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Shadoobie, Shattered Shattered

Slidin Gator

Well-known member
My son found a long forgotten 8" corner post last weekend, it was sitting about 8" out of the mud, disguised as weeds.

The Stones wrote a song about it.

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Slidin Gator

Well-known member
Initial impact was on the nose, between the center and first T bar to Port. This view is looking from stern towards the bow, Port to the left. It really wasn't all that dramatic because the hull gave way and ripped right down the middle of the T bar runners. No animals were injured in the making of this mess.


Split all the way from in front of the first bulkhead to halfway under the tank. No one was injured, but now we got a 8 foot long split in the hull, 16 miles from the ramp.


Split wide open.


These pictures show present status after busting out center rivets at the seam and the next stringer. We plan to score the bottom sheet along the first T bar to port and remove a 1 foot wide section. We plan to splice in a 1" x 12 foot section of 7075 aluminum. It looks like a good time to replace the poly too, once the days get hot anyway.
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Slidin Gator

Well-known member
So backing up in the story, this is why it is best to run 2 boats minimum when running unfamiliar country. We had some patching materials, but nothing to cover an 8 foot crack. I ran the 16 miles back to the ramp, headed to Lowes and bought $135 worth of stuff as follows:

1 big bottle of Gorilla Glue
2 cans of spray foam
6 rolls of "Flex Tape" (as seen on TV) (30 feet x 4") ⛄

Next I hit the gas station, 10 gallons of premium in my empty AV Gas jugs and an arm load of food & drinks, it's gonna be a long night.

In the mean time they had gotten the boat up on dry and cleaned out. We poured the Gorilla Glue over the crack and sealed it up with flex tape. Under the fuel tank, where we couldn't reach we damned it off with spray foam. The only thing I would have done different is to pack the cracks with dry grass before the glue. Let that foam up and then add a second coat with the tape. In hind sight, I also could have bought a 1/4" piece of plywood and had them rip it 1' by 8', then foam that in. Hind sight is 2020, we got out in 2021.

Gorilla Glue is awesome, and Flex Tape is the real deal. Regardless, it was a long 2 hours waiting for things to cure up enough, but when we stuck her in the water, she floated :D

Good thing we put a monster 2,000 GPH bilge pump in this boat, we idled her out 16+ miles, straight across the lakes. The wind laid down and the full moon came up, not a bad night to idle out. That pump saved the day for sure :cheers:




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Slidin Gator

Well-known member
Seven3 said:
Wow. Is this a 6061 hull?

No, these are hard metal, 7075-T6 hulls, they don't bend, but will break, just like glass. In this case it was like an airbag.

Expect more posts patching a riveted hull :salute:

Slidin Gator

Well-known member
This hull is running straight steelflex 2000, no poly. Poly probably would not have stopped the hull from cracking, but it would have limited it to an area we could have patched with my one roll of tape.

A couple of views from underneath. The Gorilla glue did a decent job of closing up a lot of the crack, some grass shoved into the cracks would have made a huge difference.




Well-known member
Ouch that’s a no bueno right there but glad y’all made it back in. Back when you could still airboat hunt fish eating creek from 27 in Palmdale to 78 in lakeport my dad and uncles used to keep a hot patch type of material that was used at the sugar mill on hand and a tarp for situations like that. They would patch the inside of the boat and then tie the tarp off onto the grass rake and then ease the boat back into the water allowing the tarp to go underneath the boat and getting on plane to make the tarp pull up tight against the hull

Slidin Gator

Well-known member
kwanjangnihm said:
Slidin Gator said:
10 gallons of premium in my empty AV Gas jugs

SG were you going to run this in your 540?

If needed yes, idle back on premium or get out and swim, I'll take the gas. The Pacemaker on the Shattered boat is wired with a switch to drop timing and it will run on CM gas. Ultimately it was insurance we didn't need, we had plenty of Blue gas.

kwanjangnihm said:
or gifting it to a CM guy if needed? :scratch:

We were the only folks we saw in our stretch of the swamp, so no takers.

Old Yeller said:
Do you think she may have made it back on a tarp, or two?

Good question and good post from the Kid. Yes, a tarp would have been a good move as we could have planned her out and made the ramp by sundown. I have never tried the tarp trick, but it's welded into my brain now. I am hopeful others will chime in with their saved the day McGivering a blown hull or other "Airboat Day" save. I am sold on the Waterproof Gorilla Tape and the glue. It foams to fill voids and is water activated.

Gorilla makes the same tape as the Flex Tape, and it's cheaper. Unfortunately Lowes only sells the Flex Tape. I considered the Flex Paste, but it said 24-48 hours to cure.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gorilla-...0001195&wl14=waterproof gorrilla tape&veh=sem
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Well-known member
That sucks, brother! Glad he is ok. Could have been bad. Hope to see you on the water before too long!

Slidin Gator

Well-known member
Years ago my son came home with a middle school science project. They had to build a bridge out of nothing but toothpicks and glue. It had to span 1 foot and was scored by (lbs it supported)/(lbs it weighed).

I read the rules, the only glue rule was no epoxy. When I went to the hardware store I looked them all over and got a bottle of Gorilla Glue, the first time I had ever heard of it, but it's a polyurethane, meets the rules :thumbleft:

The lazy kid grabbed some wax paper, wet a few toothpicks, laid them out and poured the glue all over into a rough rectangle. It foamed up into a solid, so he made 3 more and glued them together in a box tube structure. It looked like a giant booger, but held 2x 5 gallon buckets of sand plus 2 kids jumping on it. The next year the teacher specified "White School Glue." Gorilla Glue has been a go to ever since.

Thank goodness no one was injured. Great job on the patchwork there man. I carry a tarp in my boat but never would I have thought to use it for that. Great idea.

Slidin Gator

Well-known member
Making Progress. Busted out all the rivets and flipped her over.



Ran the skill saw down the middle of the runner, almost cutting through but not quite.



Thinking about putting in a glass bottom, that or screen and some Flex Seal.



Out with the old.


In with the new.


The best product review ever.



Well-known member
I agree on the review, that shit is funny as hell.

I vote glass. So the patch will run from the center line to the first T bar, all the way from the transom to a front bulkhead? I was thinking you would have to add a flange at the front but looks like no you won't. That is a wicked looking aluminum failure, shows the significant differnece between the grades of aluminum.

Slidin Gator

Well-known member
7075 is only available up to 12 feet long. This is a 14 foot hull so it was originally made by splicing in 2 feet at the bow. We are tying back into the tie plate that is already there. Note that this is a single plate running the width of the hull and sandwiched under the T bar runners.


Fitting up with self taping screws and drilling out.


Countersink the sheet for flat head rivets.


You definitely want a good countersink setup to maintain the right depth and concentricity.



Slidin Gator

Well-known member
I was originally gonna post the following repair on my hull. We completed the following repairs on a Wednesday and then went out and blew up the hull in this thread the following Saturday.

I had been getting some water in the deck over for a while, but after some time in the rocks the bilge pump seemed to be working harder. After pulling up the cargo plates, it was all obvious. There was a small hole, about 1/2" diameter that was old and looked like a rebar punch through. The newer hole was a punch through with the 7075 cracking in 4 directions. This hull has 3/8" poly. There are holes in the poly, but they closed up where the poly is still runnable.

Starting with the small hole. I beat it down with a hammer, filled it with "Ultra Black" gasket maker and added a piece of Gorilla Tape over the top. This hole repair is done.




All done with the easy one.