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One wire alternator

cowboy

cowboy

Moderator
The alternator on my boat locked up on me last week-end, and I had to cut the belt off.

I'm gonna replace it, but it's a one wire set up with just a battery wire connected. I have a tggle switch that I turn on, that will start excite the field when I wan't it to charge. If it's turned off, it does not charge.

Problem is it's got a small diode or something soldered across the two prongs for the two wire connector.

Any body know what that electronic component is? Hoping someone could tell me, so I can get a new one, and put it on the replacement alternator.
 
Cowboy, just go to NAPA and get a 13-4011SW.

That's what I have for mine, one wire, factory built, no switches and a lifetime warranty. Can't beat it for the money
 
Thanks Red,
The one on my boat looks like a G.M. style (I think). Hoping to get one that will go right back on my brackets.
 
DSC00135.JPG
 
DSC00134.JPG


Here's a view of the front with the Summit Racing Billet low mount for short water pump
 
Nice!
Mine looks almost excactly like that. Vents in the rear are a little different.
The diode dealy was soldered between the number 1 & 2 terminals. Is anything there on yours?
 
Cowboy, most any GM alternator will bolt in the brackets if it has the 12:00 and 6:00 mounting ears
 
cowboy":xb22qcuk said:
The diode dealy was soldered between the number 1 & 2 terminals. Is anything there on yours?
Click to expand...

If you look closely at the left side of the pic, you will see a black rubber plug over the 1 and 2 terminals
 
Thats what I thought Red. It may have somthing in there that provides continuity, and a check valave for electrons????

I'm gonna get down to NAPA tomorrow.

Thanks Red.
BTW,
Thats a super nice set up you've got there.
 
Thanks man, I've got all kinds of neat crap for this boat. Making me wonder why I've never bought any of this kind of stuff for my truck! Maybe since the hood covers it all up anyways LOL :lol:
 
Wire a 16 gauge jumper between the main battery terminal on the alternator to terminal number 2, the one farthest from the main battery terminal. Terminal number one gets switched power to turn on the alternator and unless you have a designated alternator switch and run off the switch that runs the ignition, when you shut off the ignition switch the engine will continue running. Normally we use a diode between B+ and #1, the easy way to determine direction of the diode is to put one end on battery and a test light on the other. If the test light lights, the end the test light is on is the end that goes to terminal one. Another method is to install a small indicator light between switched power and terminal one. With the key on and engine not running the bulb will light, (you might have to experiment with wattage to get the brightness as higher wattage bulbs will be quite dim) and once you start the engine voltage equalizes and shuts the bulb off indicating that your charging system is working but you probably use a gauge anyways. If you use a toggle switch for ignition you can just use a double pole, single throw switch with b+ on to both sides of the switch and use one side for igniton and the other side for the alternator. There you go, three options
 
By the way there is also a self energizing version of that alternator that would only require a B+ wire to the battery however you would probably have to rev the engine to 1500-2000 rpm to energize it and it is not near as cheap as the one used from about 1970 to 1985.
 
since we're talking about alternators......i think my sending unit has gone out on my 0360. i've changed alternators twice with no luck. anyone had similar problems???????

oh, btw, my activation rpm is 1200 on my 0540
 
Other than having owned a cessna 182 I don't know much about A/C charging systems. I have rebuilt A/C alternators but the control systems (overcurrents etc) if you are using them are french to me. I apologize for not reading the first question on this thread more closely. I had a 23 hour day yesterday and after 2 hours sleep I am back at work for another 11.5 Hr. shift, KIND OF BAGGED! However I have specialized in automotive/heavy duty/marine electrical for 27 years and from what I have seen as far as reliability I would prefer to have a 2 wire alternator over a self exciting alternator. Just preference from my experience and observations thats all. The A/C alternators I have worked on where really no different than any other alternator I have worked on so whatever they are using to make it self exciting, there is probably a simple way to wire it so it is not self exciting.
 
Correction for my first post, I stated diode between B+ and #1. Should read diode between SWITCHED B+ and #1. My excuse for mistake? 23 hour day yesterday, 2 hours sleep, 11.5 shift today. I'm wiped. Can't wait to get off work!
 
i took regular gm alt to alt shop he changed to one wire in about five min 15.00bucks
 
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