• If you log in, the ads disappear in the forum and gallery. If you need help logging in or getting registered, send request to: webmaster@southernairboat.com

Hull change... should I ?... recommendations

Southern Airboat Gallery Archives

Oval track gore
Marsh Rider July August cover
New boat
florida trip 06
camo mag & valve covers
10987492_10205887118207741_3511944496956248268_o
B

Bowhntr6pt

Well-known member
I have had my airboat for over a year now and quite comfortable with it. I have run deep/shallow water, on grass islands, and LIMITED dry ground. I just can't seem to climb over small mounds or bumps from the start.

This past weekend, I ran the Withlacoochee from the outlet NW. I ran across a dry patch that was maybe 40 yards long consisting of mud and sand, but it looked quite solid and dry. It took just about everything I had to keep going. I have tried to climb small dirt mounds after watching other boats do it but I can't. I have seen boats pulled up on the river bank or lake shore and have always been weary about trying it as I don't want to bother folks to get me un-stuck.

I watched one guy climb the ramp at the damn, and although he did have to "give it hell" some and spin about some, I don't think I could have made it. Thinking back, I wish that I had flagged him down and asked him to wait to help me if I got stuck.

So I am thinking really hard about making some changes that I can afford. Getting a new set up is TOTALLY out of the question.

I assume that it would cost less to switch all my stuff (motor, rudders, tank, rigging w/alterations of course) to a different hull in an effort to reduce my overall weight factor, which I think is my problem.

Or is my thinking flawed?

I have a 13x7 Airgator hull with poly, poly is in good shape, no problems there. I have a 0470 GPU that has about 27 hours on it since total rebuild. The motor is strong and I see no problems there. Prop at present is a wood "stick prop" 72x38. I know that I could/should upgrade to a carbon prop but for that cost, somewhere around $2500, I could get into a lighter/smaller hull and have better performance, or not??

I feel that I have a great boat, I just want to be able to go up and over stuff like others do, I want max push as speed is of no interest or importance to me.

I often see smaller hulls for sale between $500 and $1000. So my question is this... what would you do? I don't care if I have to bolt my motor to a trash can lid... I want lighter weight so I can join others w/o being a pain in the ass.

What say yall....?? What type hull should I look for, what size, etc??
 
How many people or how much weight do you usually haul around. It's simple you have two choices if you want to keep the motor you need to run a smaller or lighter boat. If you haul people or gear and want to keep the hull you need more power! Anything other wise will not give you a drastic improvement. You can make some improvements but they wouldn't drastically change your performance.
 
Waterthunder":jj917igl said:
How many people or how much weight do you usually haul around. It's simple you have two choices if you want to keep the motor you need to run a smaller or lighter boat. If you haul people or gear and want to keep the hull you need more power! Anything other wise will not give you a drastic improvement. You can make some improvements but they wouldn't drastically change your performance.
Click to expand...

Only my 11 y/o son rides with me. As far as gear, 2 fishing poles and a small cooler is all... so additional weight from passengers and gear is minimal.

Your comments are what I am thinking, go to a lighter, maybe shorter, hull, any recommendations?

Is it difficult to keep my rigging, or most of it?
 
Typically I seem to remember that the 220 GPU (PE-150) makes about 160-170 HP. It has a weight penalty over a 4 cylinder A/C engine though. To get better performance I would say you need to be in an unltralight hull or a light weight/light layup fiberglass hull either with One of the varieties of Steel Flex, Slick Bottom etc, not polymer.

A smaller gas tank., not over 10-12 gallons, add gas cans and drop them off at your destination to ride around then gass up as necessary, and as small a battery as you feel will reliably start the engine.

As your redoing things, you can weigh out the components of your rigging as well and see where you stand in that department. There may be some ways to lighten your rigging and your engine as well. Aftermarket oil sumps can drop some weight really easily.

Changng riging from one boat to another can be simple or horrendous. That all depends on you runner dimentions and the particular hull you are going to. Its kinda dependent on how handy you are with the torch, saw and tools.

Hope this helps. You simpoly gotta get your weight down. From your description it sounds like your running about right for a stock GPU on a 13 foot standard hull.

Might look around at a light layup Panther fiberglass hull. I guess they are called Classic now days. I have seen GPUs really storm on them and with wood props too.

Scotty
 
my opinion,that boat you have would perform a lot better with a better prop,I run a 15x7 alum hull, poly,power shift prop,350-330hp loaded with three fatboys in the boat ,cooler, hunting gear and still run dry with ease,and its a dam heavy rig but still performs very well.If your happy with your boat keep it ,start lookin for a used prop little cheaper,but thats just my opinion.
 
Whitebear":2qudd666 said:
Typically I seem to remember that the 220 GPU (PE-150) makes about 160-170 HP. It has a weight penalty over a 4 cylinder A/C engine though. To get better performance I would say you need to be in an unltralight hull or a light weight/light layup fiberglass hull either with One of the varieties of Steel Flex, Slick Bottom etc, not polymer.

A smaller gas tank., not over 10-12 gallons, add gas cans and drop them off at your destination to ride around then gass up as necessary, and as small a battery as you feel will reliably start the engine.

As your redoing things, you can weigh out the components of your rigging as well and see where you stand in that department.

Changng riging from one boat to another can be simple or horrendous. That all depends on you runner dimentions and the particular hull you are going to. Its kinda dependent on how handy you are with the torch, saw and tools.

Hope this helps. You simpoly gotta get your weight down. From your description it sounds like your running about right for a stock GPU on a 13 foot standard hull.

Might look around at a light layup Panther fiberglass hull. I guess they are called Classic now days. I have seen GPUs really storm on them.

Scotty
Click to expand...

Sounds reasonable... I also realize that once I switch to a lighter fireglass hull, I won't be able to run over rocks and such like I do now. I know I have hit some rough stuff in the past with no damage but a know a fiberglass lightweight hull won't take that kind of abuse.

I see a Predator 11' (or is it 12') hull in the For Sale forum, is that the kind of hull I should be looking at?
 
gtoslider":2sdtyboh said:
my opinion,that boat you have would perform a lot better with a better prop,I run a 15x7 alum hull, poly,power shift prop,350-330hp loaded with three fatboys in the boat ,cooler, hunting gear and still run dry with ease,and its a dam heavy rig but still performs very well.If your happy with your boat keep it ,start lookin for a used prop little cheaper,but thats just my opinion.
Click to expand...

I have heard this before, but some folks say I will see a "big difference" while others say not. Just too wishy-washy to chance $2500 "just to see".

I am looking hard at a 74" Q-Series at the moment...

I just need to get yalls input and then decide, thanks.
 
If you like slamming over rocks then You may want to stay with the polymer.

A smaller hull will hand you some limitations you dont have with a larger hull but ya gotta trade something for the weight savings. Ain't no free lunch man.

I like the narrow bow on the Panther cause it saves weight.

I just have a fondness for the Panther fiberglass hulls because I like the way they handle.

Ask the Predator folks what their hull weighs and find out what your current hull weighs and see how much if any weight you will be saving. Fiberglass don't automatically mean weight savings just in itself. Ya gotta ask the questions man.

Scotty
 
Whitebear":22cir37d said:
If you like slamming over rocks then You may want to stay with the polymer.

A smaller hull will hand you some limitations you dont have with a larger hull but ya gotta trade something for the weight savings. Ain't no free lunch man.
Scotty
Click to expand...

I hate hitting the rocks, just can't see em sometimes.

As far as the free lunch part... you said that right!!!

Thanks for the comments, you have given me some good info to consider.
 
As for the difference between the 74" q series and the wood stick it will be better for sure (as long as the sensenich isn't too much prop for your engine). We swapped from a wood 72 x 38 wood paddle to the 74" sensenich on a dd 455 olds and it pushes a ton harder. Best thing to do is if you have a buddy with (any) adjustible prop that would let you try it that is where I'd start. You should be able to get a 2-blade composite for less than $2000 any day of the week. When you get serious about purchasing I'd give Faron (airboatcapt2) a call or pm and let him quote you. I think he has Whirlwind and Sensenich both. I had a great experience dealing with him on a whirlwind prop. As far as used hulls... keep in mind that sometimes there is a reason they are selling them and make sure you take your time.
 
My personal opinion is the 11 ft pred is to small. In my opinion the best performance update you could do is put a paddle prop on it. I just sold a 13x8 apache with a 220 on it and no polymer and it would not run the hill well but you could pull it on the bank etcc. With polymer it would have run it
ok. The paddle props are cheap (i.e. $650 or so for a new one) and on a heavy boat they work well. That's my .02.
 
Bowhntr6pt

I'm not trying to steer ya away from a new composite prop. However, with the limitations you originally stated I think you have the right approach, and here is why.

If you can get your boat to perform better with the prop you have and do the things you mentioned it won't now, then you will love it when you do have the money to go for a new composite prop.

If ya jump to a different prop right now, yes, it may push some better but you will still have it on a combination (hull - rigging) that isn't ompamized or refined yet. The more you refine your boat now the more increase you will see when you do find you are able to add a composite prop.

This is just my thinking out loud here, and I'm certainly willing to entertain resons not to optimize your hull & riging first. In the last analysis, it is your choice man, were all here to help any way we can.

Scotty
 
Whitebear":w5sr1sps said:
Bowhntr6pt

If ya jump to a different prop right now, yes, it may push some better but you will still have it on a combination (hull - rigging) that isn't ompamized or refined yet. The more you refine your boat now the more increase you will see when you do find you are able to add a composite prop.
Click to expand...

I understand what your saying. I have noticed that when I am in thick grass or lilly pads, with water underneath, the bow dips very slightly when I add power (from the stand still). It appears that the rigging and engine height is just right as the front dip is minimal, thus I don't think I am front plowing. I have been under the impression that you don't want a lot of front push downward. Is this correct?

My battery is small and my gas tank is 30 gal, but I can always just put 3/4 of a tank in there for weight savings.

The boat really seems to haul ass on the open water but will start bounching at 2300-2400 RPM. But by this time, I have more speed than I care for, so it's a non-issue for me.
 
Switching to slick bottom from polly will cut around 75lbs off. as far as the predator hulls, they're about the best hull you can buy for running the hill. they're stiffer than most and have much more flat surface. running dry ground is like pulling someone on a piece of plywood across the yard: the more wood thats touching the ground, the more the weight is dispersed. i would say to run either a 13.5 gilleo or 13.5 predator, but my personal preference is to run the wide deck (more space, and once again, more surface on the ground). I've got a 220 gpu that will go anywhere, and the only mods that i've done to it are dual mag it and put a double barrel holley 500 carb on it. We pulled up on Bullshit Hill on Lake Kissimee running four deep and didnt have any problems. You also need to find out what rpm your motor turns out the most horsepower. my 220 reaches its peak at 3 grand on the tach. I can wind my prop up to 3300, but after 3,000 its starts to drop hp. Once again, all my opinion from my personal experiences. Even running the rocks though, glass boats will still take a pretty good beating before they'll crack. the problem with aluminum hulls is that every time you knock into something and dent it, it might not bust a hole in it, but it'll definately change the ride of the boat. people's preference between aluminum and glass boats are kinda like aircraft to car motors, haha. good luck with everything though, and safe riding!
 
if the boat is porpousing (bouncing up and down) you might want to consider putting a trim tab on it. lenco makes a great pump/tab that will take a beating and the whole set up will only run you around $200. just make sure that you've got it all the way up when you pull on dry ground or you'll get yourself a nice $125 bill for a new hydrolic pump for it, haha.
 
wb is right ilove alum hulls because they are tunable jack plate at front legs of motor stand, jack bottom down till you get it to porpois take the porpois out by tapping the tramsom overlapping bottom at the corners that are off the ground she will be a new boat .ps if that makes it better then get aprop 1500.00
 
I would go with a 70-72" 5 blade Warp Drive. It will give a lot more snap on the hill. If you decide to go with a small glass hull, make sure it has high sides because you have a heavy motor!
 
There are quite a few composite props in the parts page of airboat trader
below 1500 and down to 900. lots of wood props from 250 to 600
just one thought, with a wood prop it is what it is, good or bad.
But with an adjustble prop you can adjust and tune your prop for
optimal push. and I do know how a tight budget works. Good Luck
Kevin.
 
A better prop will help, and that Q series is a BIG step in the right direction.

A glass hull with a more flexible bottom won't run the hill as well as a stiffer-bottomed boat. Losing weight is great, but make sure it is not in the bottom.

One thing you ought to think about that will help a lot and not cost too much is a sprayer to spray a mist of soapy water onto your bow to help you slip over ground. Basketcase0302 has one and it works well. Ask him about it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top