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IO 520 Build on 12 foot Hamant

Hardtail

Well-known member
I found this older 12' Hamant hull with rigging that was in bad shape, I had already purchased an IO 360 Lycoming that was off an Airplane with prop strike for this Hamant. But then I found an IO 520 Continental for sale and bought it. Both engines I bought with out hearing them run first, just took a chance on them having just come off an airplane, I also got the Log books with them. I'll back up a little to let you know what brought me to this Build. Carb Ice. I have hunting property in Minnesota that only an airboat can cross, when it's warm out, like above freezing I have no problem with my O 360 on 10 foot Franny Tayler, But this year the temp dropped down to 17 degrees and I could go about 150 feet at a time then stop till the ice in the carb melted. So when I got back in Miami I started to build Carb Heat box off the Exhaust Manifold and a fresh air mixing box under my seat so I could adjust the amount of hot air with the fresh air to keep carb ice from happening. Then I started shopping on the internet for fuel injected aircraft motors, so now I got 2 of them, and I am hoping I'm on the right track
 

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Started the Carb heat box
 

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Got the webbing paint on the inside and the outside stripped today,
 

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My First Ride I had trouble steering, need to fix the ratio, the steering is way too hard, but the motor runs great.
 

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I see you have a trim tab.....does the use of it take care of the hop?
Severval things could help.....
More forward weight
Different motor angle
Jacks in the hull
Is the bottom true??
 
Yes the trim tab helps till I get over 45 then the bow digs in and splashes water out ahead of me and I get wet.
Yes I have 2 jacks, one in the back 16" from the transom and the other is 4 feet from the transom.
I haven't checked the bottom, has poly on it, it looks good. I'll take some pics of it maybe there will be some clues
The motor is Level with the inside bottom of the boat,
I have 8 to 9" from the prop to front edge of rudders
 
Sounds like it has a hook in the bottom. Mine did the same thing until I put a jack in it. The jack helped a lot, but my bottom is still not straight. I still get hop, a little trim tab takes care of it, but it doesn't run on the nose anymore. I would definitely put a straight edge on the bottom and adjust the jacks.
 
Hardtail,

No doubt you want to make sure the hull is true, but I assume that you looked into that during the build. Assuming hull is good, pitch the aft end of the engine down a bit and run it again.
 
Hi Slidin Gator
The engine aft is as low as it can go, would need to cut the engine stand down to lower it.
Would Raising the aft end of the engine cause more nose dive or hop ?
My 35 gallon gas tank is below my seat, I could put it under the engine if I raise the rigging above the boat sides in order to slide it in place.
That way I would have more weight aft.
Would new poly do the trick ?
I noticed the poly has some waves in-between the rows of screws, so I'm thinking properly installed poly
would straighten things out

Sounds like it has a hook in the bottom. Mine did the same thing until I put a jack in it. The jack helped a lot, but my bottom is still not straight. I still get hop, a little trim tab takes care of it, but it doesn't run on the nose anymore. I would definitely put a straight edge on the bottom and adjust the jacks.

Keys2Pines

Today I tried to put the front jack up as much as it would go and still the same, Then I tried to push it down as far as it would go
and no change, still hops, I can ride as long as I use the trim tab, I have to slow down in the turns so I don't get so wet,
I don't know if I replaced the poly it would fix the problem or just throwing more money in an old boat.
 
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