Burnt the 383 stroker up on my boat and was wanting to rebuild it better than it was before. It has a roller cam/lifter/rocker system already on it which are still good. It also had 64cc after market iron heads which I would like to replace with aluminum. What would be a good piston/head combo to get good, reliable performance and still run pump gas?
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Stroker Heads
- Thread starter BRDWG
- Start date
Waterthunder
Well-known member
How big is your boat and what gearbox do you run? That will dictate your max compression and cylinder pressure on pump gas. Also I need to know the gearbox ratio to know how many RPM’s you will turn. I would try to run a flat top or a dish piston it depends on the rest of your boat.
Thanks for the welcome Croc... Waterthunder: I have a 15x8 alumnitech with 1/2" ptex and a cab on it so it's a little heavier than normal. The gear box is a 2:1 franklin turning a 78" two blade stump puller. I was thinking of upgrading to a 3 blade prop if my hp warrants it.
I live in Alaska so the temps are hardly ever over 80. In fact the machine shop guy who's line boring the block said aluminum heads would help with detonation when you get around the glaciers and temps drop 20-30 degrees in an instant.
I just got the boat this summer and the guy who I got it from had the motor built good with a roller system and all. I just had an oil psi line break at the sending unit and well, you can tell what happened next. And to answer your question: I was too busy shooting rapids and looking for animals to notice. I did look at it when the rpms started to fluctuate though. A little late at that point.
Thankgoodness it was on the last trip out with the meat and horns. I think some of the problem was overloading and low octane. I could only get 87 octane where I was and the motor dieseled to high hell and wouldn't shut off. Then I was running it WOT at 45-48 hundred rpms and barely able to stay on plane cause of the weight I had in it. I think the extra vibration from all of the above weakened it.
Thanks for your help.
I live in Alaska so the temps are hardly ever over 80. In fact the machine shop guy who's line boring the block said aluminum heads would help with detonation when you get around the glaciers and temps drop 20-30 degrees in an instant.
I just got the boat this summer and the guy who I got it from had the motor built good with a roller system and all. I just had an oil psi line break at the sending unit and well, you can tell what happened next. And to answer your question: I was too busy shooting rapids and looking for animals to notice. I did look at it when the rpms started to fluctuate though. A little late at that point.
Thankgoodness it was on the last trip out with the meat and horns. I think some of the problem was overloading and low octane. I could only get 87 octane where I was and the motor dieseled to high hell and wouldn't shut off. Then I was running it WOT at 45-48 hundred rpms and barely able to stay on plane cause of the weight I had in it. I think the extra vibration from all of the above weakened it.
Thanks for your help.
Waterthunder
Well-known member
That sounds like a large heavy rig you may want to consider a Big Block Chevy.
Waterthunder
Well-known member
A Big Block Chevy motor will mount up to the existing motor stand. Just hearing the term cabin or windshield tells me you need a BBC. Your boat will never truly break free so you will always have a heavy load on your motor so I'm sure the correct answer is big block. A small block will work but under YOUR conditions a small block will not be as reliable as a Big Block.