• If you log in, the ads disappear in the forum and gallery. If you need help logging in or getting registered, send request to: webmaster@southernairboat.com

the good and the bad, first ac engine.

Too much to read through to get your location, I suggest pulling the 2 wheezy cylinders, note each one's position for reassembly, visually inspect ring lands, take each cylinder, turn them with ports facing upward, pour mineral spirits into one port at a time, note for leakage into cylinder, this will certify your problem, now, once you find the leaking seats, contact local FBO to find an overhaul shop, have them reface valves and seats, reassemble to noted position on engine, will walk you through valve lash check.
 
Special tools to take off cylinder ordered. Couldnt find oil filter local, its ordered. Marvel mystery oil added, and boat ran for an hour +. Dam, if i get her running right im going to have to invest in 4pt harness. :toothy7: Cruises great at 1600-1900 rpm, top still under 2500 rpm. :dontknow: With calmer winds (below 15 mph), single rudder/air foil handles great. Gator, looking forward to day i see how single rudder handles on dry, but 30 + cross wind, she’s a bi———hand full. Doing some searching, seems narrow deck 540 cylinders are a bit hard to find. Would like to get one and have it ready to swap if needed. Found one for $275 with shipping, good or bad idea , and hows the price. Like the mineral spirits idea, sounds fool proof. Thanks.
 
$275 is WAY to good to be true. I can tell you right now that Lycoming cylinders (atleast quality ones) are about 57 weeks out right now, that's from one of the largest aircraft suppliers in the country. Narrow Deck cylinders are a pain in the ass as it is to find, with all of the material shortages its gotten really bad.
 
This is a used cylinder, guaranteed good. Any-one have a suggestion on someone good and reasonable priced to send it to to be reworked. Plan on keeping boat long time, and just makes sense to have extra one handy. I know nothing about what has been done to current engine, compression, oversize pistons, how long since overhaul. Want to get rhe worst one, #2 taken care of and then work on #3 & #4. Any Ideas.
 
Not saying this is “your” best path, but I would confirm #2 exhaust leak, pull it, use a spring compressor to pull the valves, get some valve grinding compound and clean up the likely pits on then put it all back together. Tune up the valve lash and see how she checks out.

If that fails to work out, i’d swap engines and send all the cylinders now on this boat out for refurbishment (it will take some time for sure). Eventually you will have 6 spares plus a spare case/crank.

For the same reason I’m still running $2.85/gallon 100LL (because I stocked up this spring) I’d also buy that $275 cylinder, can’t have enough narrow deck cylinder spares. Most cylinders that are not cracked or welded around the exhaust are serviceable or repairable.
 
Up date: Old post, Oct 21, 2021. I’m older, boat is older and boat has just been sitting, except for me or others turning prop many rotations fairly regular and cranking with battery regularly at beginning and less now as health spiraled. Never got boat running properly, haven’t used it, engine may be beyond repair (still have extra engine in barn in dry climate), looking forward to working on it, and again hoping for and looking forward to help and advice.
Reason for departure, polycystic kidney deasease. I spiraled down. I’ll skip all the drama and get to the results.
Two alien eggs were removed from me (both kidneys) and on hemo dialysis to keep alive till a new/used kidney installed 2 1/2 weeks ago. (Normal kidneys are the size of your fist, these were the size of footballs and growing, thus the removal of both.
I’M BACK!
Hopefully I/we can perform another miracle, and revive the boat. Getting stronger every day, and look forward to learning more about aircraft engines. Thanks for all the previous help, and sorry for just fading away.
At this point how should I start. My thought are: marvel mystery oil in all plug holes. Let sit for a few days with plugs in. Remove plugs and wiggle back and forth moving more each time by hand. Then change oil and filter, get new battery, see if it will crank, (not likely), repair or replace what needs replacing (switches, wires, whatever) get it to crank. Replace fuel. Can I use starting fluid to confirm ignition? Replace fuel etc… Also keep fingers crossed.:giggle:
 

Attachments

  • 5F8CA0F0-318F-4EEE-B9DA-8DDDF40921A2.png
    5F8CA0F0-318F-4EEE-B9DA-8DDDF40921A2.png
    647.5 KB · Views: 9
Follow the plan from 2021. You got it all written down. If you are asking what to do before trying to start it, a shot of WD40 into each cylinder never hurts. It ran 3 years ago, if it doesn't now it's because it sat outside in the rain for 3 years and might have water in the fuel and/or the mags.
 
Back
Top