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What's the valve lash in a PE90?
- Thread starter FP1201
- Start date
speed wheelie
Well-known member
valve to rocker clearance (operating) 0
Valve to rocker clearance (lifters deflated) .030-.110
Valve to rocker clearance (lifters deflated) .030-.110
I was hopeing that you'd chime in.speed wheelie":248duxw2 said:
I've another question:
When I asked before what the oil capacity was for the PE90 the response was "8 quart" That said, the dip-stick has more markes than a tide stick with paint, scratches, writing,...
Should I stick with 8 quart?
Becasue of the depth of the pan and others have suggested that the true capacity is 12qts. Is it an issue to add additional oil in anticipation of long/hard runs?
BTW: most of the oil is going out the vent tube....I suppose an oil seperator is the next step in control. (few drips & a little blue smoke from one side, but not too bad)
Des Moines Boater
Well-known member
I had the exact same thing after I replaced two cylinders on my PE-150. The lifter for the intake valve on one cylinder was defective. The valve springs for the new cylinders must have had more resistance than the old cylinder. The pinging noise was only noticeable below 1000 rpm. At high rpms the lifter is getting more oil and will stay inflated. It was a pain but I replaced the lifter with a spare I had and the problem went away. I wasn't able to get the clip back in the cam follower, but I plan an overhaul this winter.
I also had the same problem on the oil dip stick when I got the boat. Lots of marks. I kept it full to the mark the oil was at when I got it. A few hours later I drained it and found I was only running on 4 quarts in the sump. Installed a sight gauge and marked the oil level for each quart I put in after 5 quarts. So, I have a 5, 6, 7 and 8 quart mark. I run it at 8 quarts but it holds 12. I have a bad O-ring on my oil pickup tube and anything over 7 quarts allows oil to seep out onto my fuel tank. I'll fix that this winter too.
I had a spare oil separator I installed to see how much oil I could collect from that being vented overboard. I was using 2 quarts an hour or more before I replaced the cylinders. I was able to recover about half the oil with the oil separator. I just drained the oil from the separator back into a quart bottle and poured it back into the engine.
After I replaced the two cylinders with chrome ones from Tom Jeffords my oil consumption is down to less than a quart in 4 hours. Tom also has the oil separators at a great price. If you get one you should plan on it only recovering half the oil that is vented. The real fix is to get the cylinders fixed so you don't over pressurize the crankcase in the first place.
I also had the same problem on the oil dip stick when I got the boat. Lots of marks. I kept it full to the mark the oil was at when I got it. A few hours later I drained it and found I was only running on 4 quarts in the sump. Installed a sight gauge and marked the oil level for each quart I put in after 5 quarts. So, I have a 5, 6, 7 and 8 quart mark. I run it at 8 quarts but it holds 12. I have a bad O-ring on my oil pickup tube and anything over 7 quarts allows oil to seep out onto my fuel tank. I'll fix that this winter too.
I had a spare oil separator I installed to see how much oil I could collect from that being vented overboard. I was using 2 quarts an hour or more before I replaced the cylinders. I was able to recover about half the oil with the oil separator. I just drained the oil from the separator back into a quart bottle and poured it back into the engine.
After I replaced the two cylinders with chrome ones from Tom Jeffords my oil consumption is down to less than a quart in 4 hours. Tom also has the oil separators at a great price. If you get one you should plan on it only recovering half the oil that is vented. The real fix is to get the cylinders fixed so you don't over pressurize the crankcase in the first place.
Des Moines Boater":2qw2j84h said:
Once again it sounds as though the only diffrence between our engines is 4cyl. vs 6cyl. :lol:
Where/what did you use for a "sight gauge"? I've got a couple commercial referigeration sight gauges (1/2" & 3/8") but there's only a 3/4" glass window and they are heavy....we use a very nice sight gauge on the transmisions that we rebuild and dyno, but it's too tall and IIRC it was VERY expensive!
I thought about using a 3/8" barbed fitting screwed onto an elbow with a lenght of plastic tubing for a gauge, but that seemed kinda cheesy....maby not.
Des Moines Boater
Well-known member
What do you mean cheesy? That's exactly what I used. I pulled out the old thermal sensor off the bottom of the oil pan and replaced it with a 1/8th pipe fitting with a 5/16th barb. I ran a clear hose from it to another 3/8th pipe fitting to the place where the dipstick went in. Because the oil goes above the dipstick fitting I needed to add a vent to get a reading. I finally plugged the dipstick hole and ran the tube to a higher area on the accessory case above the oil level. The tubing is tied to a leg on the engine stand and I marked it for the different oil levels. Mine is marked for 5 quarts, 6, 7, and 8. I run it at 8 quarts even though it holds 12 total. I have a bad O-ring on my pickup tube and anything above 7 quarts leaks onto my fuel tank. I have to pull the sump to fix it which I'll do this winter.
I saw a picture of one that had nice clean oil in the sight tube. Made me jealous because my clean oil gets black in a hurry.
I saw a picture of one that had nice clean oil in the sight tube. Made me jealous because my clean oil gets black in a hurry.
goldhunter_2
Well-known member
as long as it works who cares
Des Moines Boater
Well-known member
Yes sir, that is it. At the oil level in the picture it looks like he has 6 quarts of oil in the sump. It sure is a nice looking set up. If he had 10 to 12 quarts the level would actually be above the lower sump.
Also, I used straight fittings with a barb end but a 90 degree fitting would work as well and perhaps look better. It sure beats a dip stick. I instantly know how much oil I have with this set up.
Also, I used straight fittings with a barb end but a 90 degree fitting would work as well and perhaps look better. It sure beats a dip stick. I instantly know how much oil I have with this set up.
Well that was what I was thinking, but wasn't too sure if it would hold up or be problimatic. There are three pipe threaded hole on the bottom/sides of the sump, plus a drain on the bottom: Everything that's needed is in the garage except for a 3/4" pipe to 1/2" pipe bushing and one can pick one up at the hardware store tomorrow.
Best place would be the left side because it's got fewer curves/obstructions.
That's what I'll do, especially since I broke the dip-stick off at the handle about an hour ago. :roll:
Since the dip-stick tube won't be needed, we'll take it out and plug the hole.
The pisser to all this is I just changed the oil (that's what I was doing when the dip stick broke) and had marked the stick with a numbering stamp, then it snapped when putting it back in. CRAP!
We'll take pictures so you guys can critique the work. :wink:
Best place would be the left side because it's got fewer curves/obstructions.
That's what I'll do, especially since I broke the dip-stick off at the handle about an hour ago. :roll:
Since the dip-stick tube won't be needed, we'll take it out and plug the hole.
The pisser to all this is I just changed the oil (that's what I was doing when the dip stick broke) and had marked the stick with a numbering stamp, then it snapped when putting it back in. CRAP!
We'll take pictures so you guys can critique the work. :wink:
Here's how it turned out...was going to put it on the left side, but the plug wouldn't budge so it went on the right. Quick & easy, just wasn't too sure if it would hold up...There's 10qts of oil in it and about three gets sucked up into the engine when it starts running, so when you're down to ~4qts only 1 is available to refresh the engine :shock:
Des Moines Boater
Well-known member
Great pictures. That looks like a big tube. What is the thing at the top? I ran my top tube back into the accessory case to vent it. Without the vent it didn't read correctly. Yours doesn't look like it could possibly have ten quarts in the sump. It should be much higher unless it doesn't show because it's not vented. Looks good though.
That is a vent valve on top and it's 1/2" hose. The vent itself has a 1/4"-28 hollow shaft. Inside is a flatg asket held down by the weight of a brass piece on top. Easily lets air out, while restricting any air comeing back in. If it doesn't work, I'll just replace the hose and vent it to the oil filler tube.Des Moines Boater":2bzyqye4 said:
Also it's got 10 qts in it, just hadn't palced the zip tie on yet to mark it. After starting it on 8 qts and seeing how far it dropped plus what it consumes in a day I decided to try 10 to see what happens. 8)
goldhunter_2
Well-known member
looks good I just did mine similar but the top returns in the top on the oil pan so no restriction. Only thing I don't like /trust is the zip ties they look great now but would be afraid they would move in time so instead I am painting small lines on the tank right behind the tube to be more permanent
Des Moines Boater
Well-known member
I used 5/16 tubing but 1/2 inch looks good. I still think that plug at the top could keep it from venting to show an accurate reading. I vented mine back into the accessory case by putting a barb fitting in the mag cover where the left mag would go. If your works then that's great. It sure beats a dipstick. I agree with goldhunter about the plastic ties moving but you'll figure it out. Good work.
Somewhere I've got some paint pens (like the ones that salvage yards use) Painting lines would be much better than zip-ties. One thing on the ties: becasue the tubing is large, they can compress a bit without restricting the oil.goldhunter_2":yqxs17gh said:
The vent will open with normal breathing pressure. It looks big inside the hose becasue a plug was drilled & tapped to screw it into. I'm still going to watch it close, and if it's a problem there's a 1/8" pipe nipple that was brazed into the side of the oil filler tube; just another lenght of hose (which is cheap) 8)