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Tuning Chevy's????

BluCreek

Member
Howdy all
SA newbie here,
I was wondering what/how you can tune a LS1 series motor on a Airboat ??
Do/Can you use a stock PCM?
I am a Pipeline Welder, who has picked up the art of LS1 tuning along the way(Long 2yr chassis Dyno story) through the stock PCM.
I live on the Elk River in WV, and interested in building a LS1 boat. So I reg. this site to get myself up to date.
 
BluCreek, take a look at the new video entitled "Too rough for my camera". Same guy Plum told you about doing engine testing.

Nobody I know has devoted himself to the LS-2 like Thunder. He can make 'em dance.

olf
 
If I can help at all let me know. I could probably save you a bunch of grief and time! I just helped a guy in Texas make all the need conversions with his stock LS1.
 
There will be some issues you gotta keep the water temp down around 160deg and a stock ECU doesn't like that. You can have it burned and that will work. I have done motors for cars that people have done that but everything I do with airboats has a stand alone fully programmable system! Is your airdoor fly by wire or cable!
 
So starting w/ a stock PCM I can aadjust or change all related ECT tables to accommodate heads, cam, turbo's ect. Make idle adjustments WOT ect. Would have to figure out how to delete/disable the Transmission. I'm just thinking that for someone like myself up here, if I can have the option of adjusting and changing myself, I would be far ahead.

Also need to look at "skid plate" options.[/img]
 
In the long run I believe a stand alone system will be better, here is why. 1st I have never heard of anybody burning a chip for an airboat in other word nobody really has any experience at it or have an idea what tune they need. Second everytime you need to adjust or change your tune up you gotta send your chip back to get it burnt!
 
Dave's givin some great advice here. Even in a car application nobody really messes with burning chips. You can get LS1 Edit or HP Tuners to piggyback, but by the time you spend the money on that and clean up the factory harness, possibly gettin screwed up with interchangability of CPS and Crank Triggers etc, you would have been light years ahead with one of Dave's systems. JMO

Felber
 
Not trying to go against the current here but, If I can totally control the motor myself wether it be a stand alone or stock PCM, I just want to be able to control it myself. But in the end I would have control over the same parameters w/ a standalone as I would a stock PCM. And seeing how I have free access to any V8 GM Truck or SUV 99-07.
 
Hey thunder, quick question.

What the reason behind keeping the water temp around 160? I know that the airboat setup runs a lot harder and spend much more time at higher rpms. This of course generates a much larger amount of heat that needs to be dissipated, however, if the radiator is up to the task, why not run at 180, 190, etc? Does the lower temp keep detonation at bay?
 
Airboats put more heat in a combustion chamber quicker then about any-other type of use! If you set an airboat up to run at 180 or 190 and you can't run the hill long before it creeps up to 220. Or if you grind on it hard you will burn it up before the cooling system can even start removing the heat from the chambers! Most all engine builders will tell you to run 180 or up to make power but any serious airboat engine builder will tell you to run 150 to 160! It's not how much heat the radiator can transfer because when at 180 when you run dry or grind it hard by the time the heat has transferred from the combustion chamber to the cooling system you already hurt the motor!
 
Waterthunder":3pqwgpap said:
Airboats put more heat in a combustion chamber quicker then about any-other type of use! If you set an airboat up to run at 180 or 190 and you can't run the hill long before it creeps up to 220. Or if you grind on it hard you will burn it up before the cooling system can even start removing the heat from the chambers! Most all engine builders will tell you to run 180 or up to make power but any serious airboat engine builder will tell you to run 150 to 160! It's not how much heat the radiator can transfer because when at 180 when you run dry or grind it hard by the time the heat has transferred from the combustion chamber to the cooling system you already hurt the motor!


I have always wondered about 160 degrees as well. Thanks for an excellent explaination!
 
Thanks for clearing that up. Followup question: I see on your web site you offer a restrictor plate for the LS1 that is designed to keep the temperatures around 160. I understand that this device serves two purposes: 1. block off the bypass and 2: control the engine temp.

Should you use the same restrictor plate with a stock factory water pump as well as aftermartket eletric water pump? I like the idea of using an electric water pump b/c as you've mentioned before, you can shut the engine down and still keep the water circulating to help it cool down.
 
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