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intercom's
- Thread starter Fire25
- Start date
This is what I used when I was flying, worked incredibly well.
http://www.marvgolden.com/intercoms/softcom.htm
I had the equivalent to the now named C-45 headsets
http://www.softcommheadsets.com/aviatio ... dsets.html
Ill probably go back to something similar when I get home.
LATE EDIT: If your a do-it-yourselfer check this out. Heck I may build this !
http://www.mitedu.freeserve.co.uk/Circu ... tercom.htm
Scotty
http://www.marvgolden.com/intercoms/softcom.htm
I had the equivalent to the now named C-45 headsets
http://www.softcommheadsets.com/aviatio ... dsets.html
Ill probably go back to something similar when I get home.
LATE EDIT: If your a do-it-yourselfer check this out. Heck I may build this !
http://www.mitedu.freeserve.co.uk/Circu ... tercom.htm
Scotty
That looks good to me, Scotty. The C-45 style mono should do it. Tell me, why is all of the electronics necessary? Why can't you just have a couple of jacks in the panel ..... plug in and it's hot, un-plug and it's not? I obviously don't understand electronics, but it seems to me that you should be able to do this a lot simpler.
I'm asking here. Why can't you have a little sealed module (you'd buy it with either two or four jacks for the panel) that you connect to 12V DC. Why the need for on/off swiches, squelch, channel select, etc.? Each headset has it's own volume control already, and that's all you need for an intercom, right?
I'm sure I'm over-simplifying this, but I'd like to see a setup that was just that simple .... plug in and talk. With no headsets plugged-in there would be no battery drain, and no need for even an on/off switch.
Thinking out loud.
I'm asking here. Why can't you have a little sealed module (you'd buy it with either two or four jacks for the panel) that you connect to 12V DC. Why the need for on/off swiches, squelch, channel select, etc.? Each headset has it's own volume control already, and that's all you need for an intercom, right?
I'm sure I'm over-simplifying this, but I'd like to see a setup that was just that simple .... plug in and talk. With no headsets plugged-in there would be no battery drain, and no need for even an on/off switch.
Thinking out loud.
Ok Ill tell ya what.
First YOU ARE RIGHT ! 99% of everything I see designed by folks who really should be doing something else is incredibly poor and WAY more complex than needed.
The above schematic I found is also a LOAD of you know what.
So heres the deal.....
I am going to design something that can actually work from the above HS electronics class diagram. Intercoms are nothing special believe me. I'll make up a complete parts list with part numbers and sources. and a complete, accurate and actually workable schematic. it does need an amplifier and the little LM series amps are as good as any. Small and cheep.
Theres a glaring problem with the design in my above post that ruins it completely. I'll fix that and a few other booboos as well.
Ill Initially post it on my personal web page while I'm working on it. When its ready I'll post it here in a gallery for anyone who wants to use it. When I get home I'll make them for sale for cost plus my time.
Believe me it doesnt take long to make one either.
I have also been thinking of doing this with instrument panels. Maybe its time.
SO HERE WE GO !
Scotty
First YOU ARE RIGHT ! 99% of everything I see designed by folks who really should be doing something else is incredibly poor and WAY more complex than needed.
The above schematic I found is also a LOAD of you know what.
So heres the deal.....
I am going to design something that can actually work from the above HS electronics class diagram. Intercoms are nothing special believe me. I'll make up a complete parts list with part numbers and sources. and a complete, accurate and actually workable schematic. it does need an amplifier and the little LM series amps are as good as any. Small and cheep.
Theres a glaring problem with the design in my above post that ruins it completely. I'll fix that and a few other booboos as well.
Ill Initially post it on my personal web page while I'm working on it. When its ready I'll post it here in a gallery for anyone who wants to use it. When I get home I'll make them for sale for cost plus my time.
Believe me it doesnt take long to make one either.
I have also been thinking of doing this with instrument panels. Maybe its time.
SO HERE WE GO !
Scotty
Scotty, you have the knowledge of electronics that I don't have. Don't just give this stuff away ....... consider making it and selling it when you come home. And not for just airboats either. General aviation would scarf them up by the hundreds. It has to be simpler than what's available to anyone right now.
Probably so, but, I got a job. I'm just doing this to benefit the airboat community in general.
Its all fun to me, just to prove a man with a simple laptop can do what an idiot with a million dollars worth of CAD design equipment can't.
All that aviation junk is way overpriced and airboats are following in the same suit.
For me anyway, its supposed to be fun, when it stops being fun and becomes a business I'll do that full time instead of what I'm doing now. For now though it's just fun.
Scotty
Its all fun to me, just to prove a man with a simple laptop can do what an idiot with a million dollars worth of CAD design equipment can't.
All that aviation junk is way overpriced and airboats are following in the same suit.
For me anyway, its supposed to be fun, when it stops being fun and becomes a business I'll do that full time instead of what I'm doing now. For now though it's just fun.
Scotty
SAFARI RICK
Well-known member
Scotty, you come up with an affordable system and I'll be one of the first to buy if from ya. Whole reason I got the boat was to spend time with my son, Be nice to actually talk to him while we're running.
SAFARI RICK
SAFARI RICK
Ok I got a lot of components picked out. What I need is to have some questions answered.
1. Mount in instrument panel or stand alone unit?
2. Plugs & jacks or everything hardwired?
3. Fixed mount or removable?
4. Waterproof or just take it out when it rains or not in use?
(Most headsets arent waterproof anyway)
I have a way of doing Push To Talk (PTT) switches that can be mounted on steering stick or on a seat handle or wherever.
Voice Operated (VOX) doesn't appear to be a good idea on an airboat because of the constantly changing ambient sound, unlike an airplane where engine sound is fairly constant.
If I supply the headsets then its wired to work with my intercom, if you buy your own heasets you gotta figure out how to make them work with it. Headsets are not very standard connector wise.
5. Aircraft type headsets or .mil headsets will cost way more then the whole intercom will. Got a favorite heaset you like? Gimme a link to it.
6. How many heaset positions 2-4-6- or more?
Tell me whats important for YOUR use.
Scotty
1. Mount in instrument panel or stand alone unit?
2. Plugs & jacks or everything hardwired?
3. Fixed mount or removable?
4. Waterproof or just take it out when it rains or not in use?
(Most headsets arent waterproof anyway)
I have a way of doing Push To Talk (PTT) switches that can be mounted on steering stick or on a seat handle or wherever.
Voice Operated (VOX) doesn't appear to be a good idea on an airboat because of the constantly changing ambient sound, unlike an airplane where engine sound is fairly constant.
If I supply the headsets then its wired to work with my intercom, if you buy your own heasets you gotta figure out how to make them work with it. Headsets are not very standard connector wise.
5. Aircraft type headsets or .mil headsets will cost way more then the whole intercom will. Got a favorite heaset you like? Gimme a link to it.
6. How many heaset positions 2-4-6- or more?
Tell me whats important for YOUR use.
Scotty
AlaskaTours
Well-known member
Whitebear,
1.
2.
3. Removable
4. Take out so no one steals it....
Would like to have a 6 way intercom as far as 1 & 2 go I'll see what the rest of the airboaters say.
1.
2.
3. Removable
4. Take out so no one steals it....
Would like to have a 6 way intercom as far as 1 & 2 go I'll see what the rest of the airboaters say.
Scotty, here's what I would like to see but this is only my ideas:
1) A small panel that could be mounted in the console w/ 4 jacks
2) Plugs and jacks, because ...
3) Unplug the headsets and take them with you.
4) Same as #3
5) A good basic headset like the C-45 mono you linked to above
6) I would say 2, 4, or 6 position jack plates as an option. I would like four jacks for my application, but a two seat boat obviously wouldn't need that.
Thank you for working on this .....
1) A small panel that could be mounted in the console w/ 4 jacks
2) Plugs and jacks, because ...
3) Unplug the headsets and take them with you.
4) Same as #3
5) A good basic headset like the C-45 mono you linked to above
6) I would say 2, 4, or 6 position jack plates as an option. I would like four jacks for my application, but a two seat boat obviously wouldn't need that.
Thank you for working on this .....
An afterthought ...... When the headset is plugged in, both the mike and earmuffs are hot. No need for PTT or voice activated either one. The mike would remove a lot of background by being in such close proximity to your mouth, and the earmuffs will do the rest.
If that can't be done, then VOX definitely. No buttons to push.
If that can't be done, then VOX definitely. No buttons to push.
With VOX you will constantly be adjusting the vox sensitivity and threshold.
If its hot all the time itll drive you nuts believe me, course you could tape the PTT button down if you want. MAybe even a latching PTT button you can leave down or just use as normal PTT.
Scotty
If its hot all the time itll drive you nuts believe me, course you could tape the PTT button down if you want. MAybe even a latching PTT button you can leave down or just use as normal PTT.
Scotty
SAFARI RICK
Well-known member
1. maybe a removeable panel mount
2. plugs
3.removable for multiable reasons(mainly cause I live in the hood)
4.waterproof (I have a tendency to get things wet)
5.????( economical)
6.For me a 3 set system
2. plugs
3.removable for multiable reasons(mainly cause I live in the hood)
4.waterproof (I have a tendency to get things wet)
5.????( economical)
6.For me a 3 set system
ok a 2 set system is very easy and basic a 4 set is a bit more involved but very doable.
Watrerproof is easy to build in a waterproof case but the plugs & jacks would have to be mounted on the bottom side. Still very doable. IM looking at something like this for a waterproof case:
http://www.hammondmfg.com/roleci3.htm
Will be different sizes for different number of headsets obviously.
Removable mount is easy too. I had in mind mounting on the back of the font seat. Alll the electronics could be built into an insturment panel if theres room but then ya got open jacks when it rains. There are some caps to cover the jacks a-la .mil style.
Maybe a button on the unit tiself to allow for continuous connection or PTT would make it go both ways.
I plan on using airboat battery power not replacable batteries. so it can be either hard wirred or use a cigarette lighter or a dedicated 12 VDC jack/plug of its own.
Scotty
Watrerproof is easy to build in a waterproof case but the plugs & jacks would have to be mounted on the bottom side. Still very doable. IM looking at something like this for a waterproof case:
http://www.hammondmfg.com/roleci3.htm
Will be different sizes for different number of headsets obviously.
Removable mount is easy too. I had in mind mounting on the back of the font seat. Alll the electronics could be built into an insturment panel if theres room but then ya got open jacks when it rains. There are some caps to cover the jacks a-la .mil style.
Maybe a button on the unit tiself to allow for continuous connection or PTT would make it go both ways.
I plan on using airboat battery power not replacable batteries. so it can be either hard wirred or use a cigarette lighter or a dedicated 12 VDC jack/plug of its own.
Scotty
Ron Miller
Well-known member
What about the two way head sets they use at the drive through ??fast food windows??? They are battery powered and have no plug in wires to get tangled up in if you have to move around. It should be easy to mount the speaker into a head set that we use. ?????
That case is great. Looks very weathertight. Four jacks in the top of it and a pigtail for a 12V accessory plug? With this one I'd probably make a bracket for it that would attach it somewhere handy, but so it could be easily removed.
If I had a hard wired panel I could find a place to mount it that would be out of the weather, like on the underside of the instrument panel.
Being able to remove the headsets is the biggie in my opinion. Take them with you and a thief won't be interested in the rest of it.
If I had a hard wired panel I could find a place to mount it that would be out of the weather, like on the underside of the instrument panel.
Being able to remove the headsets is the biggie in my opinion. Take them with you and a thief won't be interested in the rest of it.
I just surfed through all the GMRS sites from Google. I can't imagine why anybody on an airboat would buy an intercom when they can get GMRS low power radios with headsets for $69 a pair. Stick a set of shooting ear muff over the headset and youd be super quitet. They got vox too. That would be only like $140 for a 4 user setup. Plus you can use them away from the boat, and with rechargable batteries.
check this:
http://www.goelectronic.com/Merchant2/m ... MRS+RADIOS
And use it with these:
http://www.onestopshopcatalog.com/sport ... muffs.html
Scotty
check this:
http://www.goelectronic.com/Merchant2/m ... MRS+RADIOS
And use it with these:
http://www.onestopshopcatalog.com/sport ... muffs.html
Scotty