Nitrous Questions

[marshmaster pat]

Waterthunder - This is for you or any others that have played with the gas. Where are ya'll getting your nitrous kits or do ya'll build them yourselves.

Do you know anything about performance increases with Lycomings on nitrous?

I have a friend who has done it for a few years on bikes and a few cars. Never blown anything up yet and he is using some information from England on setups that inject both nitrous and gasoline to reduce the chance of running lean and smoking a pistion. Just curious.

Thanks

 

[Anonymous]

I have it on my Hoffman, angle valve IO 540. Works great, I use the wet system with a small boost. Plugs always look good, runs great. I think its better on the bottom end than trying to push bigger pistons all the time. The nitrous is there if needed and not doing any harm when you don't. I get an instant 300 rpm on the top end. You can build make your own system for about 300$

 

[Anonymous]

I agree with the guy above, It is a lot easier and safer to run a little N20 kit on a ride boat than it is to run a high squeeze motor A.K.A. (high compression). The best thing about N20 is you only run it when you need it. Unlike big pistons that always run hotter and you can’t burn up the hill with em in your motor. Plus the N20 makes more power anyway. I have built several kit’s for aircraft motors by using a 150hp N20 plate kit. The (plate systems) are the cheapest kit’s out there. They come with the small solenoids which is all you need unless you want to run more than a 150HP. You can hide the small solenoids allot easier too. Then I buy one fogger nozzle and plum it into the intake. I have done this on 220 GPU’s 470’s, 520’s, 180 Lycomings and 0-540’s that where carbureted and fuel injected. The last time this came up a few people on the board said it wouldn’t work. So I put together a kit for someone on this board that lives in Destin Florida. Well he loved it and he has already stepped it up a few times and is running 80 HP. Which is right at the limits of one fogger nozzle. I set him up with all the fuel pressure numbers, jetting info, all the pills needed from 30hp to 80hp. I lost touch with him after a year but the last time I spoke to him he was very happy with it. The beauty of this set up is you can add another nozzle later and make 150 HP. When you run one nozzle you can adjust it from 30HP to 80Hp just by changing two pill’s. I tried finding the original correspondence to this so I could paste it. But I couldn’t, maybe the web site administrator could help us if you want some info.

 

[kb27_99]

Thunder do you custom build a plate that fits between the carb and sump that holds the fogger nozzle? Or do you implement it into the carb base somehow?



Thanks for the info gentlemen and keep it coming, i was debating 11:1 custom pistons but may play with the NOS if you are willing to guide us in the right direction.



Thanks again, Kevin

 

[rick]

WaterThunder - I've searched back to March 2004 and I can't find the topics you spoke of either. I'll keep looking, but it's not looking very hopeful.

Thanks for the all the informative posts.

 

[Anonymous]

waterthunder Hey this is Mike in Destin. I lost your e address, Stll happy with the no2 you set up for me. I finally needed it one night after a late gator hunt, Stopped in some 9ft grass then couldn't get moving again, not sure why I stopped but it could have been a whisky front that snuck in on me. Send me your E address, mwood7800@cox.net
Were you at the races near Perry this spring?

 

[marshmaster pat]

A few questions about these systems from a nitrous system dummy. It is a 0-540 parallel engine that we are toying the idea of placing a system on. The idea is for use the N20 only to get the boat unstuck in heavy vegetation.

What is the typical cost for a home installed N20 system - the bike guys say they set up one from scratch for about $300.00 plus.

Is that typical with 0-540s and N20 systems to get about 300 extra RPMs at top end?

Do ya'll hit the N20 only when RPMs are near top end or do ya'll use it for coming out of the hole?

The bike guys have the solenoids hooked into the electronic tach and cannot be opened until higher RPMs. They say 7000+ to protect the cylinders from getting to big of shot and over maxing the cylinder pressures. They claimed a set amount would come out with their set up each time and the faster the engine was turning the less the cylinder pressures would spike. Sort of like lots of little bites versus a few big bites trying to eat a certain portion of N20. They claim it reduces the chance of the engine coming apart.

What do ya'll do about propellers and Maximum RPM ratings? Had 2 wooden ones go apart over the years and don't care to see another. Most of these composites have maximum rated RPMs. Is that a concern?

 

[Anonymous]

I have built kit’s for aircraft motors by fabricating nozzle plates or just by placing a nozzle into the intake. I fabricate most plate’s with one or two nozzles. You will run into a fuel atomization problem around 120hp. The 2 nozzle kit is good up to 120 HP and has better fuel distribution than a single nozzle kit. I also built kit's were you just drill and tapped the intake and inserte a nozzle You can run up too 6 nozzles if you’re really into racing but the nozzles must be located at the cylinder when running this much nitrous. Don’t let anybody start throwing voodoo B.S. at you. The horse power numbers we are talking about are very conservative. So don’t be scared, also the bike guys are running a motor where the entire Cubic Inch size of their motor is less than one of your cylinders. When I was a Pro Mod crew chief I learned that a 615 cubic inch big block Chevy made the same power as a 715 C.U.I. motor. However the 715 motor was twice as reliable on nitrous. We ran three kits on these motors two 500 hp foggers and a third 250Hp to 300HP plate just incase a race was close. Yes that’s a total of 1,300 HP of nitrous. The point I’m making is your motor is 540 cubic inches that’s around 7 times larger than a bike motor. If I have learned anything about nitrous it’s never take advise from anybody unless they are running the exact same combination as you. If someone were too run our 715 inch motor nitrous tune up in a airboat it would be worse than Chernobyl and 3 mile island combined. If your interested I could maybe put a kit together from what I have in the shop just like I did for Woody. I may be able to do it for around $375 if you want to build one from scratch with all bran new parts it will cost around $400. I just looked up a cheap 150HP kit in summit and they cost $350 without the nozzles. I have installed several kit’s on aircraft motors when you run less than 80Hp you can pretty much spray them right out of the hole, I like to tell people wait till around 1000 RPM to spray it and you will be safe. Now remember this varies with horsepower levels and the weight of you boat. Just like a car you can spray 500HP of nitrous right out of the gate in a light car but if you do it in a heavy car your cylinder pressures will go thru the roof. So once again your tune up needs must be based on your combination and your combination alone. I will be glade to help you out if your interested. A 40HP to 80 Hp kit is simple and safe for an aircraft. If you run a 70HP kit that you can spray right out of the gate you will wax a guy with a 125HP that has to wait till 2,000Rpm before spraying it.

 

[kb27_99]

Thanks a million thunder,

I am definitely going to play with the NOS verses spending 600+ for a set of pistons now that I have read your last post.

Building the fogger plate isn't a big deal for me, I have many friends who are machinist by trade. But if you have the time I would rather buy the set up for you. If you don't have the time I’ll just order the kit from Summit. The only question I have about that is, what fogger nozzle and orifice sizes do you recommend? I am looking for 50 to 70 HP increase. (Just for those come-a-long / wench moments) Also do you run a secondary fuel pump to compensate for fuel demands when the button is pushed?


Here’s my email addy, shoot me an email and I’ll give you my phone number if you rather talk it over that way.


kb27_99@yahoo.com



Thanks again, Kevin

 

[marshmaster pat]

Water Thunder - Thanks for the information, clears up a lot of questions I had. I am interested as well, but it is going to have to wait for now. Got several jugs that are low on the compression end and will need replacing before I go that route.

One last question, are ya'll running standard composite props like Power Shift or Sensenich. Just got that narrow 3 blade Sensenich and I would be doing no more airboating for a while due to a divorce if I had to get another.

One again, thank.

1300 bhp, that is something just beyond a normal N20 system.

 

[Anonymous]

I can build the whole system for you if you wish. Do you have an electric fuel pump on your boat if so I need to know what type. I include 3 sets of pills so you can run 4 different power settings. What I did for Woody was send him a kit completely assembled so he would understand how it went together. These kit’s are very simple to install, changing the jet’s (pills) is very simple. All you do to change horsepower levels is remove the lines from the nozzle and change the pill inside the nozzle and hook the line back up. Takes less than 2 minutes to change horsepower levels. I will supply a sheet informing you what pill sizes to run for various horsepower’s. You can run from 30HP to 80HP in five HP increments. I will email you today. As for what prop to run I have ran nitrous on a Warp Drive, Sensenich (wide and narrow blade), Power Shift and a wood prop. I by far prefer the Power Shift but they all work good. Just don’t go crazy with nitrous on the wood props.

 

[kb27_99]

I am running a cheap plunder type electric pump right now. I was thinking of switching to a centrifugal 25 to 35 gal/per hour unit with a pressure regulator when I install the NOS. That way I can T off the line and have plenty of psi/volume to supply both systems.

Does this sound adequate?



Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

Your pretty much right on the money. You just tee of your electric pump. I recommend the Carter high flow 100gph pump Jegs PN# 180-P4600hp this pump runs at 7psi so there is no need for a regulator it cost’s around $70. If you need more pressure and want to run a regulator get the high PSI and flow pump PN#180-P4601hp it runs at 17psi. I love the Carter fuel pumps in a Marine environment they are far superior to the Holley pumps. I have run them in deck over boats mounted under the deck and constantly in a high humidity environment. I even had one in a boat that was underwater for a day. After I raised the boat my fuel pump still worked flawlessly. That was years ago and I still use the same pump.