SBC Build plannnig

[Converted]

As I mentioned I've got a 350 4-bolt truck block that I plan to build up. The kid that had it spun a rod within a week of building it. (You mean you have to check the pickup to pan clearance? ) It needs a crank and probably a rod. The pistons were new. I've got several set of rods and various other SBC parts sitting the garage

Here is decision #1.

Do I just buy a crank kit (or turn this one) for a couple hundred or do I spend more like $1k for a 383 rotating assembly.

I've also got 3 sets of stock iron heads. Two are off an HO camaro 305 and one set is the stock truck 350. I haven't cc'd 'em yet. If I use them I would do my standard benchtop mild port polish work and likely go to 2.02 and 1.60's

Weight and performance wise I'm probably better off buying some AL performance heads. I'm just trying to decide where to spend the money as the budget is somewhat limited.

General question, If I do a budget build on the 350 and end up with +/- 325HP can I get by with the same reduction/prop setup by just changing pitch when I upgrade later to a more robust 383?

Does that make any sense?

 

[Waterthunder]

Go with the 3.75 arm and build a 383! Run a roller cam with high ratio rockers to speed up the valve velocity and spring for a good set of aluminum heads this will allow you to increase your compression with out detonating your motor also set you quench (piston to head clearance) very tight. no more then .036 and no less then .028. Don't tell them numbers to other engine builders because they will say it wouldn't work and will be too tight of a piston to head tolerance. Beleive me it all works.

 

[SwampMatt]

David - look at these reduction drives:
http://www.classicairboats.com/pages/reduc.html

Note the price.

I'm shopping for one too.

The ratio helps determine what prop you'll get to a large degree.

I'm pretty sure these are good for any SBC - 350 or 383.

You may want to look at the most expensive items on your boat first (prop, reduction drive, hull), then come back to the small stuff like the heads and cam.

matt.

 

[Converted]

...also set you quench (piston to head clearance) very tight. no more then .036 and no less then .028. ...

Thanks, that's what I'm looking for. That's thinner than most head gaskets. I zero decked my last 350 build for a dirt track stock car a friend was running. It worked well but I think that was around a .038 compressed head gasket. Are you decking below zero or using something thinner?

Would you go beyond 10.5 to 1 for a hunting boat?

 

[Converted]

You may want to look at the most expensive items on your boat first (prop, reduction drive, hull), then come back to the small stuff like the heads and cam.

matt.

Yea, I hear ya. I was kinda wondering if there is enough "adjustment" in the prop to run a 325HP motor if I'm running low on funds then bump it up later to 400HP and still use the same prop and reduction drive.

 

[Olf Art]

David, one of the sweet things about the new props is that you can change the prop hub and add a blade if you need to.

olf

 

[Waterthunder]

Use a steel shim gasket you can get them down too .018 thick. Mr Gasket or GM sells them.