Question about replacing stringers and rest of hull

[Tallykenj]

I am going to replace one or more stringers. One is cracked at the stern and each one has no evidence of wood where the drain holes are (the ones that allow water to pass in between stringers). Once I remove my rigging, I will have a better understanding what needs to be done. I’m prepared to do them all. I know I have to cut the stringers out. Do I have to grind and sand the whole hull in the process of refinishing or can I remove a section on each side of the stringers for new fiberglass tabs? I have no experience associated with this type of repair. I hope I can pull it off.

Any other tips and tricks will be appreciated. I have already read every forum thread involving stringers and watched a lot of YouTube videos. I’m not looking forward to the process but I know my hull will be much better when I’m done. I’ll be safer too.

Ken

 

[Slidin Gator]

I am going to replace one or more stringers. One is cracked at the stern and each one has no evidence of wood where the drain holes are (the ones that allow water to pass in between stringers). Once I remove my rigging, I will have a better understanding what needs to be done. I’m prepared to do them all. I know I have to cut the stringers out. Do I have to grind and sand the whole hull in the process of refinishing or can I remove a section on each side of the stringers for new fiberglass tabs? I have no experience associated with this type of repair. I hope I can pull it off.

Any other tips and tricks will be appreciated. I have already read every forum thread involving stringers and watched a lot of YouTube videos. I’m not looking forward to the process but I know my hull will be much better when I’m done. I’ll be safer too.

Ken

Are you convinced the stringers are bad the full length or are they just bad near the transom where those cross-drain holes are?

Local repairs can extend the life a lot with a lot less itching.

 

[Tallykenj]

Are you convinced the stringers are bad the full length or are they just bad near the transom where those cross-drain holes are?

Local repairs can extend the life a lot with a lot less itching.

I’m not sure yet. I planning on removing the rigging for a closer examination. I’m hoping for the best and planning for the worst.

 

[Slidin Gator]

I used to own an 86 Dusky, 26-foot, twin engine, tower drive with the fiberglass Dusky drive. One day coming in the inlet on a heavy day, one of the kids was sitting looking back and he said the engines were about to come off. That outdrive was big time rotten and he was right, we idled in from there. The transom was rotted out big time to match that outdrive bracket. I ordered a new aluminum gill/outdrive bracket. When I got it I set it where I wanted and drilled pilot holes through the transom to match.

Removed the gill bracket and took a 6" hole saw to the transom, centered on each hole. Then I took a screwdriver to each hole and dragged out all the rotten/water soaked wood I could get.

Then I put tape on both sides and injected the whole thing with a "superglue - methacrylic" based glue (I can find info if interested, but you got to buy a case at a time), I would have used epoxy but I had a bunch of tubes of that stuff laying around going bad. Then I put the bracket back in place and redrilled the mount holes.

That setup was big time solid when I was done, even though it was still was full of rotten wood and water, it was solid where it counted. I ran it another 10 years before selling it.

 

[Tallykenj]

Interesting. Thanks. I’ve come across similar info about penetrating epoxy.