in your area that works on A/C stuff should be able to point you in the right direction to find replacements. If not you can call Classic I am sure they have them or can get them for you.

The warp drive goes on just like your picture.. No ring on the outside..

The spacer question... Sorry I don't have any idea on that one

 

[goldhunter_2]

Tony,
1st picture I have always called them "dogs" on most my stuff there on the alum prop hub adapter not on the crankshaft hub they fit snugly inside the wooden prop hole and then your prop bolts come through the wooden prop and thread inside of these . On my engines I just have a clean bolt hole in the crank shaft hub plate and use a nut on the back to secure the alum hub and flywheel.
My opinion is if you where going to use a alum prop adapter if you ever go back to a wooden prop would be that you could remove those dogs. I also don't see why you couldn't put your flywheel, spacer then wrap drive on there but may need different length bolts then you have now

2nd wooden prop should have a alum plate on the out side not just washers but for the wrap drive Hub I personally would use washers under the bolt heads

3rd yep you could get a alum spacer made similar to a wooden prop hub if that is what you need or possible move your engine stand back if your set n running the wrap drive

 

[Des Moines Boater]

Does that splash pan have a purpose or can it be cut down to suit your new prop? You could move the engine stand back an inch also. They do sell prop spacers or you could have one machined also. Just some thoughts. Good luck.

 

[goldhunter_2]

Des,
I have that same hull the splash well offers some but not much support to the transom but that particular hull gets lots of wash and the splash well gets most off it with a drain up top

 

[Reddfin]

Well, I ended up putting the new prop on. Clearance looked o.k. I spun her up to 2600 on the trailer without any problem. One of the blades is a little off. When prop is at rest the blade measures 3/8" closer to the pan than the rest. Maybe the blade developed some memory from being stored improperly. I will check the pitch and make sure they are all the same as well. Thanks for all the help folks.

Tony