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Stick prop to a paddle prop

AirAg

Well-known member
Thinking about changing to a paddle prop (florida airboat propeller). I have a GPU PE 90 cont with 150 hp I was told, and its now turning a sensenich stick prop (68 x 34) at 2800 RPM. I am just looking for more push and cant afford the composite props. I have a 12 ft 3/4 deck palm beach hull with 3/8 polymer. Anyone know what size prop I need, and is it worth the change?
 
:) Hi I dont want to sound like a smart a__ but on something as important and expensive as a prop ... I would call up the prop people and ask them afterall they want you happy with the prop so if they get it wrong they know you will tell everyone who will listen and if they get it right you will be verry happy and will tell everyone who will listen. so tell them you are in their hands so be gentle and get it right. Thats what I did and it worked great. :D
 
WaterLizard 8)

The problem is NOT your prop.
Rather, your problem is that you are under powered.
You are attempting to push too much weight with that little 90 Cont and 150 hp.
Look at what you have: 12 foot aluminum, 3/4 deck and 3/8 polymer. Now add in a couple of 200 pound passengers and yourself, and you have a load.
I honestly do not believe that changing props is going to help. You will be throwing your money into the prop wash.

WaterLizard 8)


Thinking about changing to a paddle prop (florida airboat propeller). I have a GPU PE 90 cont with 150 hp I was told, and its now turning a sensenich stick prop (68 x 34) at 2800 RPM. I am just looking for more push and cant afford the composite props. I have a 12 ft 3/4 deck palm beach hull with 3/8 polymer. Anyone know what size prop I need, and is it worth the change?
 
A paddle prop probably would give you some more thrust, but you will probably lose some top end. Assuming it is a riveted hull since it is a Palm Beach style, if so, it is alittle lighter than a welded hull.

Know a 11' fiberglass that had a Lycoming 0-320s turning less than 160 hp (worn out jugs) and an aluminum 12 foot riveted hull with Lycoming 0-360 in it. You have to pick your paths carefully if running ground or thick grass areas. If made a difference when a paddle prop was installed, alittle less snap, but helped. Just cannot carry more than passenger.

The fiberglass hull worked way better when that 0-540 parallel was put in it. However, they quickly learned, it didn't float as well. He He He :shock: - It became one mean cross country boat.

I would have to agree that if you are looking to really improve performance, you might consider looking for something turning at least 180 hp.

All the old timers over here have lots of respect for that GPU 90s. There were lots of plywood hulls in the 60-70s with those around here. I guess they are tough to locate now.
 
i was told by mr. combee a few years ago (when he was still in business) that 4 cyl. cranks would not support the added stress of a wide blade prop.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. The problem was I got stuck the other day in some sand/gravel and I thought I could use alittle more push. I like this little boat, goes fast enough, planes out well, and great on gas. Other than myself, I only carry one other person, and alittle gear. One more question, what about a 4 blade warp drive (68 to 70) for my application? Anyway, thanks for all the input.
 
Need to get with a local builder and ask him some question. I got with a local builder ( http://www.airboatfl.com/ ) and ask him what would be the best setup for my 14' Alum GTO with a Caddy 500 DD. Mike said right off the bat 2 blade 72X38 Power Shift. He order the prop got it in 2 days, he put it on dialed it in. Tops out at 2900 rpm and with me and a buddy loaded it will run close to 50 MPH and go anywhere I need to. Now it take a little time to get up but it's got top end.
 
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