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Marvel Mystry Oil
- Thread starter calbrigsr
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
Marvel oil is an excellent additive which gives some relief to an engine because it provides some upper cylinder lubrication, but it does not increase the octane of the fuel.
Acetone, on the other hand, does increase the octane of gas and diesel fuel, and improves mileage ..... but like Marvel, it has to be used in small amounts.
BF
Acetone, on the other hand, does increase the octane of gas and diesel fuel, and improves mileage ..... but like Marvel, it has to be used in small amounts.
BF
A
Anonymous
Guest
Chuck, I'd run about 4oz. to 20 gallons of fuel. You shouldn't need more than that.
Overdoing an additive is sometimes worse than not using one at all. In this case of adding oil to your gas, oil molecules burn hotter than fuel molecules. Just a small amount won't make a noticeable difference in cyl. temperature and you'll be gaining lubrication to your valve guides. Add too much though and you start raising your cylinder temperature.
It's the reason that all aircooled 2 cycle engines either have big cooling fins, or a forced air cooling fan ..... they run hotter because of the gas/oil mix.
BF
Overdoing an additive is sometimes worse than not using one at all. In this case of adding oil to your gas, oil molecules burn hotter than fuel molecules. Just a small amount won't make a noticeable difference in cyl. temperature and you'll be gaining lubrication to your valve guides. Add too much though and you start raising your cylinder temperature.
It's the reason that all aircooled 2 cycle engines either have big cooling fins, or a forced air cooling fan ..... they run hotter because of the gas/oil mix.
BF
marshmaster pat
Well-known member
It is an old trick to add a little in the gas. But BF is right, too much and cylinder head temperatures increase. There is an guy over here that runs 8 oz. per 20 gallons and claims no problems in his Lycoming 540. He using to fly a Sky Master as well (twin 360s) and did the same.
It is something of a trick left over from the military. Supposedly the military bought it by the barrels in WW2 and Korea for all the rotary engines.
He would also add it to the oil, 8 oz. per oil change. Lycomings have a history in the aviation world of sticking exhaust valves. Mainly due to carbon build up in side the valve guides. They claim the increase in temperatures from MMO helps prevent it from building up and the extra lub cannot help. Claims it stopped old motors from having the issue and swore by it. That real rough idle on start that disappears once she warmed up is almost a guarentee she has a stuck valve.
Have also seen them "Treat" a stick valve on an airboat with a 5 gallon jonboat can with about 1-2 gallons of fuel. Run the engine and warm it up until the valve is unstuck. Attach this tank to the fuel line (have it really to attach) and run this mixture through it at about 2000 RPMS. Add a 16oz. of MMO and some tranmission fluid to two gallons 100 LL. Claimed it would increase cylinder head temperatures and add lots of extra lubricant at the same time. The increased heat would help burn the carbon off, and MMO would help remove the sludge away. Seen them treat one engine and it ran a long time after that with MMO in the engine and oil, not another problem. But beware, this smokes like crazy and almost chokes the engine out, so the neighborhood had better like you or do it somewhere without neighbors. Know two of the old timers that swear by it.
It is something of a trick left over from the military. Supposedly the military bought it by the barrels in WW2 and Korea for all the rotary engines.
He would also add it to the oil, 8 oz. per oil change. Lycomings have a history in the aviation world of sticking exhaust valves. Mainly due to carbon build up in side the valve guides. They claim the increase in temperatures from MMO helps prevent it from building up and the extra lub cannot help. Claims it stopped old motors from having the issue and swore by it. That real rough idle on start that disappears once she warmed up is almost a guarentee she has a stuck valve.
Have also seen them "Treat" a stick valve on an airboat with a 5 gallon jonboat can with about 1-2 gallons of fuel. Run the engine and warm it up until the valve is unstuck. Attach this tank to the fuel line (have it really to attach) and run this mixture through it at about 2000 RPMS. Add a 16oz. of MMO and some tranmission fluid to two gallons 100 LL. Claimed it would increase cylinder head temperatures and add lots of extra lubricant at the same time. The increased heat would help burn the carbon off, and MMO would help remove the sludge away. Seen them treat one engine and it ran a long time after that with MMO in the engine and oil, not another problem. But beware, this smokes like crazy and almost chokes the engine out, so the neighborhood had better like you or do it somewhere without neighbors. Know two of the old timers that swear by it.
kb27_99
Well-known member
Have any of you gentlemen tried Lucas Oil Stabilizer in a aircraft engine?
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/displa ... 2&loc=show
Kevin
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/displa ... 2&loc=show
Kevin
A
Anonymous
Guest
KB, tell us what you about Lucas ..... I've heard some good things, but know nothing about it.
BF
BF
kb27_99":1vowffiv said:
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/displa ... 2&loc=show
Kevin, I use a quart every 5 hours of running and have had no problems at all. It was recommended by Paul Dixon.
kb27_99
Well-known member
Thanks Maddox, I was just wondering if anyone had tried it.
Big feather, my only experience with it was in my wife’s car. (4 banger DOHC ford with 70 K miles) I added 20% of Lucas to 5w30 Mobil 1 and found it was able to quite the engine down a little bit. I also noticed substantially more oil coverage on the cam surface at idle.
My main concern in an A/C engine would be gumming up in the rocker box, but this stuff has a boiling point of 700 degrees F.
Kevin
Big feather, my only experience with it was in my wife’s car. (4 banger DOHC ford with 70 K miles) I added 20% of Lucas to 5w30 Mobil 1 and found it was able to quite the engine down a little bit. I also noticed substantially more oil coverage on the cam surface at idle.
My main concern in an A/C engine would be gumming up in the rocker box, but this stuff has a boiling point of 700 degrees F.
Kevin
A
Anonymous
Guest
KB,
OK .... question. Do you think that the engine was any quieter than it would have been if you had been using 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil in it in the first place? 5W-30 is, in my opinion, too thin for a 70,000 mile engine run in the South.
BF
OK .... question. Do you think that the engine was any quieter than it would have been if you had been using 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil in it in the first place? 5W-30 is, in my opinion, too thin for a 70,000 mile engine run in the South.
BF
kb27_99
Well-known member
Good Question,
I did try 10w40 and noticed no difference. One other thing I noticed was no more dry starts on cold mornings, before I added the Lucas the valves would tap for a few seconds on initial startup, after I added the Lucas it eliminated the noise on startup.
I have no idea if this stuff is worth a crap, I am going by my experiences only and if it shit cans the car no big loss its time for a new one anyway. So far it has done everything they claim, but I am concerned about gunk buildup because this stuff alone is as thick as honey.
I am going to run viscosity comparisons at our lab this week between straight 5w30 and 5w30 with 20% Lucas. I also removed the valve cover and made sure there was no buildup before adding lucas to the mix, after a few thousand miles I will take another look and see what happends.
Kevin
I did try 10w40 and noticed no difference. One other thing I noticed was no more dry starts on cold mornings, before I added the Lucas the valves would tap for a few seconds on initial startup, after I added the Lucas it eliminated the noise on startup.
I have no idea if this stuff is worth a crap, I am going by my experiences only and if it shit cans the car no big loss its time for a new one anyway. So far it has done everything they claim, but I am concerned about gunk buildup because this stuff alone is as thick as honey.
I am going to run viscosity comparisons at our lab this week between straight 5w30 and 5w30 with 20% Lucas. I also removed the valve cover and made sure there was no buildup before adding lucas to the mix, after a few thousand miles I will take another look and see what happends.
Kevin
A
Anonymous
Guest
Thanks, KB ...... I'll look forward to hearing what you find out.
The problem with thick oil modifiers like Lucas, STP, Motor Honey, and others is that they don't contain enough of the important other ingredients like detergents and base point depressants that premium motor oils contain right off the shelf. Basically, all they do is thicken (add viscosity to) the oil you already have.
I'm a big believer that you can't cure a problem in an engine simply by pouring something through the oil cap. If that were true, you'd never have to remove and rebuild an engine.
BF
The problem with thick oil modifiers like Lucas, STP, Motor Honey, and others is that they don't contain enough of the important other ingredients like detergents and base point depressants that premium motor oils contain right off the shelf. Basically, all they do is thicken (add viscosity to) the oil you already have.
I'm a big believer that you can't cure a problem in an engine simply by pouring something through the oil cap. If that were true, you'd never have to remove and rebuild an engine.
BF
big feather":1v1fune1 said:
You hit right on the head 10,000% Feather !
However, I do believe you can prevent that same problem by using correct additives for specific purposes.
I have heard horror stories about the Slick-50 additives yet I have had incredible personal experiences with it.
Id rather prevent a problem than fix it anyday.
Scotty
marshmaster pat
Well-known member
Whitebear- That Slick 50 stuff is something I am been impressed with.
I knew someone that had new boat with a ZZ3 and ran the tar out of it. Got her hot due to cattail seeds on the radiator. Not too hot, but hot. Motor developed a knock, real loud and steady. Well the owner was not the best mechanical understanding fellow and one of the old timers told him he had something wrong on #3 or #5 cylinder. He laughed it off.
He was running his boss around about 4 days later and bam. Connecting rod on #5 cut loose. He heard the noise and looked back, claimed there was nothing in the back of the boat (thought it was trash the PW ate up) and kept going. His boss didn't like the sound and kept looking back at the bottom for trash, finally looked back at the rudders and they were painted black.
Piston had smashed the spark plug and bent a valve, connecting rod hit the side of the cylinder sleeve, took a chunk out of it, sliced the oil pan open and all the oil blew out.
Well they ran the boat in about 5-7 minutes of running and dry loaded the trailer. He almost got his A$$ whipped because he did that in the parking area and at least two other boat owners were there and saw him sandblasting the vehicles in the launcher parking area (Gravel lot- I would be mad to).
Engine turned over easily by hand with the plugs out. How does a motor run that long without oil pressure? Only thing I could think of was the slick 50.
P.S.> That cat popped another engine about 9 months later and no longer has an airboat, some people just don't need to be running airboats.
I knew someone that had new boat with a ZZ3 and ran the tar out of it. Got her hot due to cattail seeds on the radiator. Not too hot, but hot. Motor developed a knock, real loud and steady. Well the owner was not the best mechanical understanding fellow and one of the old timers told him he had something wrong on #3 or #5 cylinder. He laughed it off.
He was running his boss around about 4 days later and bam. Connecting rod on #5 cut loose. He heard the noise and looked back, claimed there was nothing in the back of the boat (thought it was trash the PW ate up) and kept going. His boss didn't like the sound and kept looking back at the bottom for trash, finally looked back at the rudders and they were painted black.
Piston had smashed the spark plug and bent a valve, connecting rod hit the side of the cylinder sleeve, took a chunk out of it, sliced the oil pan open and all the oil blew out.
Well they ran the boat in about 5-7 minutes of running and dry loaded the trailer. He almost got his A$$ whipped because he did that in the parking area and at least two other boat owners were there and saw him sandblasting the vehicles in the launcher parking area (Gravel lot- I would be mad to).
Engine turned over easily by hand with the plugs out. How does a motor run that long without oil pressure? Only thing I could think of was the slick 50.
P.S.> That cat popped another engine about 9 months later and no longer has an airboat, some people just don't need to be running airboats.
when that slick 50 first came out or when i first started hearing about it in maybe 91 or something a older friend of mine got involved selling it ...he came by our shop trying to push some on us...we of course were very scepticle.....he was swearing how great it was and how you could really run the engine with zero oil.....yea right !!!!!!!!
well we ( three of us ) said if its true lets do it and see....he said ok so we drained the oil out of his at the time brand new tahoe v8 and ran his truck for at least 20-25 minutes with the oil plug out...totally out , we didnt put the plug back in cause we thought there might be some trick or something ( he might have some oil in his back pocket or somthing ) we didnt trust many people ...esp if they were tring to sell snake oil...now we didnt drive the truck around or anything but we did rev it up a couple of times , it didnt get hot didnt tic nothing smooth as a wistle. he sold 400$ worth of product that day.. on another note i still have that complete kit that i havent used on any thing yet..maybe its time
well we ( three of us ) said if its true lets do it and see....he said ok so we drained the oil out of his at the time brand new tahoe v8 and ran his truck for at least 20-25 minutes with the oil plug out...totally out , we didnt put the plug back in cause we thought there might be some trick or something ( he might have some oil in his back pocket or somthing ) we didnt trust many people ...esp if they were tring to sell snake oil...now we didnt drive the truck around or anything but we did rev it up a couple of times , it didnt get hot didnt tic nothing smooth as a wistle. he sold 400$ worth of product that day.. on another note i still have that complete kit that i havent used on any thing yet..maybe its time