I do not know if any other boats are equipped with a high temp engine shut down sensor, but mine does and I saw a valuable lessoned learned from it. A few months ago I recently went through the ignition wiring and discovered some old terminals and re-crimped new ones on and thought that was good enough. Saturday my father was running the boat with four people around the lake and the engine cut out dead on plane. It completely cut out and water splashed over the back lucky for them and the boat it had a splash plate the held enough water back and kept the boat from washing down to the bottom. After the assessment I found out one of the terminals I had recently changed went bad that connected the ignition to this high temperature sensor that kills the engine. If this is a safety feature I don’t want it!! To me it just looks like another component to cause failure. After I found this problem I am thinking of wiring this sensor to sound a buzzer or other type of warning device rather than killing the engine totally while on plane. Any thoughts? :roll:
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HI TEMP. ENGINE SHUT DOWN
- Thread starter Gulfdiver
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
I'd wire it to a red warning light I think. You can get a little red indicator light at NAPA, IIRC the part numbers start with TGA......
I agree with you, its not safe to shut down the engine in deep water. The engine might be 4 or 5 degrees "too hot", but that would be no reason you couldn't ease it back down off plane before letting it cool.
An indicator is safer than a kill switch IMO
I agree with you, its not safe to shut down the engine in deep water. The engine might be 4 or 5 degrees "too hot", but that would be no reason you couldn't ease it back down off plane before letting it cool.
An indicator is safer than a kill switch IMO
I personaly would not want anything that might leave me dead in the water, I put in 2 outboard buzzers, one for temp and oil and one for high water, the buzzers are loud enough to hear at high speeds.
The Coast Guard requires fireboy engine shutdowns on commercial vessels, mine decided to go off (no fire just tired) and almost put me into the bridge, that was the fastest anchor drill in my lifetime.
The Coast Guard requires fireboy engine shutdowns on commercial vessels, mine decided to go off (no fire just tired) and almost put me into the bridge, that was the fastest anchor drill in my lifetime.
I was once in a helo a long way from anywhere friendly and all of a sudden everything started to look like that ol ship was ready to fall from the sky ..... warning lights for everything. Chip detector, oil pressure, transmission temp, you name it.
It scared the crap out of me at first, but then my redneck logic kicked in and I said to my co-pilot, "We're gonna ride this horse until she drops.
All of this stuff just couldn't have gone bad all at once."
Turns out that a small arms round had hit a cannon plug in the warning circuits. Warning lights have their purpose, but I still want the final word.
olf
It scared the crap out of me at first, but then my redneck logic kicked in and I said to my co-pilot, "We're gonna ride this horse until she drops.
All of this stuff just couldn't have gone bad all at once."
Turns out that a small arms round had hit a cannon plug in the warning circuits. Warning lights have their purpose, but I still want the final word.
olf
"A few months ago I recently went through the ignition wiring and discovered some old terminals and re-crimped new ones on and thought that was good enough."
Something I do on all my wiring. I solder ALL connections. I will put a termination crimp cap connecter over the solder joint but I never rely on crimps to get the job done. Even soldered and just black tape is superior to a crimp connection. Crimp connections are fine in the tool box for emergency repairs but In my opinion they souldnt be used for normal wiring.
I agree 100% on the kill switches, let me know then let me decide. I will do all the shutting down when I decide its time. Olf has it exactly right.
Scotty
Something I do on all my wiring. I solder ALL connections. I will put a termination crimp cap connecter over the solder joint but I never rely on crimps to get the job done. Even soldered and just black tape is superior to a crimp connection. Crimp connections are fine in the tool box for emergency repairs but In my opinion they souldnt be used for normal wiring.
I agree 100% on the kill switches, let me know then let me decide. I will do all the shutting down when I decide its time. Olf has it exactly right.
Scotty
Discovered a little trick that makes connections live a lot longer. If you need to make a crimp connection (its not handy to solder it), wipe the end of the stripped wire with some of the dialectric grease that you use on your ignition wires and then crimp it up.
The connection will last many times longer before it corrodes.
olf
The connection will last many times longer before it corrodes.
olf
Root Pass
Well-known member
We have a camp ground and I almost always use "no-lox" or something like it when building hook-ups and outlets. I can't tell you how much money it has saved me when it comes time to take sometyhing apart after it has sat out in the rain for five or six years or more. The stuff is worth its weight in gold and I love the silver anti-seize from NAPA good stuff.Well worth the extra time it take to put it on.
I like solder also however you will find study's as far as break of wire next to solder. Crimp with dielectric grease seem to work really good especially if you have one of those really good crimpers I will not dispense with solder with high amp or critical stuff, Same thing if you know how to solder. It is my favorite long term fix for me.
You are 100% right Cold about wires crystalizing next to a solder joint and breaking. My post was more about the type of connection than about the technique. Good solder joints are always stress relieved in the harness and excess flux cleaned. It helps even to swab a little silicone on the joint then heat shrink it. If the heat shrink is done correctly it will accomplish most of the stress relief itself, but the individual joint will dictate what type of stress relief is best on a per case basis.
Making good mecnanical connection then electrical connection then stress relieved connections is time consuming and there is some skill involved but its no more than anything else that requires attention to detail.
I wasn't totally dissing grease and crimps, I was just pointing out that "MY" faith lies in soldered connections and "I" reserve the crimps for emergency repairs. Overall there are probably 100 to 1 boats with crimped connections to soldered connections. Maybe even more. Crimp doesn't mean its guaranteed to fail either.
High amperage connections like alternator and starter and solenoids I like to first crimp then solder then clean with MEK or alcohol then heat shrink the connection.
As with anything else it is a poor craftsman who blames the tools of his trade, BUT, the best tools you can afford WILL make a difference in the work you end up with and the ease with which the job is accomplished.
Good crimp connectors and crimpers can be had from the better commercial electrical supply businesses. Stay away from the hobby junk at the local autoparts store. Most of that junk is made to sell not use. To look at the crimper, a good crimper supports the entire connector for the full 360 degrees with no or very minimal gaps in the crimp area of the tool. The crimp will not be spread out when crimped it will crimp in on itself and be no larger diameter than the original connector was, not mashed and spread out.
Said way more than I planned to. If anyone is happy with the results they are getting no matter what kind of connection your making then by all means do it your way. After all, it IS your boat.
EDIT: Just thinking ahead. What do yall think of doing en electrical wiring workshop in the spring at one of the rides. Wouldnt take much for me to set up and would be inexpensive to attend. I have most of the things needed for 3-4 people to work at once and others can observe and rotate into a work position in turn. Might be a fun thing for a couple hours one weekend anyway.
Scotty :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Making good mecnanical connection then electrical connection then stress relieved connections is time consuming and there is some skill involved but its no more than anything else that requires attention to detail.
I wasn't totally dissing grease and crimps, I was just pointing out that "MY" faith lies in soldered connections and "I" reserve the crimps for emergency repairs. Overall there are probably 100 to 1 boats with crimped connections to soldered connections. Maybe even more. Crimp doesn't mean its guaranteed to fail either.
High amperage connections like alternator and starter and solenoids I like to first crimp then solder then clean with MEK or alcohol then heat shrink the connection.
As with anything else it is a poor craftsman who blames the tools of his trade, BUT, the best tools you can afford WILL make a difference in the work you end up with and the ease with which the job is accomplished.
Good crimp connectors and crimpers can be had from the better commercial electrical supply businesses. Stay away from the hobby junk at the local autoparts store. Most of that junk is made to sell not use. To look at the crimper, a good crimper supports the entire connector for the full 360 degrees with no or very minimal gaps in the crimp area of the tool. The crimp will not be spread out when crimped it will crimp in on itself and be no larger diameter than the original connector was, not mashed and spread out.
Said way more than I planned to. If anyone is happy with the results they are getting no matter what kind of connection your making then by all means do it your way. After all, it IS your boat.
EDIT: Just thinking ahead. What do yall think of doing en electrical wiring workshop in the spring at one of the rides. Wouldnt take much for me to set up and would be inexpensive to attend. I have most of the things needed for 3-4 people to work at once and others can observe and rotate into a work position in turn. Might be a fun thing for a couple hours one weekend anyway.
Scotty :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Waterthunder
Well-known member
I install that option on some of my motors but it pulls out timing instead of killing the ignition. The point is to make the motor make less power so it generates less heat also it makes the driver look at his gauges because they notice something wrong. I wouldn't want one that kills the ignition but I can see why some manufactures do because most people just keep on running the motor untill it blows up even though it's over heating!
Daddy Dave
Well-known member
Case in point to this thread.
A couple of days ago, I went to my boat just to crank it and run some oil through the workings. Dead..Nada...nuttin. Looked high and low, could not make anything happen. Started at the battery, replaced the terminals there, checked the ignition and marine kill switches and still.....dead. Had a friend operate a pump switch and just saw one dim flicker of a spark at the front of my engine. Looked closer and saw my primary ground cable end pulled a bit out of the crimped end loop. Wriggled the wire, another faint spark....pulled on it and the wire slipped out of the loop.
Bad crimp = no fire = no fun. Think I'll run a second soldered ground wire to the engine stand. Maybe.....tight and neat on wiring can be too tight and neat when there is built in vibration.
A couple of days ago, I went to my boat just to crank it and run some oil through the workings. Dead..Nada...nuttin. Looked high and low, could not make anything happen. Started at the battery, replaced the terminals there, checked the ignition and marine kill switches and still.....dead. Had a friend operate a pump switch and just saw one dim flicker of a spark at the front of my engine. Looked closer and saw my primary ground cable end pulled a bit out of the crimped end loop. Wriggled the wire, another faint spark....pulled on it and the wire slipped out of the loop.
Bad crimp = no fire = no fun. Think I'll run a second soldered ground wire to the engine stand. Maybe.....tight and neat on wiring can be too tight and neat when there is built in vibration.
Waterthunder
Well-known member
There are two successful ways to run your burp tank. (1) the most common and the way most airboat manufactures do it is by running a line from the top of the radiator to the top of the burp tank and then run another line from the bottom of the burp tank to the top of the thermostat housing, this works great because the thermostat housing is the highest point in the cooling system. (2) Which I prefer on the LS1,LS2 and LS6's is to plumb the bottom of the burp tank to the inlet of the water pump. They both have their advantages. I kind of took from each and combined what I liked and use it on my LS motors. For the conventional motor I believe the first is the best way to continually remove air bubbles from your cooling system because you circulate your coolant thru the burp tank and continually separate you bubbles from your coolant.
I have 2 things to add to this post.
1: Something that I have used in the marine industry for the last 10 years are crimps with heat shrink attached. They are not cheep but they are basically water tight. Using them on wires that might get wet or go under water work great. No hardley any problems with like bilge pump wires being green and corroded.
2: Battery cables. If you are only doing one or the other you should crimp the terminals on. The reason explained to me is as the connection builds up resistance and in high amperage conditions they build up heat. Heat high enough to unsolder them, so if you are only going to do one crimp. I do both, crimp first then solder then heat shrink.
White bear I love the idea of ANY workshops. There are lots of people here with lots of info that could be passed around. and it would be fun.
Tim
1: Something that I have used in the marine industry for the last 10 years are crimps with heat shrink attached. They are not cheep but they are basically water tight. Using them on wires that might get wet or go under water work great. No hardley any problems with like bilge pump wires being green and corroded.
2: Battery cables. If you are only doing one or the other you should crimp the terminals on. The reason explained to me is as the connection builds up resistance and in high amperage conditions they build up heat. Heat high enough to unsolder them, so if you are only going to do one crimp. I do both, crimp first then solder then heat shrink.
White bear I love the idea of ANY workshops. There are lots of people here with lots of info that could be passed around. and it would be fun.
Tim
midnight rider
Well-known member
A good crimp connection should always be better than solder in a high heat situation. Corrosion at the connection or the terminals is what increases your heat, which in turn increases your amperes. No- Lox, does work great in a wet or damp location, it really helps to prevent the corrosion. I use it because I have an abundance of it on my jobs, but there are other things out there too.
Whitebear had a good point about the cheap connectors from the hobby shops. The ones from the supply house have a higher heat rating. If you know an electrician, then he could probably get you some from the supply house. Most supply houses are wholesale only and not open to the general public.
Big Daddy, You might not have very good luck with that soldered wire for your primary ground if vibration is involved. Any connection to something that is moving or vibrating should be able to flex. Use stranded wire, and make a proper crimp with good crimpers and you should not have a problem
Whitebear had a good point about the cheap connectors from the hobby shops. The ones from the supply house have a higher heat rating. If you know an electrician, then he could probably get you some from the supply house. Most supply houses are wholesale only and not open to the general public.
Big Daddy, You might not have very good luck with that soldered wire for your primary ground if vibration is involved. Any connection to something that is moving or vibrating should be able to flex. Use stranded wire, and make a proper crimp with good crimpers and you should not have a problem
Good point about grounds midnight rider. Grounds are a kinda unique situation. They need to be super low resistance connections and cable. The flat braided ground cable is best. I crimp then solder and heat shrink the ends. In high heat you can braze the connector on after crimping or use silver solder.
This braid is what should be used for ground bonds when bonding all the rigging pieces Engine heads, block & etc. together as well.
Braid has several things going for it. It is highly flexable and it also has a HIGH surface area. Large surface area means low resistance for the same size wire or cable.
Scotty :idea:
This braid is what should be used for ground bonds when bonding all the rigging pieces Engine heads, block & etc. together as well.
Braid has several things going for it. It is highly flexable and it also has a HIGH surface area. Large surface area means low resistance for the same size wire or cable.
Scotty :idea: