• If you log in, the ads disappear in the forum and gallery. If you need help logging in or getting registered, send request to: webmaster@southernairboat.com

Teach Me ? ? ? New Prop

cooter

Well-known member
I am having a Whirl Wind Stump Puller delivered on Friday, and need some help on things to do, and watch out for. Whirl Wind told me it shouldn't be a big project, but wanted to get a little insight, so here goes.

I found this tool on the Airboat when I bought it, and figured out it is for setting the pitch or angles of the prop.

It is a Warp Drive Tool, will it work for a Whirl Wind ? ? ?

What else will I need ? ? ? (I Have a Level & Torgue Wrench)

How to read the Tool ? ? ?

Any tidbits that will make life easier would be great... Things to watch out for, and make sure happens...

I would like to get it right the first time. cooter

100_1277.jpg


100_1275.jpg


100_1279.jpg


100_1278.jpg
 
Yes you can use it for your prop. The only other tools you will need are the wrenchs for the prop. The Torgue Wrench is a must so you will need sockets.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
If you have room put the blades and hub together and then install on the motor tighten but don't torque them down yet.

You need to zero out the bubble by placing the tool on the end of the hub and then zero it out

find a place on the outside of the cage and so you can put each blade in the same spot.

Now when I put my Whirl Wind on I used the marks on the hub to get where I wanted to run my motor (22 mark @ 4500rpm) and then use the dial to fine tune it

You'll need to set one blade for a set mark and then use that to set the rest of the blades

You can call the 800 number on the dial and they will fax or email you on how to use it.
 
unless it is a whirlwind psr blade it should be easy if it is a psr get ready to scratch your head read a bunch of old posts and guess some more.
 
It is really easy. Dont get hung up on what the degree wheel says as compared to the hub marks. They will probably not be the same number, just make sure all the blades are set the same and run it and if you need more or less then adjust it again until you get it where your boat runs best.
 
I have a 2 blade stump puller. The marks on the hub are pretty darn close if not right on. I set it at 15 like they said and ran up the engine. Then add pitch to bring the rpm down and less pitch to raise rpm. I run mine at 2600 rpm set at 18 on the etched mark (2nd mark on blade) I just make sure the trailing edges are the same measurement from the same spot on my chage using a tape measure. There was talk of clamping a wire to the transom when setting which to me would be a million times more accurate than my tape measure method but I don't have any noticeable vibrations so I'm not too concerned with it.

It is definately a whole lot easier than it first seems. I did put my prop together before I bolted to the engine but I have a 2-blade so it was no different than bolting on a wood prop.
 
bondsman I have the psr blades and don`t have any trouble.What kind of problems did you have?Is there something i should know about?
 
i got my blades over a year ago they had no referance marks in the blades to give me a starting point .they told me to just set them like the powershift except you have to find a place to start.i was just hoping i didnt have to buy a protractor but had to do it that way not as bad as a 10 blade warp drive to set but they could have designed it then alittle better with the marks, but i love the push of it i finally got tired of the protractor way of setting it i just pitched it till i got the rpm's i wanted.
 
10-4,I already had a protractor from my warpdrive.Thought there mite be a problem with the blades breaking,I`ve got less than 5 hours on my blades and would be mad if they wer braking like the powershifts :evil:
 
I HAVE A 3 BLADE PSR 78 AND HUB MY DAD HAD .I DIDN'T HAVE MARKS ON THE BLADES OR THE HUB AND HAD A FIT TRING TO ADJUST THEM.
 
I HAVE A 3 BLADE PSR 78 AND HUB MY DAD HAD .I DIDN'T HAVE MARKS ON THE BLADES OR THE HUB AND HAD A FIT TRING TO ADJUST THEM.
 
Smart levels are a lot cheaper than that tool from Grainger. Some times you can find them at Home Depot, Lowes, and other home improvement stores.
 
barhopper,

If I'm not mistaken the "smart level" that Wallyworld sells does not have the option of "alternate zero". Very important feature of this tool that enables you to use the block/crank/gearbox to find within .001 difference in pitch!

Basketcase
 
Back
Top