blackpowderscout
Well-known member
This new boat I've got has Teleflex steering. I've only had dogleg steering before. Is there any maintenance to keep track of with the teleflex????
Adam
Adam
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Teleflex Maintenance????
- Thread starter blackpowderscout
- Start date
SwampMatt
Well-known member
I was told by Dave at Alumitech when I bought my teleflex cable that you never need to oil it.
He emphisized that strongly.... telling me that lots of people ruin their cable by oiling it. IT DOES NOT NEED OIL.
It also said that on the box it came in.
Now, this was not a steering cable, it was the smaller teleflex brand cable - for the throttle. I don't know if the same rules apply as to the large steering cables.
matt.
He emphisized that strongly.... telling me that lots of people ruin their cable by oiling it. IT DOES NOT NEED OIL.
It also said that on the box it came in.
Now, this was not a steering cable, it was the smaller teleflex brand cable - for the throttle. I don't know if the same rules apply as to the large steering cables.
matt.
basketcase0302
Well-known member
I spray mine with lithium grease at the ends as a water dispersant.
Basketcase
Basketcase
Rich Andrews
Well-known member
sometimes when I have a pinger left in the can, I'll dump it on my teleflex.Only if it is warm.
jdotson
Well-known member
I have used a piece of fuel line clamped over the end, filled with Blaster, and forced through with air to lubricate and clean the cable. It worked well but I only did this once the cable started to stiffen up. The seals were no longer sealing and water was getting in the cable. The throttle freed up instantly. I've seen this technique posted on here somewhere before so I can only say it works and will not take credit for the idea. 
hers an old post
A few yrs ago (more like 20) I needed to oil the mores cables in my tower on a 42 Bertram. I had an old fire extinguisher canister ( the kind you add air pressure to with the squeeze handle) I unscrewed the top, added a tube to the bottom of the tank then after calling mores cables I mixed half and half wd40 and auto trans fluid, pumped the can to 120 lbs and adapted a hose and a clamp to whatever size cable needing to be oiled. That damn thing has probably been on every boat in town, I couldn't even tell you how many times I had to track it down when I needed it. I just had to oil my steering cable last week on the fan boat. The wd40 thins the tranny oil enough to let it get in the cables, then the wd evaporates. I never thought much of Wd40 except for thinning oil. I have never seen a can without a rusty top. just evaporates to quickly and leaves no residue. On some taller tuna towers I have had to leave the pressure on, move the cable back and forth for up to 30 minutes or more before the oil finally made it's way through. Even brand new mores or teleflex cables are supposed to be oiled but no one does it.
A few yrs ago (more like 20) I needed to oil the mores cables in my tower on a 42 Bertram. I had an old fire extinguisher canister ( the kind you add air pressure to with the squeeze handle) I unscrewed the top, added a tube to the bottom of the tank then after calling mores cables I mixed half and half wd40 and auto trans fluid, pumped the can to 120 lbs and adapted a hose and a clamp to whatever size cable needing to be oiled. That damn thing has probably been on every boat in town, I couldn't even tell you how many times I had to track it down when I needed it. I just had to oil my steering cable last week on the fan boat. The wd40 thins the tranny oil enough to let it get in the cables, then the wd evaporates. I never thought much of Wd40 except for thinning oil. I have never seen a can without a rusty top. just evaporates to quickly and leaves no residue. On some taller tuna towers I have had to leave the pressure on, move the cable back and forth for up to 30 minutes or more before the oil finally made it's way through. Even brand new mores or teleflex cables are supposed to be oiled but no one does it.
Years ago the cables that come in the Mercruiser outdrives (and probably others) had grease fittings on them. A grease gun can develop 10,000 psi. It was easy for a shade tree mechanic to either burst the cable or force the end fitting off.
The manufacturer got tired of that routine and took the fittings off. That made the cable cheaper to make and also sold more cables as they froze up. It was a smart business move.
jim
The manufacturer got tired of that routine and took the fittings off. That made the cable cheaper to make and also sold more cables as they froze up. It was a smart business move.
jim
This is how to lube an outboard cable if that helps:
http://www.davisnet.com/product_documents/marine/manuals/420CblBudENGL.PDF#search="cable buddy"
jim
http://www.davisnet.com/product_documents/marine/manuals/420CblBudENGL.PDF#search="cable buddy"
jim
blackpowderscout
Well-known member
My steering cable has fittings, I just didn't know what sort of stuff I needed to do.
Adam
Adam
If I sold steering cables I to would tell you not to lube them,
just call me and I'll send you another when it gets stiff.
Over the past twenty some years I have changed hundreds of
this type cables on concrete mixer trucks, now this is one of
the most abusive enviroments I think you can put them through
and found that by lubricating them I could double their lifespan.
Remove ( carefully ) the seal on each end, attatch a piece of
5/8'' air hose ( size may vary ) to the threaded part of your cable
end and secure with a worm gear clamp, the hose should be long
enough to clear the end of the rod by 1 or 2 '' and to this end
of the hose attatch a male quick change connecter with another
clamp. It does not take very much oil maybe one or two oz.
put the oil in the quick change connecter, and apply shop air,
now I run about 125 psi and have never blown one up, but if
you want to use a regulater and apply pressure as needed to
push the oil through. I used all kinds of oil, blaster, wd40, ATF
engine oil and any thing else I could find but I found that a
silicone based lube seemed to last the longest.
KEVIN.
just call me and I'll send you another when it gets stiff.
Over the past twenty some years I have changed hundreds of
this type cables on concrete mixer trucks, now this is one of
the most abusive enviroments I think you can put them through
and found that by lubricating them I could double their lifespan.
Remove ( carefully ) the seal on each end, attatch a piece of
5/8'' air hose ( size may vary ) to the threaded part of your cable
end and secure with a worm gear clamp, the hose should be long
enough to clear the end of the rod by 1 or 2 '' and to this end
of the hose attatch a male quick change connecter with another
clamp. It does not take very much oil maybe one or two oz.
put the oil in the quick change connecter, and apply shop air,
now I run about 125 psi and have never blown one up, but if
you want to use a regulater and apply pressure as needed to
push the oil through. I used all kinds of oil, blaster, wd40, ATF
engine oil and any thing else I could find but I found that a
silicone based lube seemed to last the longest.
KEVIN.