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I'm Building 2 Stossel Boats with High Torque Motors
- Thread starter Slidin Gator
- Start date
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
He sure was, we had some adventures and good times over the years. Bloodied it up again today. We were not having any luck, so we used one of Mert’s tactics, stop for a beer.
We cut the dogs loose and hung out, pretty soon the tracker said “Roscoe is Barking.” Game on.
The boat runs awesome, wish he was still running it.
We cut the dogs loose and hung out, pretty soon the tracker said “Roscoe is Barking.” Game on.
The boat runs awesome, wish he was still running it.
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
This thread and build #2 ain't dead by a long shot, making plans to rebuild the red boat for sure. Got a set of rudders ready to go. Full airfoil, 4' x 4'.
Grass rake is next
Still hedging my bets on power:
Option #1 is Fishsticker giving up on that turbo motor. :stirpot:
(Seriously, I ain't doing that, but I'll make him feel good by takin it off his hands for a price)
Option #2 is the Gen 3 5.3 in my son's truck, I mean why not, I got my last 2 buggy motors out of trucks he wrecked :violent1:
Option #3 is all the other options.
Grass rake is next
Still hedging my bets on power:
Option #1 is Fishsticker giving up on that turbo motor. :stirpot:
(Seriously, I ain't doing that, but I'll make him feel good by takin it off his hands for a price)
Option #2 is the Gen 3 5.3 in my son's truck, I mean why not, I got my last 2 buggy motors out of trucks he wrecked :violent1:
Option #3 is all the other options.
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
Slidin Gator said:
Happy Dance :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Dogs were barking today, stuck my head out to see what was going on. It's my son pulling into the driveway with his truck on a tow strap, motor flooded. :banghead: :banghead:
Pulled plugs and it looks like he bent a rod when it hydro locked (duhhh).
So now he get's to hit the junk yard for another motor and I don't have to look for an option #2 core. I am now thumb hovering over the purchase button on a new L83 (aluminum block), 5.3 stroker kit. :stirpot: :stirpot:
Hell yah, 2020 is turning out just like I planned :thumbleft:
FISHSTICKER
Well-known member
That L83 will make 700hp or so without too much work if you throw a turbo on it. I was looking at that motor as a backup plan. Lots of support for the L83/L86 in stand alone. Just dont be shy about calling for a tow 
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
FISHSTICKER said:That L83 will make 700hp or so without too much work if you throw a turbo on it. I was looking at that motor as a backup plan. Lots of support for the L83/L86 in stand alone. Just dont be shy about calling for a tow
Brain fart, it's an L33. We are not doing turbo here, towing is not much of an option for me. I have always said I'm not stuck as long as the engine is running. The most high tech we are gonna get here might be a Holley EFI.
It's a double bonus, he had to help me all day getting the buggy ready for next weekend to make room in the shop for his new project. I told him I was thirsty so I used the lifestraw to suck a drink out of the carpet in his truck. :lol: :lol:
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
Welp, it's a project. The Engine is well on it's way:
Looks Like I'ma gonna be a Caddy Guy - Now What?
Got the hull setup for the rough work, and rough it is. Going way back in this thread, this is a 1986 Bob Stossel hull that has gone through at least 1 poly job and was a daily work boat on a La. gator farm. It is 14' x 7' wide with 4' on ground at the stern, made for running the tough stuff.
As tough at the 7075-T6 riveted aluminum (0.10" thick) is, it is the most corrosive grade of aluminum due to the copper content (also why it can't be welded, but why would you, buy cheaper aluminum if you are gonna weld it). The SST rake caps vs. aluminum means aluminum looses. We will pull the existing rake caps and will have to patch in around the rake caps with new material. We are also going to have to patch in the bottom at the stern, it's pretty much toast, can flake it with my thumb.
Looks Like I'ma gonna be a Caddy Guy - Now What?
Got the hull setup for the rough work, and rough it is. Going way back in this thread, this is a 1986 Bob Stossel hull that has gone through at least 1 poly job and was a daily work boat on a La. gator farm. It is 14' x 7' wide with 4' on ground at the stern, made for running the tough stuff.
As tough at the 7075-T6 riveted aluminum (0.10" thick) is, it is the most corrosive grade of aluminum due to the copper content (also why it can't be welded, but why would you, buy cheaper aluminum if you are gonna weld it). The SST rake caps vs. aluminum means aluminum looses. We will pull the existing rake caps and will have to patch in around the rake caps with new material. We are also going to have to patch in the bottom at the stern, it's pretty much toast, can flake it with my thumb.
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
Got a fresh sheet to get this repair going. This was the last sheet of 7075 I found in Weston, next stop was Kansas. The marking's (and paperwork) say this sheet of aviation aluminum was made in Austria. Funny thing is that I had to sign paperwork saying I wouldn't export - WTF?
$615 on my trailer vs. the next best at over $1K plus shipping, get your material orders in now!
$615 on my trailer vs. the next best at over $1K plus shipping, get your material orders in now!
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
Reviewing my old posts, I incorrectly stated that high copper content was a key reason that 7075 is not weldable, that is not exactly correct, the primary reason is high zinc content. Both of these elements contribute to corrosion. The paperwork shows 1.4% copper & 5.6% zinc.
The mechanical data shows yield strength beyond 70 KSI. Compare that vs. standard cold rolled steel at 36 to 42 ksi yield strength at 3x the weight. The coolest part about aluminum (if used correctly) is that it deflects 3x vs. steel for the same load. That means this aluminum can absorb 2x the shock load by dimension and 6x by weight vs steel.
The mechanical data shows yield strength beyond 70 KSI. Compare that vs. standard cold rolled steel at 36 to 42 ksi yield strength at 3x the weight. The coolest part about aluminum (if used correctly) is that it deflects 3x vs. steel for the same load. That means this aluminum can absorb 2x the shock load by dimension and 6x by weight vs steel.
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
Got the Steelflex eraser hard at work today. Easiest way I have ever found, but thank goodness it's just patches of steelflex.
FISHSTICKER
Well-known member
That looks like fun
radtech
Well-known member
Holy Heck, brother! That looks like it took forever!! I'm not sure I would have had the patience to make it through that...course I've held my crap together for almost 9 months waiting on a new one, so there's that. Tried responding to your DM and it went wonky on me, so I'll be sending a text in a bit when I get home from work. My number hasn't changed, not sure what was up with that. Look forward to talking with you and seeing that boat of yours come together! Hope you and the family are doing well!
Tim
Tim
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
Hull is blasted, I ran 65 x 60 lb bags of sand total (3,900 lb) through the sand blaster, took 40 bags this past weekend for the inside.
If Kwan was smart he would have busted out a regular can on a pre dawn raid Monday, cause I was useless all yesterday.
If Kwan was smart he would have busted out a regular can on a pre dawn raid Monday, cause I was useless all yesterday.
kwanjangnihm
Moderator
I'd tell ya to go pound sand, but
FISHSTICKER
Well-known member
That's a lot of work paw paw. I would spread some flex seal on that bitch and get'er done
Birdslayer86
Well-known member
I did my cuz sled before be passed the same way .. inside and out .. maybe took me 2 days .. carpet glue and all she works great.. I was also on the clock as I worked for his plumbing company 
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
Stick Dicker, if I had no other options you can be sure that's what I would do, duck tape, flex tape, gorilla glue, grass, weeds etc., I'm all in on team Flex Seal
.I'm gonna go Steelflex Seal once the hull is redone, got a sheet of 80x160 gxp poly due in next month. The heat turns on next month, good thing the shop is air conditioned for riveting. The goal is poly install July/August out in the sun when the heat is on.
I was also on the clock as I worked for his plumbing company
As long as the paycheck cashed, perfect!
Funny you say this, I had a dog carpet glued down too, all gone now!
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
Here is what I am thinking, definitely open to input.
Here is the worst corrosion on the rake caps, the aluminum looks good on the inside. I am thinking pull the rake caps off, sand blast under, epoxy primer it all in, JB weld fill the pits and rivet in doubler plates into the inside of the rake cap corners and rivet it all back together.
Here is the worst corrosion on the rake caps, the aluminum looks good on the inside. I am thinking pull the rake caps off, sand blast under, epoxy primer it all in, JB weld fill the pits and rivet in doubler plates into the inside of the rake cap corners and rivet it all back together.
Slidin Gator
Well-known member
The transom area is another issue. Since I plan to deck this hull over, I will be modifying/replacing the transom any way. The aluminum is shot along the last 4 inches of hull. I thought about patching in a 4x12 foot piece in the middle, but the transom corrosion runs past that width.
I am thinking I will shorten this hull from 14' to 13'-8" or so. Since I already have 4" extensions on each side (8'-8" total sheet width) I will make my new transom 4" wider to match a 7' 4" (88") total width, which will allow me to run an 80" prop. This will require modification to the bulkheads and movement forward on the stern bulkhead.
This is starting to look like a 13'-8" x 7'-4" hull build. Driver low, single rider high and and grass rake jump seat when needed.
I am thinking I will shorten this hull from 14' to 13'-8" or so. Since I already have 4" extensions on each side (8'-8" total sheet width) I will make my new transom 4" wider to match a 7' 4" (88") total width, which will allow me to run an 80" prop. This will require modification to the bulkheads and movement forward on the stern bulkhead.
This is starting to look like a 13'-8" x 7'-4" hull build. Driver low, single rider high and and grass rake jump seat when needed.
FISHSTICKER
Well-known member
I have never seen a sheet delaminate like that. wicked.