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What type of oil is most popular to run?

L

lil_armond

Well-known member
I was just wondering what type of oil is most popular in the airboater world. I use royal purple; does any one have an opinion on it.
 
Faron,

How often do you change your oil and filter? I was told about every 20 hours or so. Does that sound right to you?
 
If your already useing Royal Purple you are alredy useing the best $ can buy. I run it in my 4 stroke outboards, Mudbuddys, pickup and my 454 in the airboat. Thier biggest market is the industrial market plants refineries etc.. which speaks highly for Royal Purple. Awesome lubricants!!!!!
 
First your engine needs to break in. Check with man. for recommendations on their engine.

We do not change the oil first time until 25-50 hrs. Engine needs to break in. Then every 25hrs after that.
 
lil_armond":1mr0mh35 said:
Faron,

How often do you change your oil and filter? I was told about every 20 hours or so. Does that sound right to you?
Click to expand...
With the Royal Purple you can go 50 hours with ease before a change... If you call them they will send you an oil kit to send in a sample at the oil change to check vescosity breakdown etc and that will tell you how far you can take it. They have done this for me in the past with no charge.
 
I like Shell Rotella 'T' ..... buy it at Sam's or Tractor Supply. Several months ago the major oil companies took zinc out of their oils to satisify an EPA regulation that came into effect this year. Zinc is an essential ingredient to protect against shearing forces so it has real beneficial qualities to protect against cam and lifter wear in a car motor.

Because Rotella 'T' is formulated for commercial fleet operation it still contains zinc. I like it in 15W-40 for the boat .... 10W-30 for the car and truck. AeroShell for the A/C engines.
 
Thanks Olf Art thats good info to know. I really don't know how all these re-formulation's with oil and fuel are going to work out. I drive a Cummins Diesel beacuse i wanted it to last me 700k + but now the oil companies are required to have no more than 5 parts per million. On some Diesel pumps they have old warning stickers that say not to use under 500 ppm for engines. Now i wonder how this will effect all the Diesel truck life as compared to old.
 
Thanks for the input on Royal Purple Loco Pato. I own my own business and we sell supplies to refinerys and contractors, that is where i became familiar with Royal Purple and it is the only thing the plants will run in their rotating equipment. If you could i would like the info on having them do viscosity check for me, you learn something new every day.

I pay a little over $4 per quart down here, i get it from one of my old customers.
 
With any new engine I like to make an oil filter change pretty soon after I've started running it. In a new engine there are all kinds of contaminants that are washed out in the first couple of hours .... things like metal shavings from machining, excess sealants, early wear from the seating of new bearings, shavings off of rings that are seating, paint, assembly lube, etc. The first couple of hours are, in my opinion, critical because it's a wash-down for the inside of a new motor.

I run a new one a couple of hours and then replace the filter. Then at about 10 hrs. I change the oil and filter, again. After that you can drop into a pattern of regular changes.

Don't use synthetics before an engine has had a chance to breakin.
 
I have used Rotella T in my cadillac engine for quite a while. The cadillac forum I post on switched me to the Rotella. Recently I have noticed the cadillac forum is big on Delo 400 as the Rotella seems to drop oil pressure at idle after heating up. I have since switched to Delo and have noticed higher oil pressure over the Rotella when idling around with well warmed engine. Just another $.02. The part about the zinc is true and Delo has it too. I think any engine oil rated for diesels will have zinc.
 
Jdotson, that's a biggie ..... more stabile after it's warm. I hadn't heard that. I first heard what I had posted about the zinc and about Rotella one day when I was on the phone with one of the reps up at Comp Cams in Memphis.

We got to talkin while he was workin up my order and found out we had known a couple of the same people over the years. He said that Comp strongly recommends Rotella 'T' because of the zinc content.

On the Gold Wing websites a lot of those folks there also recommend it. Evidently it makes a bikes transmission shift smoother, and maybe it's because of the zinc ...... higher sheer strength.

The only down I've ever heard about Chevron is that it has a high ash content, but those things constantly change. It may be the best right now. The big one in my mind is to keep it clean whatever you use.
 
Airboatcapt2":1mn922i8 said:
First your engine needs to break in. Check with man. for recommendations on their engine.

We do not change the oil first time until 25-50 hrs. Engine needs to break in. Then every 25hrs after that.
Click to expand...
and of course never introduce a synthetic until the mfg reccomended break in peroid is over...
 
well I'm in the same boat with jdotson , flat tappet cam with delo 400 used to use rottela t ,Ifin I had me a roller cam than I guess I would use something else.
 
well I'm in the same boat with jdotson , flat tappet cam with delo 400 used to use rottela t ,Ifin I had me a roller cam than I guess I might would use something else.
 
Chevron reps will tell you that their chemical package they add to crude
oil to make DELO400 is the best in the industry. They will also tell you
that everybody purchases the same crude oil and what makes the difference is quality of the chem. pkg..

We used to use and sell Delo products and then switched to Rotella.
The off road guys(marine DETROIT 2-stroke) swear by DELO100. We lost that business by switching to SHELL.

What I know was then when diesel high pressure fuel rail systems
first started SHELL would foam under the pressure and DELO
would not. People would develop a miss, change their oil and the miss
would go away. Not that it solved the issues with HUEI engines but SHELL resolved the problem with Rotella-T. Anybody familiar with HUEI
knows what that's about.

I believe if change your oil in the recommended intervals it doesn't matter
the brand.

For what it's worth...my $.015
 
Sounds like either Delo or Rotella are the top of the line right now, and for the same reasons ... high shear resistence. I'm sure either one will do you a fine job if you keep it clean.

I personally am not a big fan of synthetics. I know the Indy and Formula 1 teams run them, but the requirements for those engines are completely different from the engines we all run, and that includes both A/C, car motor, and the vehicles we drive. Our motors live in a high shear, pushrod world where engines have to be able to idle and also make power, but maybe only at around 3500 rpm.

A Honda F-1 engine may idle at nearly 6,000 rpm, and is perfectly happy at 16,000 rpm, but they run two 2-stage oil pumps, dry sump, and over 120 psi. oil pressure. There is no shear .... they're born to spin. One of them wouldn't live 20 minutes in our environment.

Oil is the life blood of an engine, but oils, like engines, are engineered for specific uses. We're all more like tractors than we are Indy cars.
 
i use to use rotella t in my 7.3 but when i would get to low on oil i mean 5 quarts i dont need a lecture about the quantity you can just laugh, it would cause my injectors not to pop but the dello would stay smooth running. now i run dello 400 in all my vehicles including the airboat.
 
There you go ..... another vote for Delo 400. I might have to switch.

I do think Chevron has the best pump gas out there. That Techron works.
 
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