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How to clean an aluminum boat

Whitebear

Silent Prop
R. I. P.
When I was out doing seismic work we had to clean our boats at the end of every day. Normal cleanup was just some laundry deturgent and a stiff long handled brush.

However every so often we needed to really spiff it up a bit. Most of the guys would stop at the local 7-11 and get a couple gallons of Chlorine Bleach. They would wash the boat down with the bleach and let it sit for a few minutes then do the soap and water routine. Seemed to work fairly well. Somewhat better than just soap.

Periodically when we pulled a boat back into the shop we would pressure clean it then use a product called Alumabright. I mean this made it look like new metal. Again it was spray it with a garden sprayer and let it sit for just a minute or two then pressure clean the hull with just plain water. Result was a super clean and bright hull.

The drawback appeared though to be that once Alumabright was used, that was the only thing that would ever clean it well again. It appeared to kill the shiny texture of the surface and open the poors. Looked great on the trailer but with the open pores, the next mud that got on it was in deep. Got way dirtier way quicker and was near impossible to clean without more Alumabright.

I am assuming the thing about opening the pores, it may have been etching the surface. I "believe" the main ingredient was Phosphoric Acid. Same thing that is in Toilet bowl cloeanerts like Snow Bowl & etc.. Strangely enough its also in Pepsi and Coke but in really low concentrations.

Has anyone had experience with this stuff? Can it just be buffed back shiny with some compound and a high speed buffer or is the surface permanently damaged?

What is the BEST cleaner to use now days???

Scotty
 
good to hear from ya,
IMO, those cleaners that work without good ole elbow grease are no good to use for your reasons. Are you cleaning just a metal boat, or paint? I know a guy who used FLITZ on a boat then shot a coat of clear over it and it looked awesome. Sounds like the metal got etched and ate away some surface. Good luck in Qatar!
 
I've used Alumabright and once everything is dry we put a good coat of wax on it all. We do this once a year and the boat seams to stay pretty good looking. Even after a successful carp shoot things clean up fairly easy. Their are different strengths of Alumabright --- we only use the strongest one for the transom the rest of the boat we use the all purpose strength .
 
Mother's Wax + lots of elbow grease + lots of spare time = shiny aluminum hull = no love life..... :lol: JMO
 
we used the alum bright on our semi's you have to buff it back out with a good wax after,,I used it once on my hull an buffed it back out and put a coat of wash and wax after that and it lasts for a good while.
 
Just like Woodswoman said. My hubby uses mothers and will stand behind it. That is how he makes our baby shine.
 
If you have a polished boat don't use the Alumibright.
If you have a bare aluminum hull, nothing works better than the alumibright!
 
FLITZ YOU CAN'T BEAT IT.

Also use FLITS on any fiber glass hull restoration it will blow your mind and it also exellent for cleaning and protecting bluing on guns.................. :D
 
Phosphoric Acid is used to etch metal before painting, on aluminum when you acid wash before paint with Phosphoric Acid you have to spray it off quickly or it will degrade the material.

By the way if you use FLITZ with a power buffer it will look better than Alumabrite and will provide a salt water protection for about 4 months and about 6+ for fresh water between polishing.

Flits is the ticket, you wont go wrong. Check out their website and read up on it.
 
I've used Flitz on my stainless handguns, but Its just a little tube. Is it sold in say 1-3 gallon buckets? Sure worked miracles on my guns thats for sure.

Scotty
 
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