Reduction unit conversion

[Airmallardmasher]

Can anyone tell me how difficult it we be to add a belt drive to my 15 foot Panther? Would it be worth it? I have a new 300 hp Chevy crate motor in her now. I understand that I would have to move the stand up and get a stand for a drive unit, but is there other things that would not make this a good idea? Thanks for any comments.

 

[jdotson]

In my case I was able to slide my metal work forward, rebuild the motor stand and cage. It doesn't sound like much but it was a lot of work but well worth it.

 

[Airboatcapt2]

My reccommendation would be to sell it as is and then upgrade.

You would need a new cage, engine stand or have to modify these parts.
You also need a new prop.
In most cases it is more cost effective to to sell it and then find one that is set up like you want or have it built. (you could still use your new engine)

Good Luck.

 

[c chardt]

may be build a new engine stand and cage , like faron said might be the cheapest way out. or sell all the rigging and build all new just check around for the best price.

 

[Daddy Dave]

DDChevy Panthers were the brainchild of Paul Dixon (now in Bainbridge, GA @ Airboats Unlimited) many years back. The drawback is that no DDChevy develops peak torque at or below maximum prop speed of 3,000 RPM. The belt (or gear) reduction will allow the motor to operate in the peak torque range of rpm without spinning the prop to dangerous levels. Usually, the performance increases are dramatic. Most who make the conversion wonder why it took so long to do.

Retrofitting metalworks is another issue altogether as Faron and Chris have wisely advised. Often, there are used boats on the market that offer all you seek for less money than you can build your own for.

Each re-rigging challenge is unique. Costs will differ depending on reduction gear unit choice and current metalworks condition and configuration.

A few questions to ask yourself might be: Are my current metalworks in excellent condition? Is there any signs of internal rust? Are there any stress cracks? If the answers are Yes, No and No; then it is worth considering modifying your present setup. Otherwise, invest in new metalworks and consider your materials choice based on whether or not your boat will ever be operated in salt or brackish areas.

 

[Anonymous]

The drawback is that no DDChevy develops peak torque at or below maximum prop speed of 3,000 RPM. The belt (or gear) reduction will allow the motor to operate in the peak torque range of rpm without spinning the prop to dangerous levels. Usually, the performance increases are dramatic.

Much more of the dramatic results are from the multiplication of torque rather than the RPM range adjustment.

A stock 350 with a 2:1 gear box might put near 700 ft-lbs to the prop at 3000 RPM engine speed, but never could come anywhere near this at the crank, regardless of RPM.

For sure, though, both features work together to make reduction an excellent way to go.

 

[COLD]

I agree Red! If you build an engine that has a pretty flat torque curve and can monopilse on a redction that keeps you in the range for max prop RPM at peak max torque, should be the optimum.

 

[bondsman]

now i can put my 2 cents in. after watching the jdotson caddy video it was killing me so i had to go gearbox for me all i did was move my rig 5inch.the way my motor mounts were made i just modified my adaptor plate and used the same engine stand.then support legs were made for the gearbox and a new cage.vioala! total cost less than 3 grand.

 

[jdotson]

Hey Bondsman glad the conversion went well. I'm sure you're happy with the new setup.