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ROTATOR BURPING

crowhater

crowhater

Well-known member
Everytime I change that green snott in my Rotator it will push some oil out the breather hose. My breather hose goes strait up at least 1' before it turns back down and I still pukes oil after the first time you fill it. They say it takes a full quart to fill the thing. Does anyone else have this same issue? That green oil is a big time pain to clean off your prop.
 
Waterthunder":vpkh7227 said:
1'' isn't high enough for the hose and some Rotators the narrow gear ones, use less then a quart.
Click to expand...

The hose goes up 1 foot before it loops over and points down. It burps about a shot glass of that green stuff
 
We used some gearbox vents on our Dodge speed reducers
that were not open to the outside, they had a small bladder
that allowed for expansion, but would not leak or allow
contamination to get in. they should be available through
Miller bearing, or Grainger. Don't know if they would work
in this application, but if it would you could solve two problems
at once.
 
Never happen to mine ! I got the wide gear !I think you do too!But my hose goes up to the top of my cage and turns down !Hell Bud give about 10 ft . Didnt use it all ,but got my moneys worth! I would lengthen the hose save some cleaning ! :D
 
I was just at Buds a month or so ago and picked up my new box and when I did he told me that the breather hose needed to be ran to the top of the cage. He said the fitting on the box was for 3/8 hose, take a 1 1/2" piece of 3/8 hose, put it on the fitting then slide 5/8 hose over that, clamp it and run the 5/8 hose to the top of the cage. He said it is normal for them to push the oil up the hose, that is why he suggested up sizing it to 5/8 as it's harder to push the oil up the bigger hose. I did that and it works great! I used clear braided hose from Home Depot and I can see that it does push the oil up the hose 5"-6" but NO further. Hope this helps!!
 
Using a wider hose is a good idea. I took my breather tube up 18" and bent it over like a candy cane and it still drips bue oil all over my gear drive and blows all over my prop. I don't have the option of taking it up into a prop cage because I don't have a full cage. I may have to run a long hose down into my hull and let it drip into a little pan. Either way, it isn't pleasant.
 
How often should you change the oil in your gear reduction unit......also i noticed on mine that there is a brass plug where the breather should be.... How important is it to have or have not a breather hose???

I have never had a problem with it so far?
 
REBEL ! YOU GOT A OLDER BOX THAN SOME ! YOURS HAS A HOLE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HUB ! NEWER ONES COME WITH OUT THE HOLE IN THE MIDDLE AND COMES WITH A HOSE WERE YOUR BRASS PLUG IS NOW ! IF YOU WANT A BREATHER JUST BUY A BRASS FITTING WITH A HOSE BIBB ,TO FIT WHERE YOUR PLUG GOES AND JB WELD YOUR HOLE IN THE MIDDLE ! THE REASON THEY DID THAT WAS BIGGER PROPS MORE HEAT ! JUST BETTER VENTING ! :D
 
If thats the case...Whats the brass plug for on the top of my Rotator gear reduction..... somebody had told me thats where i should but a breather hose.....

Is that wrong?...Not sure what you meant by looking in the middle of the hub...

thanks
 
Panther prefers to use Warp Drive props and with the Warp Drive the center is open so with their older Rotators they had a vent hole in the center of the hub. Well myself and many other people started running Power Shift and Senseniches on the Rotator gearboxes and had some seal leaks. About ten years ago we started removing the fill plug on-top and ran a vent hose instead and this stopped all leaks.
 
I have not had any more burps sense that one time. It happens every time I change the oil at least once.
 
The first rotator I owned started leaking from the seal. I took it to classic/Panther, they replaced the seal, put the vent hose on at the fill hole on top and I never had another problem with it. I never did plug the hole in the middle at the hub. just left it alone. It never leaked again.
 
Rebel Bud says on a brand new box change it after a hour of run time after that change the oil every 30 hours or 6 months whichever comes first. I am sure you already heard this but in case you haven't... Drain the oil after you have ran it and the box is warm and make sure you warm up the new oil before you TRY putting it in. Otherwise a 20 minute job will take days.. I just boil some water on the stove and put the quart container in there while it's boiling, suspending it off the bottom of the pot until the container is HOT. If you up size the hose like I said earlier to fill it remove the hose that goes to the top of the cage and put a short piece of scrap 6" or so then a transmission filler funnel fits in the 5/8" hose perfect and makes it a lot easier :D
 
When I had my narrow gear Rotator it was pretty bad about burping especially if you ran the engine hard but my new wide gear Rotator just pushes it up the hose about 4 or 5 inches and then it runs back into the gear box it only seems to do it if I run the engine up at higher rpm but it has never run out of the vent hose
 
Rebel you HAVE to use the oil from Classic. That is the ONLY oil that they recommend and the ONLY oil to use if you have a warranty on the box. Any other oil voids the warranty. I am sure if you looked around you could find something that would work but why risk it? They will ship it to you if your not close. There number is 800-228-7977 or email classic@classicairboats.com
 
I had the lab run a complete test on that green stuff and posted the results on the site several months back. I change my gear oil every other month. The oild is cheap and I want to make sure everything is OK.
 
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