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Skinny Blades vs Fat Blades (MPG)

Prototype

Well-known member
Not sure if this is in the right place but I don't see a trailer section or traveling section to put it?

Anyone out there notice any mpg difference pulling your rig with skinny blades verses fat blades? Debating on setting my pitch to 90 degrees or so while traveling or switching to some skinny blades for better MPG.
 

Prototype

Well-known member
Scarecrow said:
yobee said:
Dont you have a clutch box? Let the prop spin...
There is hope for the younger generation, here is a young fella with common sense. :thumbleft: :rebel:

LOL

Maybe Yobee is young. I'm ready to retire and live on the lake LOL.

I'm just sick of fine tuning a rig and its a pig on the interstate.
 

Prototype

Well-known member
yobee said:
Dont you have a clutch box? Let the prop spin...

I did screw up once and left my line lock engaged while washing the rig down. Way too much bad attention with a spinning prop on the road not to mention liability factors.

3 s blades will suck that cardboard sign right out of them homeless dudes hands.
 

Prototype

Well-known member
Me too! But my 6.0 is dedicated to my heavy rig and my 4.0 is pulling another with the 3 s blades. Its only 12.5 feet and should easily be pulled with a 4.0 gas. I'm just questioning the wide blade prop over skinny blade props for those that notice a mpg difference?
 

Prototype

Well-known member
I have more rigs then I can keep track of sometimes, but this is specific to mpg and wide or skinny blades for MPG
 

Prototype

Well-known member
ptr34 said:
Make upside y and should be the least amount of drag


Thank You Sir!

I will give it a shot. The s blade boat has a dedicated route also but i ran it personally today again and it was a big o sow on the interstate? I personally checked Cliffs work and the trailer is dead on in every aspect with no damage anywhere! S blades?
 

cntry141iq

Silent Prop
R. I. P.
There is nothing gonna help short of a diesel truck .. the cage and wire and seats and evrything else all cause so much drag .. the seats are spoilers and cause huge downforce on your tires .. watch them in your mirror
 

Prototype

Well-known member
cntry141iq said:
There is nothing gonna help short of a diesel truck .. the cage and wire and seats and evrything else all cause so much drag .. the seats are spoilers and cause huge downforce on your tires .. watch them in your mirror

Man your getting older than me? LOL Yep Pulled my front double cause i could see the stiching through the rain covers so now i see the stiching on two singles up top through them hooked to my KR 6.0

I can burn up the interstate regardless with my ford and cliffs work but I'd like not too with my toyota and some common sense to some new tech!

I hate burning or paying for wasted fuel if I know something can do better from wind drag or actually the less of!
 

Prototype

Well-known member
helms24 said:
I noticed a big difference when I went from the 4bld r to the sabers...still a lot of drag but not as much...1 mile difference....kept up with it because my drive was from palm bay to mile marker 52 on the alley....every other weekend....by the time I got there my prop turned 3 ft crazy....


Helms

Please input some specs when you get time. Old prop and new prop on the same rig. That's what i'm looking for!

Were your new sabers the same length or ? and how many blades to make up the difference. I really can't ask the square inch difference, but i can dam well figure that out on my own if i can get some input from anyone switching from wide (fat) blades to the new, (X) (skinny s) or whatever? I guess powershift or WW has not entered that market so I'm safe in naming them as not a competitor?

Fuel consumption while traveling is major on my end. I burn a prop a month combined with all rigs!
 

DDSBC

Well-known member
If your goal is to run the blades that get you the best MPG while towing your airboat on the trailer I'm assuming you're trying to save money. If that's the goal I'd think you would save the most fuel/money by setting the airboat up with whatever prop gives you the best mpg on the water regardless of the drag while towing the boat. If you're considering turning the blades 90 degree while towing and having to repitch before putting the boat in the water then at that point just remove the prop while towing. IMHO the skinny vs fat blade for better towing mpg seems like taking a good idea, "better towing mpg" too far.
 

akblackdawg

Well-known member
I got the solution for you. Remove blades and modify blade base and your hub to where the blade will swivel back and fourth (not front to back). Then, when towing, the blades will fold down behind the motor and stand, no air resistnce. Then when you are out on the boat, let er rip. Centrifical force will hold the blades straight out and they will look real pretty. You might lose a little speed, but mileage will pick up, both for the tow rig and the boat, guarenteed. Bud
 

DIXIENOURMOUS

Well-known member
I dont see how you would gain any noticeable fuel mileage with wide blade or skinny blades or blades turned sideways or blades turned upside down you still got the rig and the seat and the cage that are there if you really feel you gotta do something about it go get a full fitted custom cover over the whole boat that will make it a solid object where air will go around it smoothly even then i doubt you'll notice anything significant
 
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