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Minimum hull size question

B

Bowhntr6pt

Well-known member
What would the minimum SAFE hull size be for a small block (350 CID) w/reduction application with either a SINGLE SEAT or a SINGLE DOUBLE SEAT be?

How about a V-6 w/reduction?

Only to be used for duck hunting and riding with minimum gear and 2 persons max totally equal to @ 400 lbs (persons and gear).
 
I don't think I would go any smaller than 12 x 7. Just my opinion. Heavy motors need flotation and hull displacement.

I have seen them on 10 footers but you did say safe size.

Scotty
 
Thanks for the reply, that's why I would limit the rigging to either a SINGLE seat or SINGLE double seat. I assume that doing this would reduce the total weight and overall total length of the rigging itself.

Storage and "gear carry" would not be a factor as how much can a few dozen decoys and my shotgun weigh? My son is only 10 and I'm @ 180 lbs. Overall "added" weight would be minimum.

I should have known that this airboat stuff was gonna be addicting..... I have what I consider a really nice set up now (13x7 Aluminum w/0470 GPU) but just can't shake the "I want a V-8/reduction setup" voice that's in my head.

This will of course may be a "long-term" project that will be completed in $500 to $1000 steps excluding the reduction unit and prop. I plan to start w/the hull and slowly build from there until it's reduction unit and prop time.

I want to get the absoloute smallest hull possible considering my needs and desires.
 
I'm running a v-8 with a box on a 12ft hull now and trust me you don't want anything smaller then that. In fact I'm looking for something about 14 ft.
 
Bowhntr6pt, there isnt anything wrong with what ya got. Just maximize it a little and your good to go long term. Add a 4BBL and a carb adapter, some good headers and mufflers and a slick-50 treatment and your in like flint.

I won't push the Slick-50 too hard, thats as bad a topic as which engine is best, but I have had steller success with it in GPUs. Mostly in temperature reduction under hard running.

Anyway, you sure got it right about it being addicted. Worser n any drug I ever seen. I been hooked most of my life and couldnt shake it if I tried. Like any good addict, I'm happy and don't wanna shake it, I like it as it is. Theres no real known antidote anyway.

Scotty
 
I'm running a 350 with belt drive on a 13ft alum hull. To small IMO. steering not forgiving at all. I am looking to go up to a 16' or 18' hull.

But, I guess it depends on what you want to do with it. I need to use mine for duck hunting/fishing/work (hunting lease) boat. I run alot of deep water, in the marsh, and run very little dry ground.
 
MarshGator

That unforgiving steering can be changed by changing the fulcrum point on your rudder stick or the leverage point on your rudder attachment point. Sounds like you need to slow it down some. Its easy to do. I'll elaboarte more if your interested.

Scotty
 
Scotty, you are right, I need to slow it down. I believe my steering is fine, but please elaborate. What I should have said is that I have seen problems with a hull that small with a V-8 on plane which will turn on a dime. Not be the best situation for an inexperienced person.
 
OK now I see what you were getting at MarshGator. Your 100% right too.

Ok the distance from the rudder stick pivot (fulcrum) to the point where either the teleflex cable or the rudder rod attaches is the key to slowing things down in the steering department. If the steering is too quick it can be slowed down by DECREASING this distance in small increments. Say an inch or a little less at a time for teleflex cable steering. The idea of course is to have a lot of motion at the top of the rudder stick and a little motion at the cable attachment point. I like mine really slow with a maximum amount of travel at the top of the rudder stick.

A caution here of course is that you can get it too close to the pivot and then lose full swing of the rudders. They still need to be able to be moved from stop-to-stop with the rudder stick, without the attachment point over centering. Always make sure there is extra length on the rudder stick past the attachment point here. Overcentered rudder elements at any point in the linkage can cause a severe crash for the newby.

Converseley to shortening this connection point, you can at times LENGHTEN the point where the teleflex cable attaches to the rudders (depending on where and in to what part of the rudder it attaches). As stated above, small increments. Here maybe no more than 1/4 - 1/2" increments. It's usually so cramped back here thet you may only have room to make one change, but it is a place to look for space to modify. There are several different attachment methods back here so one set of directions or explanations won't fit all.

As with anything else on an airboat before begining to modify anything, what is there already must be in good condition and working order to begin with. Make sure all pivots, links, cables , holes, hardware is in excellent condition before beginning any modifications. Sometimes boats get squirrely just because the mechanisms are so worne they allow no real tactile feedback of input coorrections. Sloppy attachments are an accident looking for a place to happen.

Hope this adds a little light on where I was headed even though I was misunderstanding your original comment.

Scotty
 
I've got a 11' Diamondback with an Angle valve 540 with 3 seats. I can tell if someone lifts his or her leg to let a fart squeeze out. But on the flip side I love this boat. :D
 
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