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Spark Plugs on 0540,Questions

WallyGator

Well-known member
Okay, I know that I have seen this before but I can not find it.I was told to change my oil at 20 hours and swap plugs from top to bottom.
Okay put the mineral oil in(man was that fun) and now I need to change the plugs.
So what is the gap for these plugs when I do this ?.
Is there anything else I am missing?.
Oh Also can you put that new leading edge tape on the prop over the old or do you take it off?.
Also do any of you guys run oil filters?.I understand you can add it to the motor?. and it moves the oil change to 50 hours

Thanks
 
I run Champion D-16's in my 0540 gaped at .024", to much gap and it will dive you crazy at idle unless you are running electronic ignition. Some people do not like that particular plug, but i have had good luck with them. On adverage 50 to 70 hours a set. Even then i change them just for the hell of it and not because of problems.


You can install a oil filter adapter on the 0540, but they are pretty $$$$. I change my oil every 10 to 12 hours regaurdless so it would be a waste of money for me. (Yes i am overkill sometimes)



Kevin
 
We were running D-16 on our 0-540, like kb said, same gap, we would put about 80 -100 hours on a set of plugs. Would swap top plugs to the bottom after two oil changes. This helps alittle if the rings are loose and you burn alittle oil. Doing oil changes every 25 hours. Good plug, should not have any problems.

We switched to Denso L14-U (or #5000) a while back. Same gap 0.024-0.026. They seemed to foul less if you let the boat idle alot (which we do). Main reason for switch is that the base seems rusts alittle less than Champions around salty conditions. Last time I had both Champion and Denso plugs in at the same time. Hard to find the Denso in some places.

Lycoming has some front engine mount oil filter adapters and some adapters that are mounted on the firewall. However a Lycoming filter runs between 15 and 25 bucks - OUCH. We got the adapter for hose that run to the firewall, purchased a good hydraulic filter adapter (25 buck) and get good hydraulic filters for about 3 bucks. Get some hydraulic hoses made and you are set up for 40-50 bucks. Have the oil go from the engine to the cooler to the filter and back into the engine. Lots of the time the temperatures sit around 140 while at cruise. Still changing the oil and filter at 25 hours.

Aircraft operators go alot longer between oil changes, however at few things to remember. They are not throttle jockeys, they set the throttle at one RPM and run for hours. We are revving those motors up and down, which produces more wear and tear (so I was told) on the engine. They typically have a air filter and are running through relatively clean air. Lots of us just have a flame arrestor and no real air filter, some are running bottom intakes and sucking any small bits of dust, dirt, and sand that gets into our boats into the chambers of the motor. I would either go with frequent oil changes like kb or add a filter, and still wouldn't go very long between changes.

kb - you might be overkill, but I bet you will get some hours on that engine. That is one department where overkill is not bad.

Wally - one last tip, use the silver never-seize on the threads of the spark plugs. Otherwise you will end up putting in heli-coils. Learned that the hard way.
 
Pat thanks for the tip.

Just one quick question, does the hydro oil filter you run have an internal bypass like the auto filters? The reason i ask is during the winter when the temps around here are in the 20s and 30s you can basicly scoop the aircraft oil with a spoon. Just wondering if it would pass through a filter at thoughs temps without the bypass.




Thanks, Kevin
 
KB,

I just read an aritcle in the AOPA about the outside temps and block heating. If I remember correctly Lycoming said you needed a block heater at 10 deg. and it went on to say that most people like to heat them at 20-30. Pretty interesting though.

Just as an FYI when I had mine built by Jurnigan he said oil at 25 hrs and with a filter both at 50 hrs. Spin on filter is $31.00. I run the Denso plugs as well and he now puts them in his motors.
 
Thanks I did change the plugs from top to bottom today. I do have the
d-16's in the boat. I will look into the oil lines this week.

Pat
 
cfth - Jurnigan built ours too. That $31.00 filter is the reason we had Kline install a remote filter mount that uses hydraulic filter instead of aircraft. Sometimes during the summer that would be a new filter weekly, even at 50 hours. Jurnigan talked with me about this, and made certain that the oil lines would run from the engine to the cooler to the filter. He didn't want anything (metal) that was left from the old engine that might be in the oil cooler getting into the new engine. I would have never thought it.

Kb 27 - It was my understanding that there is a vesatherm valve in the Lycomings that acts as a thermostat. It allows oil to bypass the filter until it warms up to like 120 degrees. I don't have the Lycoming manuel handy, but will look it up this evening or tomorrow. But I could be very mistaken about that comment, just trying to remember what the mechanic told me, and my mind doesn't seem to be a sharp anymore.

Wally - We used a hydraulic filter instead of an automotive filter only because we were told of cases where the higher pressure on an aircraft engine could cause an automotive filter casing to split. Could be B.S., but figuredjust to be safe. ....

pat
 
MMP-
Okay so I put the filter in after the oil cooler I use the same size lines that are going and coming to the coller now?.I will try napa for the filter and mount tommrrow. Any Idea the filter number you are running?.

Now that we have helped me with thi si have another question!!!!

I went to the poker run in Citrus county yesterday ,Way to go CCAA. Now I am a member.Got in a conversation about blades It was brought up that I change my 5 blade and change the pitch around . Put a six blade on and pitch the first blade at 7 and the rest at 5 and this would quiet my boat down. Also they were talking of a muffler that summit puts out that is a stagered inlet and outlet with a low prolife that only puts 2 psi of back pressure on the motor.

Niow i know we have this conversation here all the time but tell me waht do you guys think?.I can get anothe rblade and then all I need is a hub and fingers.

Thanks

Pat(WallY)
 
Pat, You are correct about the internal bypass in the lycoming engines. They are there to bypass the oil cooler if it were to become pluged. But if it bypasses internaly and never sends warm oil to the oil cooler and external filter they would never warm up in thoughs temps, therefore causing high oil temps.


I don't mean to doubt anyone, but i would love to put a cheap oil filter setup on my engine, but not at the cost of an overhaul. Pat if you can give me the part # of the filter you use and i will buy one and cut it open to see if it has a internal bypass.


Kevin
 
WallyGator":gc5lcvq8 said:
MMP-
I will try napa for the filter and mount tommrrow.

Part number 4759 is a hydraulic filter base with a 25 psid bypass

1759 is a 10 micron rated filter that works with this base.

A gasket is required, number 5661, and though one comes with the base, they don't come with the filter.

There are other filters that will work with this base also, depending on your desired micron rating, and whether you want paper or glass filter media. 1759 is paper, but should be cheaper than the others (I think it is more commonly used)

Red
 
4750 is another base that will work with the 1759 filter (this is a common filter on Cummins engines) and it looks like it has a flange for bolting to a flat suface (not sure from the pic if the 4759 has that)
 
ok, one more choice, which may be a better way to go is base number 4034 (has 3/4" pipe thread) and filter number 1453.

1453 has an attached gasket and is 5.1" tall so it may fit better in tight spots.

As a side note, I would get pipe-to-jic adapters for the block, and use 90 degree jic fittings on that end, and a male pipe swivel on the filter base end. I'd also use 3/8" hose, but that means you're going to have to use bushings on the base end. I guess there wouldn't be a drawback to using 1/2 hose except that it's not as flexible and it would be a little more expensive.

If anyone's in the area, I'd be happy to make some hoses for you, and I will give you a good price.
 
Kb - I thought the bypass worked until the temp hit a certain degree, then opened. But I don't really have any idea.

I know of at least one boat (0-360) that is running with a very small cooler to keep his temperatures around 180 degrees. He claimed he can run at a fast cruise without the cooler and never bump 200 degrees. And this is not oil pan temperature, this is in the block by the bypass housing.

Here are a couple of brand reference numbers for the filters I use:

WIX 51553
Car Quest 85553

Actually, I wouldn't know what the bypass inside a filter would even look like.

Mattatuck Aviation offers free classes about ever 4-6 months that teach assembly of 0-360s. I am going to make it to one of those one day and learn alot about these lycomings.
 
The NAPA number for the filter that Pat is using is 1553

BTW, all three are one in the same, made by Wix in Gastonia NC
 
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