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Push-Pull cable

NorthWestFloridaBoy, I have run both. I have never owned a teleflex steered boat but all of the seismic boats I ran were. Teleflex steering is nice and theres little to detract from it but price. If you can run one, you can run the other. They will both develope slack or slop over time with no maintenance. Theres nothing at all wrong with a well built belcrank and rods for steering. Both require some periodic mainenance. Both can be dangerous when not kept in good condition. Some folks feel they gain floor space with Teleflex cable to add coolers, grills, who knows what else. I havent found that to be the case. I never crowd or pack my boat anyway. Neither has a mechanical leverage advantage over the other.

Its merely a personal choice.

Scotty
 
I have a Teleflex cable for mine that my friend modified for airboat use. It is actually some type of outboard or sterndrive cable. I will never use any other type of cable.

The cheap corrugated cables with the big nuts on each end are stiff and get stiffer over time. I will try to get a photo of my cable on here
 
I run cables made for airboats and they are stainless inside as well as stainless ends. They don't seem to have all the issues the cheaper ones do. I have worn out several of the regular airboat cables but the stainless is still ticking but it does cost more. However I have a real problem if the steering doesn't work when I need it to as I expect it to, I hate surprises like that.
 
Cntry, I agree. I never try to save money on tires or brakes on my truck, and I want the best steering cable and fittings money can buy for the old blowboat.

BF
 
if im not mistaken, the bell crank set up will return to neutral if it brakes.teleflex will not. ive ran both. i only run teleflex so i dont have to worry about someone stepping on my steering linkage.
 
Great point, Cracker! My old boat was bellcrank, but I always had to be careful where people stepped.

Northwest, you won't have thrust forces against your rudders like somebody that's running a Chevy or A/C motor. A good quality small teleflex will work fine for you ..... probably something similar to what a full sze boat runs for a throttle cable. I keep forgetting that you have to be concerned with weight.

BF
 
After you run your cable steering for several hours or in the cold climate and they seem to become sticky or harder to use. Fill them wit TRY- FLOW Oil. This is very easily done by sliding the rubber covers back onto the bare shaft at the steering stick. Them disassemble the cable from the rudders -- remove the connectors--locking nuts and rubber boots. Take a ???2 foot piece of clear plastic hose large enough to slide over the cable past the locking nut threads and clamp it tight with two hose clamps.. now use a pipe fitting reducer with a tier air valve steam to plug the other end of the hose after you fill it 1/3 rd of the way with the Try-Flow oil. Fasten that pipe fitting with a hose clamp and add 2 to 5 LBS. of air pressure.. Work the steering stick until the oil comes out of the cable connections. This will make your cable steering twice as easy and it will help prevent freeze ups in the winter if your lucky enough to enjoy that season.
 
another trick i found to work to make your steering easier. instead of using 4 bushings from the rudders to the rudder mounts,use 8. put 2 at each mounting point on your cage. that way its teflon to teflon instead of teflon to metal. it makes a huge difference. you only have to add about a 1/2 to 3/4" to the distance between mounting tabs.
 
Now theres a step forward ! I see simple cheep and easy tips like that and wonder why in all my years I never thought to do it that way. Thanks for a real good tip Cracker !

Scotty
 
I used rod ends to mount my rudders. I can tighten my rod nuts good and tight and still have silky smooth and consistent rudder movement
 
A few yrs ago (more like 20) I needed to oil the mores cables in my tower on a 42 Bertram. I had an old fire extinguisher canister ( the kind you add air pressure to with the squeeze handle) I unscrewed the top, added a tube to the bottom of the tank then after calling mores cables I mixed half and half wd40 and auto trans fluid, pumped the can to 120 lbs and adapted a hose and a clamp to whatever size cable needing to be oiled. That damn thing has probably been on every boat in town, I couldn't even tell you how many times I had to track it down when I needed it. I just had to oil my steering cable last week on the fan boat. The wd40 thins the tranny oil enough to let it get in the cables, then the wd evaporates. I never thought much of Wd40 except for thinning oil. I have never seen a can without a rusty top. just evaporates to quickly and leaves no residue. On some taller tuna towers I have had to leave the pressure on, move the cable back and forth for up to 30 minutes or more before the oil finally made it's way through. Even brand new mores or teleflex cables are supposed to be oiled but no one does it.
 
Every engine block I store, I spray it down with WD40 and cover it with a plastic bag. No rust after more than a year. It is one of the best rust preventatives on the market and that is why it has been on the market for so many years.
 
Ya'll talkin up WD-40 and I'll not argue the point for your use, but never ever spray it directly from the can onto one of your cherrished firearms. for two reasons. 1. over time it has been known to deactivate primers. This is from LEOs who have the same ammo in the gun from one range time to the next. 2. When it sprays, moisture condenses on the tip and is carried onto your firearm along with the oil. I have personally seen shotgun blueing ruined from the tiny rust pits it formed. Didnt ruin the barrel but sure ended a beautiful blueing job.

Nowdys I lube with spray silicone lube and clean with brake degreaser. If its going to be sotred over time, I coat it liberally with cold processed Linseed oil. Why moisture isn't carried with the silicone I do not know. But I have stored some of my stuff for 10 years + at times with this process and have no pits or ordinance rust coatings.

Scotty
 
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