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NOS
- Thread starter bondsman
- Start date
I'm sure there may ba arguments to the contrary, but if your engine isn't built with Nitrous Oxide in mind, it could do some serious damage.
Consider that Horesepower is a measurement of heat. In fact all power is a heat mesurement. Be it Radio Frequency power, Candle Power or Horsepower. Power is measured in Watts. Your 330 HP engine is a 246.180 KiloWatt engine. If you add another 100 HP with Nitrous thats another 74.6 KiloWatts (74,600). 746 Watts is one HP. So consider what that much extra heat is going to do inside your engine. Consider how long it will be in that state compared to how much the engine was designed to handle, not to metion the extra burdon on the cooling system itself. AND, how many times can you do it before bad things begin to happen.
I'm in agreement with Bondsman, that your money could bebetter spent elsewhere. Ratio changes etc. It's for sure you will need a different amount of prop to controll an increase of 100 HP, and possibly a different amount of cooling.
My opinion is that your 330 HP 350 is a fine engine and will live a lot longer without the Nitrous.
Scotty
Consider that Horesepower is a measurement of heat. In fact all power is a heat mesurement. Be it Radio Frequency power, Candle Power or Horsepower. Power is measured in Watts. Your 330 HP engine is a 246.180 KiloWatt engine. If you add another 100 HP with Nitrous thats another 74.6 KiloWatts (74,600). 746 Watts is one HP. So consider what that much extra heat is going to do inside your engine. Consider how long it will be in that state compared to how much the engine was designed to handle, not to metion the extra burdon on the cooling system itself. AND, how many times can you do it before bad things begin to happen.
I'm in agreement with Bondsman, that your money could bebetter spent elsewhere. Ratio changes etc. It's for sure you will need a different amount of prop to controll an increase of 100 HP, and possibly a different amount of cooling.
My opinion is that your 330 HP 350 is a fine engine and will live a lot longer without the Nitrous.
Scotty
NOS is a Gas!! :twisted: If you do a search on nos there is a thread "nitrous questions" and Waterthunder, you read what he thinks but I think it is easier to live with a mild engine that can do most what you want it to do with decent enonomy and no real reliability issues and give it a 50 to 80 shot of gas at 2000-2500 rpm when :wink: you need it! You would only be pushing the button for a second to get the boat moving and the rpm up!
A
Anonymous
Guest
All nitrous will allow you to do is turn your prop more RPM (bad idea), or spin it up faster from low RPM to high RPM.
You really shouldn't engage the nitrous system at low rpm because the massive amount of additional cylinder pressure will want to run out the intake valve during the period where your intake valve is open during the exhaust cycle (called "overlap")
Gonna go with the others and say gear box change is better investment. Plus it's a one time deal rather than having to fill the bottle again (although it would take a long time to add up to the cost of a new box.)
You really shouldn't engage the nitrous system at low rpm because the massive amount of additional cylinder pressure will want to run out the intake valve during the period where your intake valve is open during the exhaust cycle (called "overlap")
Gonna go with the others and say gear box change is better investment. Plus it's a one time deal rather than having to fill the bottle again (although it would take a long time to add up to the cost of a new box.)
Rich Andrews
Well-known member
add a flux capacitor, works for me.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Well I think in a general sence I will agree with the advice given here. Although not technically correct, the advice should be followed if you haven't done your homework. N2O is a very easy method of horsepower and very relaible IF you know all the details. Bottom line...It's very high maintenance, and 99 out of 100 people who claim they understand it know very little if not anything whatsoever. If you run very small tuneups, you may get lucky as most of the "experts" have.
Personally, I think N2O is one of the most appropriate power adders for an airboat application (In an acceleration/race sence), because it makes TORQUE..And the lower the RPM, the more it makes. If anyone says differently, they know absolutely nothing about nitrous. The only reason it will spin the prop more RPM, is if you don't PROP it enough to handle this torque. And in that case, all your engine will become is a fat kid pedaling his bicycle downhill. For a weekend warrior/ride boat...Drop the idea. To hand someone their ass you have a grudge with..Great idea.
If anyone REALLY wants to KNOW about nitrous, I'll be happy to assist. After all...It's what I make much of my living/reputation at, but if you can't be disciplined, and use it the way it's supposed to be used, go with alternative means to make your boat quicker, and your life will be much more simple.
Felber
Personally, I think N2O is one of the most appropriate power adders for an airboat application (In an acceleration/race sence), because it makes TORQUE..And the lower the RPM, the more it makes. If anyone says differently, they know absolutely nothing about nitrous. The only reason it will spin the prop more RPM, is if you don't PROP it enough to handle this torque. And in that case, all your engine will become is a fat kid pedaling his bicycle downhill. For a weekend warrior/ride boat...Drop the idea. To hand someone their ass you have a grudge with..Great idea.
If anyone REALLY wants to KNOW about nitrous, I'll be happy to assist. After all...It's what I make much of my living/reputation at, but if you can't be disciplined, and use it the way it's supposed to be used, go with alternative means to make your boat quicker, and your life will be much more simple.
Felber
A
Anonymous
Guest
Since you can only set one pitch at a time in your prop, you'd have to add pitch to the point that you lose RPM, and then the nitrous will bring you back up to where you were. When you're not using it, you won't have the snap you had before. Just how dependent on nitrous do you want your boat to be?
FELBER, what's the lowest safe RPM you can run nitrous? I am sure that depends on your cam, etc, but what's a general guideline for you? I've read lots about it, but enlighten me.
FELBER, what's the lowest safe RPM you can run nitrous? I am sure that depends on your cam, etc, but what's a general guideline for you? I've read lots about it, but enlighten me.
A
Anonymous
Guest
It actually comes down to a lot of things. The size of the engine, the load initially encountered at the crankshaft (cylinder pressure/rise), the size of the tuneup, and whether it's a plate or fogger system are just a few good ones. "General" rule of thumb in darg car applications with sizable tuneups is 3500. But done with a system designed properly it can be much lower.
Felber
Felber
It was a long time ago so Waterthunder could have changed his opinion on this but! This was his opinion at that time.:lol:
Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 7:48 am Post subject: nitrous
I agree with the guy above, It is a lot easier and safer to run a little N20 kit on a ride boat than it is to run a high squeeze motor A.K.A. (high compression). The best thing about N20 is you only run it when you need it. Unlike big pistons that always run hotter and you can’t burn up the hill with em in your motor. Plus the N20 makes more power anyway. I have built several kit’s for aircraft motors by using a 150hp N20 plate kit. The (plate systems) are the cheapest kit’s out there. They come with the small solenoids which is all you need unless you want to run more than a 150HP. You can hide the small solenoids allot easier too. Then I buy one fogger nozzle and plum it into the intake. I have done this on 220 GPU’s 470’s, 520’s, 180 Lycomings and 0-540’s that where carbureted and fuel injected. The last time this came up a few people on the board said it wouldn’t work. So I put together a kit for someone on this board that lives in Destin Florida. Well he loved it and he has already stepped it up a few times and is running 80 HP. Which is right at the limits of one fogger nozzle. I set him up with all the fuel pressure numbers, jetting info, all the pills needed from 30hp to 80hp. I lost touch with him after a year but the last time I spoke to him he was very happy with it. The beauty of this set up is you can add another nozzle later and make 150 HP. When you run one nozzle you can adjust it from 30HP to 80Hp just by changing two pill’s. I tried finding the original correspondence to this so I could paste it. But I couldn’t, maybe the web site administrator could help us if you want some info.
Here's a little more! 8)
I have installed several kit’s on aircraft motors when you run less than 80Hp you can pretty much spray them right out of the hole, I like to tell people wait till around 1000 RPM to spray it and you will be safe. Now remember this varies with horsepower levels and the weight of you boat. Just like a car you can spray 500HP of nitrous right out of the gate in a light car but if you do it in a heavy car your cylinder pressures will go thru the roof. So once again your tune up needs must be based on your combination and your combination alone. I will be glade to help you out if your interested. A 40HP to 80 Hp kit is simple and safe for an aircraft. If you run a 70HP kit that you can spray right out of the gate you will wax a guy with a 125HP that has to wait till 2,000Rpm before spraying it.
And now Felber! :wink:
Personally, I think N2O is one of the most appropriate power adders for an airboat application (In an acceleration/race sence), because it makes TORQUE..And the lower the RPM, the more it makes.
Now me! :lol: It's about $6.00/Lb. up here and guys I know that use it say a 10 Lb. bottle on the strip at 150 Hp lasts about a minute! At that price it's something I would only use when I needed it or wanted to blow somebody away. I think if you had a 60 to 80 Hp shot that you used to get going in mud or cane, that would be about 100 pushes of the button and once you are moving your off the gas. Stop part way up the hill and get going again. From a torque perspective I guess a supercharger would be the only other answer and then you have to live with everything else that comes with it every hour you ride! 8) But then I am just a stupid Canadian
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Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 7:48 am Post subject: nitrous
I agree with the guy above, It is a lot easier and safer to run a little N20 kit on a ride boat than it is to run a high squeeze motor A.K.A. (high compression). The best thing about N20 is you only run it when you need it. Unlike big pistons that always run hotter and you can’t burn up the hill with em in your motor. Plus the N20 makes more power anyway. I have built several kit’s for aircraft motors by using a 150hp N20 plate kit. The (plate systems) are the cheapest kit’s out there. They come with the small solenoids which is all you need unless you want to run more than a 150HP. You can hide the small solenoids allot easier too. Then I buy one fogger nozzle and plum it into the intake. I have done this on 220 GPU’s 470’s, 520’s, 180 Lycomings and 0-540’s that where carbureted and fuel injected. The last time this came up a few people on the board said it wouldn’t work. So I put together a kit for someone on this board that lives in Destin Florida. Well he loved it and he has already stepped it up a few times and is running 80 HP. Which is right at the limits of one fogger nozzle. I set him up with all the fuel pressure numbers, jetting info, all the pills needed from 30hp to 80hp. I lost touch with him after a year but the last time I spoke to him he was very happy with it. The beauty of this set up is you can add another nozzle later and make 150 HP. When you run one nozzle you can adjust it from 30HP to 80Hp just by changing two pill’s. I tried finding the original correspondence to this so I could paste it. But I couldn’t, maybe the web site administrator could help us if you want some info.
Here's a little more! 8)
I have installed several kit’s on aircraft motors when you run less than 80Hp you can pretty much spray them right out of the hole, I like to tell people wait till around 1000 RPM to spray it and you will be safe. Now remember this varies with horsepower levels and the weight of you boat. Just like a car you can spray 500HP of nitrous right out of the gate in a light car but if you do it in a heavy car your cylinder pressures will go thru the roof. So once again your tune up needs must be based on your combination and your combination alone. I will be glade to help you out if your interested. A 40HP to 80 Hp kit is simple and safe for an aircraft. If you run a 70HP kit that you can spray right out of the gate you will wax a guy with a 125HP that has to wait till 2,000Rpm before spraying it.
And now Felber! :wink:
Personally, I think N2O is one of the most appropriate power adders for an airboat application (In an acceleration/race sence), because it makes TORQUE..And the lower the RPM, the more it makes.
Now me! :lol: It's about $6.00/Lb. up here and guys I know that use it say a 10 Lb. bottle on the strip at 150 Hp lasts about a minute! At that price it's something I would only use when I needed it or wanted to blow somebody away. I think if you had a 60 to 80 Hp shot that you used to get going in mud or cane, that would be about 100 pushes of the button and once you are moving your off the gas. Stop part way up the hill and get going again. From a torque perspective I guess a supercharger would be the only other answer and then you have to live with everything else that comes with it every hour you ride! 8) But then I am just a stupid Canadian
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I was thinking of beffing the motor up but after takling
to dave, I went with nos and a wet system using a 75shot. ben working great for 3 yrs now with no noticble wear inside. I think it has to be better than putting the high comp pistions, those things wear every stroke when starting it up and on the pins.
it took about an hour to wire and hook up, I do use it at times, mostly for play but twice when stuck. Great to have the instant 3oo rpn when needed. I do have cht gauges and never notice a rise in temp, but I only have it on a few seconds at a wack
to dave, I went with nos and a wet system using a 75shot. ben working great for 3 yrs now with no noticble wear inside. I think it has to be better than putting the high comp pistions, those things wear every stroke when starting it up and on the pins.
it took about an hour to wire and hook up, I do use it at times, mostly for play but twice when stuck. Great to have the instant 3oo rpn when needed. I do have cht gauges and never notice a rise in temp, but I only have it on a few seconds at a wack
Waterthunder
Well-known member
You hit the nail on the head with that comment Mike. Glad to here the system I put together for ya has been trouble free. I have seen some of the passengers you haul around and I know your using it for the fear factor and not for moving more weight HE-HE.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Thunder, the man don't just haul water lizards around.
Hold my beer and watch this ...... :lol: .
BF
Hold my beer and watch this ...... :lol: .
BF
todd glover
Well-known member
it works great but most people use it like it and start to use it to much its cheap hp in a bottle good luck
it is like crack cocaine ... you can't just do a little bit ... on occasion .. you will be hooked till ya blow it up
LOL yep thats what we all have said ... but hell its all good maybe you will have the self control to use it that way .. but when you get really stuck and your really spray it ... it is the same as racin with it .. just a thought ... just pick up some pistons so you can replace them as needed .. most who run nos have a box or two of them ... I have a brand new plate system 50 to 150 hp for a holley carb with a full bottle all parts still in blister wrap ... you can get it for 300 bucks .. can't ship it because the bottle is full but I can stop by your office ..
SwampCritter84
Well-known member
look at it this way. i used to have an 11 sec flat mustang and on a full bottle with a 150 shot i could get 6 passes out of it. thats basically 66 sec. plus your purge and your burnouts. if your stuck youll only have about 90 sec. of nitrous if you have a 10lb bottle. and at 40- 60$ per bottle im not sure what they are now, but that will add up and it wont be a cheap and quick hp gain in the longrun..... just my 2 cents.
Cody Alvarez
Well-known member
Take it to performance plus in fort myers and have darryl set the nitrous up. If you do it right there is nothing to worry about with a 100 shot. Had a zz4 crate motor that had dozens of bottles for several years ran threw it and it still runs like a champ.