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seating rings
- Thread starter mwood7800
- Start date
I recieved this procedure and also was told by Jr Jernigan to run mineral oil the first 10 hrs.
I have had good luck using this procedure:
CYLINDER RUN-IN INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHANNEL CHROME,
CERMICROME, AND CERMINIL BARRELS
1] Install mineral oil in ALL normally aspirated engines and all
Teledyne Continental turbocharged engines. Install AD oil in all
Textron Lycoming turbo charged engines.
2] Start engine, run at 800 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes, shut
down, check for leaks.
3] Start engine, run at 1,000 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes,
shut down, check for leaks.
4] Cowl aircraft.
5] Start engine, run at 1,200 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes,
shut down, park into wind.
6] Start engine, run at 1,400 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes,
shut down, park into wind.
7] Start engine, run at 1,400 R.P.M.'s for five (5) minutes, run
up to full power, check all engine parameters, retard power to 1,000
R.P.M. for one (1) minute, shut down.
8] Check for leaks, return engine to service (see Engine Break-
In Instructions).
All runs should be made into the wind.
At no time during these runs should CHT exceed 350°F.
Between all engine runs, allow adequate cool off time.
Before proceeding to next run, you should be able to hold your hand
on a rear cylinder head for three to five seconds.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts
are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided
responsibly and at you own risk."
I have had good luck using this procedure:
CYLINDER RUN-IN INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHANNEL CHROME,
CERMICROME, AND CERMINIL BARRELS
1] Install mineral oil in ALL normally aspirated engines and all
Teledyne Continental turbocharged engines. Install AD oil in all
Textron Lycoming turbo charged engines.
2] Start engine, run at 800 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes, shut
down, check for leaks.
3] Start engine, run at 1,000 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes,
shut down, check for leaks.
4] Cowl aircraft.
5] Start engine, run at 1,200 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes,
shut down, park into wind.
6] Start engine, run at 1,400 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes,
shut down, park into wind.
7] Start engine, run at 1,400 R.P.M.'s for five (5) minutes, run
up to full power, check all engine parameters, retard power to 1,000
R.P.M. for one (1) minute, shut down.
8] Check for leaks, return engine to service (see Engine Break-
In Instructions).
All runs should be made into the wind.
At no time during these runs should CHT exceed 350°F.
Between all engine runs, allow adequate cool off time.
Before proceeding to next run, you should be able to hold your hand
on a rear cylinder head for three to five seconds.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts
are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided
responsibly and at you own risk."
Rich Andrews
Well-known member
For what it is worth...Gary Barber sold my brother in law an io520. We asked him how to seat the rings etc. His quote was "run the dog shit out of it" which we did! Engine runs and sounds fine.
A
Anonymous
Guest
You may be able to use one of the ring seating treatments available from the various ring MFG's.
There is one called "Quick Seat" that comes to mind. It's a lube/mild abrasive combination that is supposed to speed the seating process.
I've also heard of old racers using Comet through the carb on a running engine to seat hard rings like chrome, but this practice seems dubious to me.
It does take some hard running to seat rings. Cylinder pressure is what forces the ring to seal against the cylinder. One inportant thing to check is that you have adequete ring side clearance (on a SBC, .0015 to .002"; probably a bit more on aircooled engines) and also back clearance (behind the ring to the bottom of the ring groove). These clearances are what makes it possible for the gasses to seal the rings agains the cylinders.
There is one called "Quick Seat" that comes to mind. It's a lube/mild abrasive combination that is supposed to speed the seating process.
I've also heard of old racers using Comet through the carb on a running engine to seat hard rings like chrome, but this practice seems dubious to me.
It does take some hard running to seat rings. Cylinder pressure is what forces the ring to seal against the cylinder. One inportant thing to check is that you have adequete ring side clearance (on a SBC, .0015 to .002"; probably a bit more on aircooled engines) and also back clearance (behind the ring to the bottom of the ring groove). These clearances are what makes it possible for the gasses to seal the rings agains the cylinders.